Cant get the ignition cylinder out *** Possible cylinder Short *** 96 Ranger 3.0L AT

[98v70dad]

I think my ignition key cylinder might be the source of the short I've been having. If its not the source of my short its broken anyhow. It jams, keeps ringing when I remove the key and has been doing it for several years. I thought maybe a piece of metal broke off the cylinder causing those problems. So, I figured I would remove the cylinder and see if its damaged. The thing won't come loose. I've watched how to get it out in several youtube videos but it seems that whatever is broken loose is covering the hole the push pin is supposed to be pushed into. I cant get whatever is in there to move.

Is there a trick to getting the cylinder out when this happens? I spent 45 minutes messing around with it and had nothing to show for it except being pissed off. Its supposed to pop right out.

 

[adsm08]

Well, assuming the cylinder still turns to the run position and the pin just won't push in the least destructive method would be to drill the pin.

 

[98v70dad]

Well, assuming the cylinder still turns to the run position and the pin just won't push in the least destructive method would be to drill the pin.

Yeah I thought of that, but I'd rather try to finess it out somehow if possible since I don't have a replacement cylinder right now. The cylinder still turns but sometimes it gets stuck and has to be jiggled to turn it further.

I looked into the hole with a flashlight and all I see is a piece of brass covering it. When I'm pushing into the hole with a phillips head screw driverit feels like I'm pushing against a piece of metal that doesn't give - not a pin that moves. I also tried a center punch and long allen hex key - same result, NADA. I tried to slide the piece out of the way but it won't move far enough.

My short seems related to either turning the key or moving the steering wheel up or down. I have all the trim off and see no chaffing on the wire bundles that are aligned with the steering shaft. I thought that I was onto something with the overdrive cancel button wire and removed it. The protective covering is worn through but the insulation looks OK. So, I moved on the key cylinder since it hasn't been right since I got the truck and I already had all the stuff needed to get to it off. It may be my short but so far I havent been able to get it out.

 

[98v70dad]

Well, assuming the cylinder still turns to the run position and the pin just won't push in the least destructive method would be to drill the pin.

I got it out by being persistent. Not sure if it is OK or not. I don't see anything that would cause a short but it doesn't work right. The dinger sometimes keeps ringing when you take out the key and that's been going on for two years. Putting the key back in and pulling it out always stops the ringing. Also, sometimes the whole steering wheel locks up and it wont turn even though the the lock is turned. That is usually fixed by jiggling the steering wheel back and forth. Rarely, but I have to do it a couple of times I have to manhandle the steering wheel and muscle it free.

While I've got all this stuff out and easy access to everything I thought I'd fix the ringer and sticking steering wheel issues but not sure what the source of the problems is/are. I'm pretty sure this has nothing to do with my short, though. Just going to fix it while I'm in there. The short for now is still a mystery.

The short could be in the wires to the ignition switch but those look pretty protected and don't seem to be crimped in any way.

 

[Shran]

In my experience it's probably the cylinder... could be, probably is, full of metal filings and dirt. Easy/cheap to replace. Could try cleaning it too, blast it out with a bunch of brake cleaner and lubricate it. Your key issue could be caused by a key that's worn or wasn't cut correctly - I have one key that works great one way but if you flip it over, it's almost impossible to pull out of the ignition. One of the keys in my Chevy pickup is just a hair too short and won't turn unless you jiggle it just right. Sometimes they are sensitive like that.

 

[RonD]

It reads like you have not taken off the clam shell covers from the steering column, you need to remove those

In 1996 there would only be 1 wire on the cylinder slot, the "key in ignition" wire, that wire is Grounded when key is IN, so remove that wire and tape it so it can't ground out, or investigate why it is staying grounded with key OUT

 

[98v70dad]

It reads like you have not taken off the clam shell covers from the steering column, you need to remove those

In 1996 there would only be 1 wire on the cylinder slot, the "key in ignition" wire, that wire is Grounded when key is IN, so remove that wire and tape it so it can't ground out, or investigate why it is staying grounded with key OUT

Thanks. I took the steering column covers off weeks ago. I got the lock cylinder out yesterday after screwing with it for about an hour. It was just a matter of getting the button aligned with the hole. My lock cylinder has a good bit of play in and out so getting the button aligned with the hole took a bunch of trial and error. I saw the wire at the front of the lock cylinder slot but didn't know its function. I also couldn't figure out how to get it off, but didn't spend a lot of time on it because I only had a few minutes. It has a plastic clip and looks like it clips in/on. With the cylinder out something was running that shouldn't have been and I didn't have to figure it out so I put it back together. I'll try again after dinner tonight.

 

[98v70dad]

In my experience it's probably the cylinder... could be, probably is, full of metal filings and dirt. Easy/cheap to replace. Could try cleaning it too, blast it out with a bunch of brake cleaner and lubricate it. Your key issue could be caused by a key that's worn or wasn't cut correctly - I have one key that works great one way but if you flip it over, it's almost impossible to pull out of the ignition. One of the keys in my Chevy pickup is just a hair too short and won't turn unless you jiggle it just right. Sometimes they are sensitive like that.

I agree. I finally got it out yesterday and was going to clean it up just like you mentioned but with the lock cylinder out something electrical was running that shouldn't have been running. It was my lunch hour and time was up so for the time being the lock cylinder is re-installed. Will try trouble shooting again after dinner tonight.

 

[RonD]

Unless you unhook the battery with cylinder removed the ignition switch is ON, when you removed the cylinder, you can use a screwdriver to turn it OFF

You can just cut the one wire for now and splice it back together, if you want the "Key in ignition" dinger to work, once you figure out the replacement cylinder

 

[98v70dad]

So some bad luck or incredible DIY incompetance just happened. I took the lock cylinder out in just a few minutes this time. BUT for whatever reason it sort of fell apart in my hands while I was messing around with it. The inner cylinder came out of the outer cylinder and the little steel bullets that are a little bigger than a grain of rice and are the pushers for the detent ring shot out and into my back yard. I would guess they are stainless steel so I have really no hope of finding them- no chance of snagging them with a magnet. 1) I would not have expected that - I thought a split ring held everything together. 2) I watched a bunch of videos and read a webpage about it and none of them said anything about the cylinder coming apart without removing a retainer ring. Anyhow - whatever. I'll buy anew cylinder or maybe a cheapo or used one for the two tiny parts I need.

So a new cyliner is not that expensive - my old one seemed pretty worn and replacing it will be a good thing.

Any part recommendations for a lock cylinder?

Also the wire that grounds the lock cylinder in my truck has a little bit of the plastic broken off it (like a little ear) . Looks ok and it was broken before I removed it.

Do I need a new wire or is that breakage common and the clip is still serviceable?

 

[98v70dad]

Unless you unhook the battery with cylinder removed the ignition switch is ON, when you removed the cylinder, you can use a screwdriver to turn it OFF

You can just cut the one wire for now and splice it back together, if you want the "Key in ignition" dinger to work, once you figure out the replacement cylinder

Thanks, I know thats supposed to work but for some reason it didn't. My 89 year old father gave me this truck and he was proud of the fact that he never had any maintenance done to it. He didn't believe in maintenance. It worked well for me for about a year and lately every time I turn around something else has failed. I had another 25 year old vehicle once and on that one once all the failed stuff was fixed it was dependable for a good long time after. Trying to get there.

 

[rumblecloud]

This may not apply to your situation, but I had a similar issue with a worn ignition. I replaced it with generic Ranger replacement ignition (cheap). The keys almost look like blanks. If you go that route, the generic keys will not lock/unlock your doors. In addition, I had a remote start/anti-theft system that does not play well with the new ignition.

That's the reason I found your post as I am here looking for direction. I want to correct the issues and get back to one set of keys. I'm sure it will be more expensive, but it will be worth it to me.
Hope you get yours sorted.

 

[ericbphoto]

This may not apply to your situation, but I had a similar issue with a worn ignition. I replaced it with generic Ranger replacement ignition (cheap). The keys almost look like blanks. If you go that route, the generic keys will not lock/unlock your doors. In addition, I had a remote start/anti-theft system that does not play well with the new ignition.

That's the reason I found your post as I am here looking for direction. I want to correct the issues and get back to one set of keys. I'm sure it will be more expensive, but it will be worth it to me.
Hope you get yours sorted.

The new key and cylinder you ordered just had a basic generic cut. You can use it as-is. Or you can take the key and cylinder to a locksmith and have it matched to your original cylinder and key.