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Cab mount frame hole size.


IRFANGNOSIS

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Does anyone know what size these holes are supposed to be? I don’t have my new cab mount bushings yet and want to fix as much as possible. My guess is it is at least an inch but without new bushings IDK. I don’t want to have to drill them out after I weld the metal in.
 

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franklin2

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I just put new bushings in my BII. I had a couple to repair also. I had some old rubber ones still out in the shop, and while they are a little distorted, the majority of them seem to be around 1 1/4 in diameter. That's the part that sticks through of course, the OD of the complete bushing is much larger.

I see in the picture you have the same situation I did. It's difficult to to determine the center and where the hole needs to go. What I did is make a plate with the center hole punched out, and then when replacing the bushings I put it all together and got the body sat down, without welding the repair plate in. By doing that it found it's home where it needed to be, I marked it's location and also the outline where I could trim it off to look decent, and then I lifted the body back up, took that all apart, and then positioned and welded the repair piece, and then it was ready for final assembly after a little paint.
 

IRFANGNOSIS

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I just put new bushings in my BII. I had a couple to repair also. I had some old rubber ones still out in the shop, and while they are a little distorted, the majority of them seem to be around 1 1/4 in diameter. That's the part that sticks through of course, the OD of the complete bushing is much larger.

I see in the picture you have the same situation I did. It's difficult to to determine the center and where the hole needs to go. What I did is make a plate with the center hole punched out, and then when replacing the bushings I put it all together and got the body sat down, without welding the repair plate in. By doing that it found it's home where it needed to be, I marked it's location and also the outline where I could trim it off to look decent, and then I lifted the body back up, took that all apart, and then positioned and welded the repair piece, and then it was ready for final assembly after a little paint.
Thanks. I was just going to get som big a$$ washers. I have 1 cab mount that is really bad. 3.5 OD washers have a 1.625 hole. and are .188 thick. I would prefer .125 but it is what it is.
I am just going to put the washer in the center of the mounts and go from there. We have to recreate a lot of struccture on the drivers side floorboard. joys of living in Michigan.
 

franklin2

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Washers will work. I have made my own washers out of small pieces of metal. This is a common problem with the larger trucks also. Just make sure if you use washers, you have to use two, one on top of the hole and one on the bottom.
 

IRFANGNOSIS

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Washers will work. I have made my own washers out of small pieces of metal. This is a common problem with the larger trucks also. Just make sure if you use washers, you have to use two, one on top of the hole and one on the bottom.
Thanks for the imput. I did the worst of the mounts, this one was rusted out pretty large. I can weld clean 1/8" metal all day but trying to wel this thin floorpan stuff onto rusty metal is something I need more practice at. Recreating the body mount for the floor came out better than I hoped.
the prothane mounts came today. no sleaves :( , but you were very close. they are 1 5/16 dia. I think given everything else on this truck haveing an 1/8" radial float will be just fine.
 

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franklin2

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I used the prothane also, and I didn't use sleeves. They seemed stiff enough that the bolts and nuts would tighten against them. So far, they haven't come loose. If you are worried about it, you could buy some locking nuts. That is all the sleeve was for, so the original bolts would have something to torque against when they were tightened. You can't tighten a bolt against rubber.

I don't know if I mentioned it in another thread or this one, but get ready for a little bit nosier ride with these harder bushings. You can hear the engine and transmission/driveline a little more, and you get a little more tire noise. But one thing it does is improve the handling. It's a noticeable difference in cornering. Of course part of that is repairing the mount brackets also I guess.
 

IRFANGNOSIS

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mid Michigan
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ford ranger
Transmission
Manual
I used the prothane also, and I didn't use sleeves. They seemed stiff enough that the bolts and nuts would tighten against them. So far, they haven't come loose. If you are worried about it, you could buy some locking nuts. That is all the sleeve was for, so the original bolts would have something to torque against when they were tightened. You can't tighten a bolt against rubber.

I don't know if I mentioned it in another thread or this one, but get ready for a little bit nosier ride with these harder bushings. You can hear the engine and transmission/driveline a little more, and you get a little more tire noise. But one thing it does is improve the handling. It's a noticeable difference in cornering. Of course part of that is repairing the mount brackets also I guess.
This is my kids 1st truck and he doesnt even want to put any carpeting ot flooring in. he wants to hear and fell his vehicle. we are going to spray bedliner on the floor. I am sure that a year from now we will be using home depot frost king duct insulation ans putting at least rubber flooring in.... to quote hoim #save the manuals #save the shitboxes

Hey its his truck.
 

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