shitboxinator
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2025
- Messages
- 5
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- reno
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Make / Model
- ford ranger
- Transmission
- Manual
Did alot of research on here, and every guide i saw said you needed to pull intake to get the cam synchronizer out.
decided to attempt with out pulling intake just to see if i could save the hassle, and if failed id do it the normal method ive seen on here.
i was successful and only took around an hr.
the way i popped my old one out, was to set a 19mm socket on top of trans right behind the synchronizer, to fill the gap between the 11" mini crow bar i used.
used the 180 degree side under the old style units spout for connector, synchronizer popped right up and out.
i did sand the side of the install tool on the new one, as i also opted to install a 1996 (new style) 123mm synchronizer.
but even with the upper off,interference was to the lower intake. on the tool only, as its a bit fatter than the sensor itself. followed the normal 1995+ instructions, set to tdc on cylinder one, confirmed with compression gauge.
pick n pulled the connector and opted to solder it in.
viola, no more check engine light. thankful it wasnt ecu as the circumstances my checkengine had come on were odd, and the 214 was only pullable code from memory, no codes displayed on koer, but cel on while running.
decided to attempt with out pulling intake just to see if i could save the hassle, and if failed id do it the normal method ive seen on here.
i was successful and only took around an hr.
the way i popped my old one out, was to set a 19mm socket on top of trans right behind the synchronizer, to fill the gap between the 11" mini crow bar i used.
used the 180 degree side under the old style units spout for connector, synchronizer popped right up and out.
i did sand the side of the install tool on the new one, as i also opted to install a 1996 (new style) 123mm synchronizer.
but even with the upper off,interference was to the lower intake. on the tool only, as its a bit fatter than the sensor itself. followed the normal 1995+ instructions, set to tdc on cylinder one, confirmed with compression gauge.
pick n pulled the connector and opted to solder it in.
viola, no more check engine light. thankful it wasnt ecu as the circumstances my checkengine had come on were odd, and the 214 was only pullable code from memory, no codes displayed on koer, but cel on while running.
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