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- Vehicle Year
- 2002
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Ok, since I’ve been playing with my trashed 1354 for a while now, I figured I can try to explain how the mode fork engages the 4x4 and why it might seem not to engage, or doesn’t want to disengage.
Maybe this could be helpful to someone, Here we go.
This is what the pieces look like that engage when the mode fork moves up.
You can see the inner gears, one shined in the main shaft, the other below driving the chain and just spinning on the shaft. Around that is the ring that the mode fork moves.
In this picture the gears are lined up and when the outer ring moves up the front shaft engages.
So far so goo. If the two gears are not aligned
The outer ring will be pushed up, but can’t engage the upper gear until the teeth are aligned. The outer ring is spring loaded, so once the gears line up the system engages.
Until that point it could be that the dash lights indicate the 4x4 is engaged but jou don’t feel it. It’ll take a little bit of slipping of the rear axle to spring the one gear until it aligns with the other.
If sometimes the system doesn’t want to drop out of the 4x4 the reason would be the shear load, or twist between the two gears and the mode fork can’t drop the outer ring down to disengage. I think at this point the torsion spring on the selector shaft takes up the bias between the shaft position and the mode fork location until the friction in the gears drops enough to pull the outer ring down.
This is where the ‘driving backwards’ comes in to reduce the bind.
The bind results from small axle gear differences between front and rear as well as turning of the wheels which increases the effect.
In my opinion the best way to ‘un-bind’ the system would be driving backwards with the wheels turned all the way in one direction. This would create the largest difference between front and rear axle rotation and should produce the desired effect.
Does this makes sense? Any objections, or corrections?
Thanks,
Olivier
Maybe this could be helpful to someone, Here we go.
This is what the pieces look like that engage when the mode fork moves up.
You can see the inner gears, one shined in the main shaft, the other below driving the chain and just spinning on the shaft. Around that is the ring that the mode fork moves.
In this picture the gears are lined up and when the outer ring moves up the front shaft engages.
So far so goo. If the two gears are not aligned
The outer ring will be pushed up, but can’t engage the upper gear until the teeth are aligned. The outer ring is spring loaded, so once the gears line up the system engages.
Until that point it could be that the dash lights indicate the 4x4 is engaged but jou don’t feel it. It’ll take a little bit of slipping of the rear axle to spring the one gear until it aligns with the other.
If sometimes the system doesn’t want to drop out of the 4x4 the reason would be the shear load, or twist between the two gears and the mode fork can’t drop the outer ring down to disengage. I think at this point the torsion spring on the selector shaft takes up the bias between the shaft position and the mode fork location until the friction in the gears drops enough to pull the outer ring down.
This is where the ‘driving backwards’ comes in to reduce the bind.
The bind results from small axle gear differences between front and rear as well as turning of the wheels which increases the effect.
In my opinion the best way to ‘un-bind’ the system would be driving backwards with the wheels turned all the way in one direction. This would create the largest difference between front and rear axle rotation and should produce the desired effect.
Does this makes sense? Any objections, or corrections?
Thanks,
Olivier
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