camber caused by rotors?

[4TTF2]

ok heres my problem, i got a 94 ranger 4x4 and when i got the truck a couple months ago i noticed camber... kinda ignored it tell i noticed no tread on the inside of my tires. i then replaced the ball joints, bearing, tie rod ends, then got an allignment. it seemed for for awhile then i noticed the camber again and sent it into my local dealership/shop.... a friend of mine that works there looked at it and said my rotors are bad and getting new ones will fix it??? is this true

 

[06RangerXLT]

your springs are sagging... ttb when compressed wears the inside pf the tire. how much do you and everything is your truck weigh?

 

[4TTF2]

i was told that to, and above my suspenion my truck should weigh just a little more then a stock ranger... all i got done is 4 inch rancho lift with 32 inch tires... but when i jack my tires up i have a little play up and down movment, its gotta be something with the rotor, bearings, or the cylender thingthat hooks onto the spindle that the bearings sit on... my bearings are "really" tight and i still have play

 

[legoms013]

If you are positive it is not anything you have already replaced, then it can be only two things.

Your springs are settled in and you need a few washers to shim them up a little, or your inner/outer wheel bearings are totally shot to hell and need replacement.

If you are still getting rotor movement (hands at 9 and 3 o clock, with no tierod movement) then it could very well be your wheel bearings.

They are bad....$17 a piece for good Timkens (only buy Timken, trust me) and you'll need 4 total for the L and right sides. And some high temp wheelbearing grease, as well as 2 hrs in your driveway. Easy job.

If it were anything else, there would have already been catastrophic failure, (like you mention it could be the spindle but that is unlikely to come loose due to its tight fit, rusted on adhesion, and properly torqued nuts from Ford during assembly back in '94....possible but pretty rare).

 

[4TTF2]

the thing is is that i just replaced all that stuff and bearing under 2000 miles ago? no way they should go out that fast without anything causes them to go out, and im not hard on them most of my driving is back and forth to school and home and maybe once every 2 weeks illl get it muddy, i mean i can replace them iv done it a couple time.. no problem, it just doesnt make since to me?

 

[whissiswheelin]

maybe the lock nut has backed off the wheel bearing...

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

^^^ that.
or improperly torqued...too tight. I have done them too tight and they screwed up nearly instantly.
On one vehicle [can't remember what now] I noticed that the inner bearing race was loose [IIRC in the hub] and caused problems, when trying to tighten it still had slop.

Richard

 

[legoms013]

Yes, if the inner lock nut is over torque, wheelbearig can be toast in a matter of miles.

If it is not tight enough, it will wear out, but not quite as fast as the above reason and you will notice play.

I have hunch it is one of the two.

Another thing is that maybe the lock washer has slipped into one of the grooves on the spindle when you torqued it down (this happens all the time due to the engineers not giving the keyway tab on them enough meat) and now the outer spindle nut has also torqued the inner one.

I have had all three situations happen to me.

I'd tear it down and re set it all up. Inner bearing gets enough torque to take the slop out of the rotor (not much). And the outer one gets 150 ft lbs, or more if you have larger than stock tires. Just make sure when you torque the outer one, that it does not take the lock washer with it into the threads of the spindle, and torque the inner nut as well, as failure of the bearing will eventually result.

 

[4TTF2]

ok, ill try doing that.. i dont think one of my front tires has a lock washer do they make that big of a difference?

the last time i took my rotors off i noticed alot of play between the outer bearing part of the bearing had a lot of slop between that and the rotor... will that go away when it tightend?

 

[DanVB1]

I just replaced my front brake pads and both rotors and bearings. The truck seems to track straighter now, had camber issues before also.
Time will tell, but I also plan on replacing the tie rods (appear to be loose) and some of the rubber bushings.
NOTE:
I originally bought National Oil Seal bearings (Moog), but took them back after I saw they were made in China. I then bought TIMKEN because they are made in the USA, only paid about $10 extra for the four but its money worth spent. I don't want to buy ANYTHING CHINESE for various reasons.

 

[CHKNFKR]

ok, ill try doing that.. i dont think one of my front tires has a lock washer do they make that big of a difference?

Yes. This is very likely the root of your problem.

 

[adsm08]

a friend of mine that works there looked at it and said my rotors are bad and getting new ones will fix it??? is this true

Your "friend" is an "ass-hat" and needs to go back to work at McDonald's.

The only way that is even remotely possible is if your wheel bearings aren't staying tight, but the bearings and races can be replaced separate from the rotor.