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>> Can Tiger Patch Muffler Tape fix Duh HEATER Hose (Tee)?? NOPE!<<


fixizin

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Yeah, that goofy plastic tee that routes coolant to the 3.0 intake manifold (why?) SNAPPED OFF. Was bleeding me out at an alarming rate. Would've left me stranded had I not been a block from mi casa. Seems Ye Olde Radiator Repair Tape must've been found to cause brain cancer 'cause no one carries it any more... the only tape on the rack that seems rated for any temps over 120degF was the Tiger Patch Muffler/Tailpipe Quick Patch... will that do the trick, or should I get a refund before I open it?

Don't have to drive much in the next week, but I do have to get around... that'll give me time to decide how I want to re-plumb the heater hoses... may stub it out using copper plumbing parts... don't need much heater core action in So-Fla in July.
 


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ThatOneGuy

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Stuff like that really isnt made for constant water contact, im not familiar with that brand, however i wouldnt trust it to keep my truck safe. Im not sure about hose diameter on that part, but your local hardware store should have something, i would look for some galvanized steel pipe a tee and 3 nipples could be threaded together and conected with hose clamps, if that part happens to be hard to get from parts store. I bet the pipe would be cheeper than that tape,and would last forever. If this could end up being a long term repair i wouldnt use black pipe.
 

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I don’t think it will work. In place of a permanent fix, you can loop a piece of heater hose from the port on the water pump to the port on the intake. You won’t have heat in the cab, but you will be able to drive it with reasonable impunity.
 

fixizin

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I will be using COPPER plumbing parts/tubing... I can't weld, but I can sweat-solder like a demon! Also, IIRC, the O.D. of nominal 1/2" copper pipe (pka "tubing") is 5/8", which happens to be the I.D. of 3.0 Vulcan heater hoses, so should be a nice fit with standard hose clamps...? Galvanized/Black/Iron pipe has quite a bit larger O.D. ... IIRC?

But that's going to be a week or so before I can re-plumb, IN THE MEANTIME, just need a jury-rigged "patch" that will last for 40-50 miles.

Was going to use tough EPOXY PUTTY (PC-7, Marine-Tex, etc.), and maybe some cloth reinforcement, but that stuff starts breaking down around 150-180degF...

THANKS MUCH for the ideas--keep 'em coming!
 

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If your unable to aquire the materials to do a proper repair i would suggest lil blue fords option, please dont try and rely on some temp repair tape or glue, its kust asking for a blown head gasket.
 

fixizin

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Appreciate the concern about running "dry" and blowing a head gasket, but it will be easy to see whether the "patch" is leaking or not.

Again, doing the "WAH=Work At Home" thaaang, just going to be running errands within 10 miles of homebase, for a week or so...
 

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And just out of curiosity, are those hoses still hooked up to the intake manifold? They're totally unnecessary, unless you live somewhere north of Detroit. Mine have been disconnected for near 20 years, one of the first things I did when I bought the truck. I saw that crap and said to myself, I don't want the intake heated, I want it cooled off. Disconnected the hoses and joined them together with a piece of copper tubing and two hose clamps. Put two rubber caps on the barbs on the intake.

There was a thread here the other day, where a guy thought those barbs were for vacuum connections. He was set straight pretty fast. LOL! His were already disconnected by the previous owner.

I'm going to put some new heater hose on mine soon and toss the plastic T's in the round-open-top-file.
 
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fixizin

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I'm going to put some new heated hose on mine soon and toss the plastic T's in the round-open-top-file.
Got your non-tee heater hoses picked out yet?... I'm pondering how to handle those tight multi-bends at the water pump/thermostat ends... there's some pre-bent hoses for Chevy LS1 engines, or I might just solder up some copper pipe w/ copper ells, even though that introduces 4 extra joints and 4 extra hose clamps... hmmm...
 

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Heated hose? LOL! Oh well, must browse my typing before hitting post.

I haven't looked at all that yet. I didn't know about the tight ends. I'll look at them my next day off, whenever that may be. It's not something that needs to be rushed. Might just cut out the sections where the T's are and clamp in some replacement tubing. Right now, I still have the hoses that used to connect to the intake under there. Not a problem, just want to make them gone.
 

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What exactly, pray tell, do you want pictures of? Dirty old broken heater hoses? Really? I'd rather look at pictures of paint drying. ;-)
 

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Maybe you can just cut it, reconnect the two ends over a sleeve and hose clamps? I think a pvc should work, they make aluminum ones too for threading in aftermarket coolant sensor or whatnot.
 

fixizin

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Pressure test of "Tiger Patch" in about 6 hours... WISH I'd had a ball-bearing to shove in that hole before I taped over it... oh well...

RE: using plumbing parts, the guys on "Jalopy" website make their own copper coolant system components all the time, but they "flare" or somehow put a "lip" on the end of the pipe to prevent hose from sliding off... considering ways to do that... hmmm...
 

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Vise grips with a rod welded 1/4" back from the lip and a corresponding groove on the other side.
 

fixizin

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Vise grips with a rod welded 1/4" back from the lip and a corresponding groove on the other side.
Come on nah... I done said I can't WELD, only sweat-solder... hmmm... guess I could sweat a stop-less coupler on there, skillfully fillet the solder to avoid sharp edges... yeah, that's the ticket... OR... just borrow the FLARE TOOL KIT from Auto-hoes...
 


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