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Camber Eccentric #'s


Flash Gordan

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Does anybody know if there is a company that makes camber bushings for the 88 and earlier trucks that has more than just the + or - 2 1/4 degrees? Everywhere I've looked has those as the limit, Summit, Autozone, and Advance. Any other place I can try?
 


Nick

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i took a 2wd ranger 87 and put 5 in lift coils in them . i ended up dropping the entire lower assembly 4 in. it was a pain in the ass. i drilled out all the rivits and made custom drop brackets front and rear. if u lower the entire assembly or possibly cut one out of a wreck and graft it in the bottom u can get a big lift and keep it all straight or go with a smaller spring and maybe a lift kit or lift spindles.
 

Cody Ray

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so basically the pinch bolt is the only thing holding the upper ball joint in place. loosen the pinch bolt and remove the upper ball joint. The bushing is then easily replaced? those forks wreck the ball joint boots! is there a way to hammer it down from the top or to use a puller of sorts?
You can loosen the pinch joint and then use a hammer and tap up on the uca to help free it from the spindle. Watch your knuckles on the fender, coming up with that hammer tends to skin your knuckles pretty good. If I remember correctly the tires can be off the ground and their weight plus brakes & spindle will keep it from moving up with the hammer blows.
 

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The forks suck. If you hit the forging with a hammer correctly, you can do it quite handily- now get this, the taper of the ball joint is a round wedge-, so before you make a formless piece of modern art, approximate a perpendicular line to the side of the taper nearest you, back the nut off a little to protect the threads, and hit that forging along that perpendicular line with a Mack Daddy Whoopin' Hammer. Energy is transferred from the MDWH, to the forging, to the ball joint taper, and to the other side of the taper. All of this is forcing the interface of the opposite side of the taper and and its corresponding forging to start to slide against each other, ejecting the taper... all while leaving your components completely reusable, except for maybe the nut, which may suffer from missed strikes by the MDWH. Multiple applications of the MDWH are necessary to do this work, as that taper has been there for quite a while.
Yes, you will dent your forging, and my answer is: your great grandchildren we be proud to see your handiwork, if the vehicle sticks around that long.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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^^^ I've done the same type of deal on tie rods and pitman arms using two hammers.

Richard
 

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Just a reminder......the Toe-In has to be re-adjusted after EACH re-adjustment when using eccentric bushings....or the camber/caster will give you fits....as the tie-rods will put EVERYTHING in a serious bind!
 

thordack

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camber eccentrics

Hi everyone I'm planning
On lifting my sons 1992 ranger 2wd I'm only lifting it 2 inches and was wondering
If anyone knew how many degrees on negative camber eccentrics I would need
 

ggomez2

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Hi everyone I'm planning
On lifting my sons 1992 ranger 2wd I'm only lifting it 2 inches and was wondering
If anyone knew how many degrees on negative camber eccentrics I would need
Did you ever find your answer to your question? I have a '94 2WD 4.0l Ranger and am researching new Moog coils as well as a 2 inch leveling kit spacer. I realize I need to have an adjustable caster bushing installed.
 

ggomez2

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Did you ever find your answer to your question? I have a '94 2WD 4.0l Ranger and am researching new Moog coils as well as a 2 inch leveling kit spacer. I realize I need to have an adjustable caster bushing installed.
BUMP... anyone have an answer to this?
 

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Can I interest you in this question?

`04 Ranger 2x4 on 4x4 chassis

Plans:
4 tires, 4 shocks

There's a camber issue on the passenger front. Two alignment shops showed it in spec and I still see inside wear. No one wants to touch camber? They work the toe like something's being done about it. I'm one person without a roll away. Can I do something with a medium level of tools?

Thanks
 

pjtoledo

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Fast Eddie

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Thanks. Something to follow through on.
 

Fast Eddie

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these fit 1998-2011 Rangers, all models of 2wd and 4wd.
if you have a 2 piece passenger side upper control arm they aren't available anymore, get a 1 piece like the drivers side. specify torsion bar
if the big washers on the end of the upper control arm bolts are sort of egg shaped/oval/not round you already have adjustable parts.


I opted for these: Caster/Camber Adjusting Kit Dorman (OE Solutions) 545-534

I have 4 new shocks to install and want to get the camber problem solved, while everything is already out of the way, before mounting new tires.

Thanks for sending me in the right direction.
 

Fast Eddie

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Just a reminder......the Toe-In has to be re-adjusted after EACH re-adjustment when using eccentric bushings....or the camber/caster will give you fits....as the tie-rods will put EVERYTHING in a serious bind!
Come again? No wonder no one wants to touch camber. It's a 1/2 day's job.
 

pjtoledo

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doorgunner was talking about an older truck with totally different parts up front.
that said it is true for any alignment that one adjustment affects others.

did you look at your upper control arm bushings to see if you already have adjustable cams/bolts?

once the camber parts are installed the front alignment is just a normal job.
 

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