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Can USB cords be spliced?


Ramcharger90

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Just pull it apart. See if its the same.

Or tap it with a hammer and try and "straighten" that plug end it may just be the housing
 


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Two are power (5v), two are data. Trace them out if fixing the housing doesn't work and give it a try.
 

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Heh. I should read better.

Splicing the cable back together clearly won't work. So, in that case, yes, you can just solder a new end on. The wire colors will be the same unless it's a cable from a company who says "screw industry standards"
 

kunar

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i think id try putting a new connector on it before id try splicing the cable its self

link

 

8thTon

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It's probably USB2 at the fastest, so no big deal in terms of controlled impedance, etc. You've got 5V, Gnd, Data In and Data Out. The power wires are easy to figure out, and if you get the DI and DO swapped it won't hurt anything, it just won't work.
 

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I thought your were a precision welder?
Weld the tucker...
 

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Reason #2,358 why carbs are better
 

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Reason #2,358 why carbs are better
Cant see how having a tool that can trace, diagnose, and test a problem before even opening the hood is in any way a bad thing.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Cant see how having a tool that can trace, diagnose, and test a problem before even opening the hood is in any way a bad thing.
You can do that with carbs too...its called know how
 

Dirtman

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Anyway, I went with @kunar idea, bought these.


We will see how well I do. I actually kinda suck at soldering small stuff like this but they come in a 10 pack so I have more than one chance to get it right.
 

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Try a hot air rework station some time if you get the chance. Just apply the solder paste in the general area it needs to go, point the hot air at it, and it wicks onto the solder pads like magic.
 

Dirtman

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Try a hot air rework station some time if you get the chance. Just apply the solder paste in the general area it needs to go, point the hot air at it, and it wicks onto the solder pads like magic.
I'll have to google this. I've used cold solder alot over the years. Just conductive epoxy basically, it ain't great but it works. I think honestly I just need a good solder station. My small solder tool is butane so very limited heat control. When I do automotive size wires I just take the tip off and use the open flame. I'm impatient so like just hitting it with fire for a second and solder sucks right in. Don't work on tiny stuff like this though.
 

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