Bypassing ignition switch Help 95 manual 2wd

[Yotaismygame]

I will be running a stand alone ecu and I would like to bypass the key switch and just turn the truck on with a toggle switch. I will only need it to power the interior functions and exterior lights. Everything else will be ran through the stand alone.

Also I modified my steering column to except an electric power steering motor. While doing that I damaged the ignition while taking out the lock mechanism. When I attach a battery to the truck everything is already on key in or out. Where can I tap in to control the truck with just a toggle switch?

 

[RonD]

Couple of 30 amp fused relays would be better than one 50amp fused relay
Do NOT use a switch for 50amps, you can use a switch to activate relays

Below are the power diagrams for 1996, don't have 1995 but should the same

On page 1 is the ignition switch, basically just one wire IN from 50mp fuse in engine bay fuse box, yellow wire
Ignition switch powers 4 different OUT wires in ON(RUN) position

Each of these 4 wires powers a GROUP of fuses in the cab fuse box
Red/blue wire is for START ONLY(5th wire)

You need to decide which wires power which fuses and which ones you want to have power
That's your choice
Install relays under the dash as that's where the Yellow wire and other wires from ignition switch are found

Headlight and parking light switch has its own power and fuse in engine bay no connection to ignition switch

 

[Yotaismygame]

Couple of 30 amp fused relays would be better than one 50amp fused relay
Do NOT use a switch for 50amps, you can use a switch to activate relays

Below are the power diagrams for 1996, don't have 1995 but should the same

On page 1 is the ignition switch, basically just one wire IN from 50mp fuse in engine bay fuse box, yellow wire
Ignition switch powers 4 different OUT wires in ON(RUN) position

Each of these 4 wires powers a GROUP of fuses in the cab fuse box
Red/blue wire is for START ONLY(5th wire)

You need to decide which wires power which fuses and which ones you want to have power
That's your choice
Install relays under the dash as that's where the Yellow wire and other wires from ignition switch are found

Headlight and parking light switch has its own power and fuse in engine bay no connection to ignition switch

wow thank you. This should be helpful

 

[Yotaismygame]

What would be the issue with just tossing in a 50amp toggle?

curious if you know why the left blinker doesn’t work at all anymore? Right works fine. Or what I should look at for this issue. Emergency flashers work fine.

last, any issue with cutting off non used plugs and wires? I have a lot of them in the engine bay. Like the main harness that goes to the engine harness.

 

[RonD]

You are low on Blinker Fluid, well the left side is
Its the multi-function switch if lights work with 4-ways
Turn and 4-ways use different contacts inside the switch, but share the same "out to light" wires


As long as you seal the ends of cut wires so they can't short together, or to 12v or ground


Nothing wrong with using a 50amp, at 12volt, switch, just FUSE it at the battery end
Fuse should go as close to the Power Source as practical, and fuse should be below switch rating and WIRE rating
So if switch and wire are rated for 50amps at 12v then use a 40amp fuse

 

[Yotaismygame]

Another question for you. Does the fuse box in the engine bay that connects to the stock starter solenoid always have power? I'm thinking I could make solid connections under the dash for the ignition wires and put a switch before the engine bay fuse box and use that to shut the whole truck down.

 

[RonD]

Not sure I understand the question

Most of the fuses in engine bay fuse box have full time 12volts, as shown in the diagrams, as do some of the cab fuse box fuses

The Yellow wire from fuse 1(50amp) in engine bay already comes into the cab, so use it

If you want to cut all 12volt power then use a 100 amp continuous duty relay on the positive or negative battery cable

 

[Yotaismygame]

Disregard what I said before about the left blinker. The left blinker front and rear do not work at all. Same with the dash indicator for the left. All the fuses are good. Does not work even with emergency button pressed. Right blinker works fine.

 

[RonD]

Then the light blue wire at the flasher or at the multi-function switch is disconnected
Could be disconnected inside the switch as well

 

[Yotaismygame]

Checked the flasher and connections that come off the column. I also ran a jumper wire from the column to the flasher for the blue wire and still nothing. Starting to think it’s the multi function switch.

 

[RonD]

Yes,multi-function switch is a common failure

 

[Yotaismygame]

Ended up being a green/white wire in the multi function switch. Pushed it back in the connector and all is good.
Another question for you Ron. There’s a black box behind the stereo that beeps when the door is open with key in ignition. But I don’t have an ignition switch anymore and would like to cut the wire that sends power to that beeper. Could you help?

 

[RonD]

The Black Box is the GEM module

On the ignition key switch there was a single wire that ran to the GEM
When key was in the ignition that wire would be GROUNDED
If you opened drivers door when that wire was grounded GEM would sound the "chime" so you didn't "lock the keys in the car"

Picture here: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/005_zpsa2cb6a23-jpg.279290/

That's a later model Ranger with PATS transceiver, but you can see the Blue part with the single black wire, thats the "key in ignition" ground wire, cut it and tape the end so it can't ground to any metal

Inside with key cylinder removed: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/attachments/img_0865-jpg.90165/
You could also remove this

The chime/buzzer is inside the GEM on its circuit board, so only way to disable it is to open up the GEM and desolder it
OR disable the inputs that make it chime
Head light switch usually has that as well, reminder to turn off the lights when drivers door is opened