Camshaft Syncro Position and TDCC

[Rearanger]

I am sure the O-ring is nothing special

Probably not, just an off the shelf size. My problem is getting the correct size without taking the syncro off again, and possibly damaging the o-ring. Should have measured the one on the replacement. The o-ring on the Standard Auto looked like nitrile (reddish color), while the Ford looked buna-n. Nitrile is a better material.

On further thought I decided the new syncro did not fit not due to the o-ring, but to the machining burr at the bottom of the reamed hex for the oil shaft. It just came to a dead stop with no give. When I looked at it it looked to be far enough down so that it would not interfere.

By the way, my idle did not improve despite the better accuracy of positioning the syncro.

 

[JP02XLT]

Most of the idle problems I have seen, in the end have been due to fuel issues, leaking / sticking injectors etc. They may not have a problem as demand increases. Ignition issues will always show up under a load and maybe at idle.

JP02XLT

 

[Rearanger]

The idle's just a bit lumpy but my comparison is a 4 cyl'd Camry and 6 cyl'd Montero - both OHC. The Camry has a balance shaft as well. Maybe it's just the nature of a pushrod engine.

 

[Rearanger]

Just an updated post of my syncro problems.

Continued squeak/chirp is still hard to determine if idler pulley or syncro as it's intermittent . This week though on startup a couple of times, and with squeaking/chirping, the engine idled very rough and died. Restart OK but I decided to have another look at the cam sensor. It seemed OK but I noticed small plastic shavings inside the housing. It appears the metal "flag" has been acting as a lathe tool and trimming the sensor - just a little. No detectible play in the shaft, but for safety I ordered another syncro with sensor and an idler pulley because it's so cheap and shipping with syncro is the same.

 

[Rearanger]

I ordered another Standard Motor Products syncro from RockAuto. The first was of such poor quality I returned it. This second unit had the same faults as the first - poorly reamed drive shaft hole that would not allow proper installation and metal chips in the bottom of the reamed hole.

I can't believe how badly this was and that their quality control is this lax. I finally ordered the Motorcraft one at twice the price and w/o the sensor and alignment tool.

Only advice I can give now is either don't order Standard Motor parts or inspect them very carefully before installation. This part was made in the Taiwan plant so maybe that is the only problem.

 

[Huzzunga]

Thank goodness for this thread and that picture!!! I had the wife “just bump” the ignition so I could put the trigger in the window and use the alignment tool that came with the new cam synch.
I didn’t disconnect anything as the coil lead looks a bit fragile. Of course on the second bump the truck started. We immediately shut it down, and mechanically nothing had moved. But I decided to do #1 TDC. Of all the pictures, posts, and other useless information, this thread showed me where the mark was.
Running again, no leaking. I bought a new, not re-manufactured cam synch for under $40 at Auto Zone.
As long as it doesn’t leak up through the dust cap like the other one did, I’m happy
Jeff

 

[Rearanger]

You might find THIS video also helpful.

 

[nobb]

I ordered another Standard Motor Products syncro from RockAuto. The first was of such poor quality I returned it. This second unit had the same faults as the first - poorly reamed drive shaft hole that would not allow proper installation and metal chips in the bottom of the reamed hole.

I can't believe how badly this was and that their quality control is this lax. I finally ordered the Motorcraft one at twice the price and w/o the sensor and alignment tool.

Only advice I can give now is either don't order Standard Motor parts or inspect them very carefully before installation. This part was made in the Taiwan plant so maybe that is the only problem.

Sorry to bump and old thread, just wondering if you could clarify what you mean by "poorly reamed drive shaft hole" and what to look for? I installed a Spectra Premium FD32 synchronizer and holy heck I had the worst time trying to remove this for servicing. At first I thought it was a bad main bore or o-ring on the main bore but I measured it with the OE unit and the diameters were fine there.

 

[Rearanger]

Sorry to bump and old thread, just wondering if you could clarify what you mean by "poorly reamed drive shaft hole" and what to look for? I installed a Spectra Premium FD32 synchronizer and holy heck I had the worst time trying to remove this for servicing. At first I thought it was a bad main bore or o-ring on the main bore but I measured it with the OE unit and the diameters were fine there.

Sorry to get back so late as I was out of town.

The "poor Quality" were machining chips in the sealed plastic bag the syncro came in. They were not cleaned off prior to packaging. As well the reaming, which normally should leave an accurate smooth surface was very rough.

I ended up emailing Standard Motor and alerting them to the poor production method. It has probably been corrected by now.