Cam sync chirp

[Kiyp]

Ive got a 2003 mazda b3000 and within the past week the camshaft synchronizer has started chirping, the past few days its been constant but before it was only when i first started the engine, i just need to know how urgent this issue is, im short on money right now but can fix it in the next few days if it's crazy urgent with a cheaper rebuild part from an autozone, but if i can id prefer to push it put 2 weeks and use a proper motorcraft part as im kinda strapped for cash at the moment

 

[RonD]

The cam synchro drives the oil pump, one of its bushing/bearings has dried out making it hard to turn and squeaking
It has a Cam gear on its shaft held by a roll pin, if the pin shears off, from too much stress, then no oil pump, a very bad thing

So yes, important, you should replace the synchro unit ASAP
It could also be fine for months, but an expensive roll of the dice if it fails

 

[Kiyp]

Thank you ron you are always a wealth of knowledge and advice i will sadly have to go with a cheap replacement but a syncro that won't last as long is better than no oil pressure destroying a truck with only 66k miles, i will get it taken care of in a day or 2

 

[Blmpkn]

Thank you ron you are always a wealth of knowledge and advice i will sadly have to go with a cheap replacement but a syncro that won't last as long is better than no oil pressure destroying a truck with only 66k miles, i will get it taken care of in a day or 2

When you have the cash for the Motorcraft unit it wouldn't be a bad idea to buy one and then install it. Leave the one you buy for the meantime on a shelf for 'just in case' purposes down the road.

 

[RonD]

Odd thing about the 3.0l Cam synchro is that its bushings/bearings are the same as was used on the 3.0l distributor 1991-1994 and they NEVER had a issue like the synchro's do

To make it an easier swap pull off the sensor part and look at where the rotor inside is pointed take a picture and mark its location on the housing, referencing the cam sensor bolt holes
You can manually turn the engine with socket on crank pulley bolt until rotor it aligned with one of the sensor bolt holes, just to make it easier to align the new one
Pull out the old synchro, rotor will turn a bit as the cam gears are angled
Line up the new synchro with rotor in the same place as the old after it was pulled out
Lower the new synchro into place and it should rotate back to the "mark" again, referencing the sensor bolt holes(housing)
So no re-timing needed

If it doesn't drop down all the way its because the oil pump drive shaft is not aligned with bottom of synchro shaft, hex
Use a socket on the crank pulley to rotate engine 90deg(1/4 turn) one way and then 90deg the other way and bring it back to "center"
Synchro should have dropped down

Check the "mark" from old to new

 

[Kiyp]

I read about how the distributor and the cam sync wear differently in the exact same set up it is definitely strange, and i think the old article onbit should be updated with some of what you said because there are some tips you mentioned the old info doesn't have that would definitely make it easier, thank you

 

[RonD]

My thinking is the vane wheel in the distributor kept the top of the shaft spinning true like a balancer wheel
Where the cam rotor is a bit unbalanced at the top end


In any case yes, I am OLD, lol, and have had to do my share of distributor timing, no reason to re-time if the old distributor or cam synchro was already timed to begin with
With distributors you still had to fine tune timing with a timing light, the computer can fine tune cam sensor if its within a few degrees of correct timing, it has the Crank sensor to use as the "centerline" for TDC compression and exhaust strokes

 

[stmitch]

The issue is lubrication of the bushings. If they're properly lubricated by dropping a little bit of oil onto the suspect bushings periodically, you might be able to limp it along for a couple of weeks until money is less tight.
That would be a gamble of course. And maybe not one that I'd take with my own truck. But a quart of oil is cheaper than a junk synchro too.