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>> Can Tiger Patch Muffler Tape fix Duh HEATER Hose (Tee)?? NOPE!<<


Blmpkn

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Come on nah... I done said I can't WELD, only sweat-solder... hmmm... guess I could sweat a stop-less coupler on there, skillfully fillet the solder to avoid sharp edges... yeah, that's the ticket... OR... just borrow the FLARE TOOL KIT from Auto-hoes...
Yall done did need to learn the weldins ya hear?
 


fixizin

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Yall done did need to learn the weldins ya hear?
Honestly, with welding skills... and welding equipment, I'd be dangerous!... and my Ranger would probably weigh an extra 1,284 lbs... :icon_welder:
 

fixizin

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>>> EPIC FAIL on the pressure test! <<< (i.e. do NOT put muffler tape in your roadside repair kit)

Despite filing down the jagged edges of the 1/4" (actually 3/8") tee until flush with the main 5/8" bore,
Despite leaving the custom-trimmed Tiger Patch out in the hot sun for 15 minutes (hey, it's 1,900degF MUFFLER tape),
Despite TIGHTLY wrapping it with at least 8 laps, each turn thumb-jammed into the gaping maw,
Despite letting it "set up" for 10 hours before stressing it...

... it performed like a piece of plywood held 3 feet from an open fire hydrant... :annoyed: (i.e. it now bleeds straight down, instead of all over the engine bay...)

PS: It appears the heater hoses are flowing even with t-stat CLOSED, amirite?
 

1990RangerinSK

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>>> EPIC FAIL on the pressure test! <<< (i.e. do NOT put muffler tape in your roadside repair kit)

Despite filing down the jagged edges of the 1/4" (actually 3/8") tee until flush with the main 5/8" bore,
Despite leaving the custom-trimmed Tiger Patch out in the hot sun for 15 minutes (hey, it's 1,900degF MUFFLER tape),
Despite TIGHTLY wrapping it with at least 8 laps, each turn thumb-jammed into the gaping maw,
Despite letting it "set up" for 10 hours before stressing it...

... it performed like a piece of plywood held 3 feet from an open fire hydrant... :annoyed: (i.e. it now bleeds straight down, instead of all over the engine bay...)

PS: It appears the heater hoses are flowing even with t-stat CLOSED, amirite?
I would hope coolant is flowing through the heater hoses with the thermostat closed. In Western Canada, where temperatures can hit -40*F, we don't want to have to wait for the thermostat to open (would it even open at -40?) before we get heat in the cab!
 

fixizin

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I would hope coolant is flowing through the heater hoses with the thermostat closed. In Western Canada, where temperatures can hit -40*F, we don't want to have to wait for the thermostat to open (would it even open at -40?) before we get heat in the cab!
LOL... had a Florida-bias moment there... at -40, the heater core IS your radiator... actually, we need the heat fast too, to defrost windshield during summer T-storms, without icing/fogging up.

Now I just have to come up with a heater hose jury-rig that lets me close the surprisingly (for a truck) close-fitted (aluminum) hood.
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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LOL... had a Florida-bias moment there... at -40, the heater core IS your radiator... actually, we need the heat fast too, to defrost windshield during summer T-storms, without icing/fogging up.

Now I just have to come up with a heater hose jury-rig that lets me close the surprisingly (for a truck) close-fitted (aluminum) hood.
Forget about the Tee fittings, connect heater hose from the water pump to the lower intake ports (the two 5/8” fittings). It’s a heater core bypass at that point and will work just fine until you can do something else
 

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>>> EPIC FAIL on the pressure test! <<< (i.e. do NOT put muffler tape in your roadside repair kit)

Despite filing down the jagged edges of the 1/4" (actually 3/8") tee until flush with the main 5/8" bore,
Despite leaving the custom-trimmed Tiger Patch out in the hot sun for 15 minutes (hey, it's 1,900degF MUFFLER tape),
Despite TIGHTLY wrapping it with at least 8 laps, each turn thumb-jammed into the gaping maw,
Despite letting it "set up" for 10 hours before stressing it...

... it performed like a piece of plywood held 3 feet from an open fire hydrant... :annoyed: (i.e. it now bleeds straight down, instead of all over the engine bay...)

PS: It appears the heater hoses are flowing even with t-stat CLOSED, amirite?
You mean it worked as well as using a chain link fence to control skeeters? Or a stupid fabric mask to control a "virus"?
 

Eddo Rogue

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Pressure test of "Tiger Patch" in about 6 hours... WISH I'd had a ball-bearing to shove in that hole before I taped over it... oh well...

RE: using plumbing parts, the guys on "Jalopy" website make their own copper coolant system components all the time, but they "flare" or somehow put a "lip" on the end of the pipe to prevent hose from sliding off... considering ways to do that... hmmm...
theres swaging and flaring bits that do it, HVAC supply places sell them

63323
 

fixizin

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Eddo: COOL TOOL!... but probably only for annealed (soft temper) tubing. All my scraps are the hard kind (L-weight) used in water plumbing, not HVAC/refrigeration.

cbxer55: You mean it worked as well as using a chain link fence to control skeeters? Or a stupid fabric mask to control a "virus"?
Or a condom made of gauze on prom night?... yeah, you get the idea... :bawling:

lil_Blue_Ford: ... connect heater hose from the water pump to the lower intake port... Yeah, once I stopped over-thinking it, that's one of the short-cuts I'm not sure will clear the hood... will re-evaluate when I have some daylight. (Secretly I've always wanted to drive around for a few days in air-conditioned comfort--with the hood and the BED removed!... makes civilians lose their minds.)
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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Eddo: COOL TOOL!... but probably only for annealed (soft temper) tubing. All my scraps are the hard kind (L-weight) used in water plumbing, not HVAC/refrigeration.

cbxer55: You mean it worked as well as using a chain link fence to control skeeters? Or a stupid fabric mask to control a "virus"?
Or a condom made of gauze on prom night?... yeah, you get the idea... :bawling:

lil_Blue_Ford: ... connect heater hose from the water pump to the lower intake port... Yeah, once I stopped over-thinking it, that's one of the short-cuts I'm not sure will clear the hood... will re-evaluate when I have some daylight. (Secretly I've always wanted to drive around for a few days in air-conditioned comfort--with the hood and the BED removed!... makes civilians lose their minds.)
There should be a way to route it to clear the hood. I have done it before, but so far only on an 89. Although he hood appears to be pretty much tight against the top of the intake in most of these trucks there actually is a little clearance. You can use as long of a hose as you need to make the bypass as well, doesn’t have to be the shortest piece in the world. I’m actually kicking around ideas for modifying the heater hoses for a couple of my trucks, like adding a bypass for the heater core to my 92 and a total revamp of the hose setup in my 2000 thats getting the V8 because I don’t like the rusty flattened bends to the stock setup
 

fixizin

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lil_Blue_Ford: Yep, just stubbed it out with a short "donor" piece from the broken side, working fine... that stuff radiuses tighter than I thought, at least when it's real old... PLENTY of hood clearance... OTOH, hood is REAL TIGHT over the radiator cap... don't think a "lever" type will fit.

To be fair, this hose/fitting is 13 years old, and the stage was set for this part-failure in one of my first posts on TRS, back in 2008: https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/heater-hoses-fancy-molded-or-bend-it-yourself-bulk-anti-chafe.18399/post-158877

"... The Gates fit fine in the important crowded area behind the alternator, but the bastiges made the little 1/4" feeder hoses that serve the intake manifold about a half-inch too short... kinda pulls things a tad close to the oil-filler cap... maybe they'll relax and stretch over time...? " or just snap right off!... D'OH!

Note to self: stop procrastinating on the Stop-Procrastination Program, lol...
 

fixizin

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Would JB-Weld's "Water Weld" product have done the job?... we'll never know... whenever I buy a tube of similar epoxy putty "just in case", it always goes bad by the time I need it, lulz...

Anyway, this time 'round going with molded hoses from Continental, because they have the hot grrrlzz on race day... and cuz they were the right price at rockauto.com...
 
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I've used silicone self fusing tape on a thermostat housing/radiator hose that broke. It worked great and got the van home 15 miles without leaking. I always carry some of that crap in my tool bag now. JB water weld is awesome stuff but I dunno how it would work on a pressurized system. It'll plug a gas tank or oil pan nicely but there's no pressure there.
 

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