Camber Problem

[Beef52751]

I swapped in my dana 35 and cant get the camber set. I also swapped in a set of skyjacker drop brackets at the same time. When I first put it in I put the pivot bolts in the 6" holes but it was 3* negative camber. I moved the pivots up to the 4" holes and it is still 2* negative. I only have 2* eccentrics that are maxed out. I was wondering if I could shim up my springs until I get the camber into check? Or should I buy a different eccentric?
Thanks for any input

 

[4x4junkie]

You can use shims or coil spacers, sure. If it were mine though I'd look into getting new (longer) springs if they're that much too short.

 

[Beef52751]

I probably will get new coils. I'm thinking a 320 ppi eb coil would be well suited for what I'm going to be doing. I just need something to get it in check until I get new shock mounts and longer shocks. I'm just slightly confused why with the drop plate/Dana 28 setup that was on there it was fine but now with the skyjacker/Dana 35 it's way out.

 

[4x4junkie]

Have you aligned it yet? Does the camber change if you back up vs. going forward?

 

[Beef52751]

Just in my garage. Don't plan on having it professionally aligned unless I can't get it. I will see if it changes when I back up but I doubt it. Replaced everything in the axle so it's all tight and I put on a super runner steering setup, but I'll check.

 

[bigmark303]

Are you using factory height springs with 4-6" drop brackets for the axle beams?

There is a 0-4 degree adjustable bushing made by Moog #K80109. That's the best thing to get the TTB back into alignment. That bushing offers the most degree of adjustment for the D35 TTB

If you are running axle drop brackets with factory springs youll need to get the proper springs first.

 

[Beef52751]

No it has 4" rough country or similar springs in it now.

 

[Beef52751]

I checked after rolling forward and then pulled out of my garage and backed it in and it checked the same. Im about 1* off after the washers. So im going to order new adjusters and dial it in. At least the way it is I can drive it this weekend.

 

[bigmark303]

You want to be checking it after rolling forward. The camber angle changes from backing up and you wont get it correct if you are checking it after backing it in the garage.

Pull it in and adjust the camber. Do one side at a time. Drop that side reverse out of the garage at least 20-30ft, then pull straight back in and check again. Adjust the other side and keep going until they are both even. Always pull it forward though and never check it after backing up.

 

[Beef52751]

Have you aligned it yet? Does the camber change if you back up vs. going forward?

This is why I checked it backing up once. But if there was a difference from going forward to backing up it was so small I didnt notice it. As in .1or.2 of a degree

 

[4x4junkie]

The reason I said that was because if the toe alignment was off, it would 'jack' upward going in one direction, and 'squat' or get sucked down while going the other (which way it goes depends on whether it's toed in or toed out).

With correct toe alignment there should be no noticeable height change going forward or backwards.

What i suggest is get some sort of slipper plate to put under one of your front tires (and a piece of wood, etc. of similar thickness for the other tire) and see exactly what your camber is, as this is really the only reliable way to eliminate any bind between the tires that could affect the height the suspension sits at.

Lower half of this page talks about using such a plate and aligning it.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2008/steering_tech.htm

Hope that helps.