Build-a-bumper

[85_Ranger4x4]

I have been thinking about building a bumper for years, 6 to be exact when I found a huge chunk of channel iron in a fencerow on my place.

Kinda waffling on if I want to go with that or go with a plate design... plate looks neater IMO and it would be easier to design it to fill in my bodylift gap.

Any pointers or considerations on building a plate one? For mounting?

I am wanting to add a swing out spare tire carrier (for a 31" tire) too, I figure I will need to run a brace to the frame to help support that with a plate design bumper. I don't see the 3/8" thick channel iron needing more support but I do worry about too much weight on the back of the truck.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

3/8" is definitely overkill and is gonna completely change the way the rear of the truck rides down the road..

 

[Shran]

I've done both. Channel is easy to work with in some aspects but if you want custom shapes, etc it becomes challenging to work around the corners where it gets thicker. It's far easier to keep straight while welding... doesn't take much to warp plate, you just need to be mindful of that and brace/clamp appropriately while building with it.

I'd do either method again for sure. Kinda just comes down to what shape I want - if it's relatively flat, straight across, I'll use channel but if there's bends, angles, etc I might do plate instead although there's a lot more welding involved.

3/8 is going to be really heavy. I've used 3/16 on most of my projects and been very pleased with it... and you know how I abuse my junk...

 

[Josh B]

The carbon content could be another consideration, iron does not weld as well, cast actually is best silver brazed if I remember correctly. I'd suggest cutting or welding on it somewhere first to see how well it works before trying to build something with it

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

It is probably steel not "iron" Like angle iron it is kind of a generic term.

I thought the heavy channel iron thing would be fine until the spare tire carrier entered the picture... heavy bumper + tire/rim hanging off the back of the truck probably =

 

[ericbphoto]

You can weld channel just fine. It is not cast.

 

[bobbywalter]

channel at a 30-45 deg pitch with plate doors/boxing on top for chain and strap stowage......or a cow prod..


you need the weight.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Why not a length of the channel for the center (tailgate width) and play with a little tube and plate to finish it out? A hybrid so to speak.

For reference... my 3/16" AOR rear bumper shipped at 60 lbs. Before the tire carrier I'm about to pull together...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

channel at a 30-45 deg pitch with plate doors/boxing on top for chain and strap stowage......or a cow prod..


you need the weight.

Dad had one that doubled as an air tank, that would be nice but a little on the complicated side.

Why not a length of the channel for the center (tailgate width) and play with a little tube and plate to finish it out? A hybrid so to speak.

For reference... my 3/16" AOR rear bumper shipped at 60 lbs. Before the tire carrier I'm about to pull together...

Tailgate width is only like 3" shorter than bumper width?

 

[Uncle Gump]

Tailgate width is only like 3" shorter than bumper width?

The step bumper I just took off has more like 12 inches overall...

You apparently don't have my vision... I believe Mr Bossly did something similar... wrapped around a bit.

But it's your bumper... build it how you want it... aren't many rules.

The more materials you have laying around to use the better.... steel has went crazy since I last messed with fabbing stuff. Or maybe it's because I live in Chicago... everything is pricey around here.

 

[BlackBII]

I am sure you have seen mine, but here it is. I used 4" x 2" tubing, though channel would work the same. In the first pic you can see how I used the factory bumper brackets; I cut the ends off and welded them to my bumper, which made mounting it to the frame super easy. The rear of the frame has a legit crossmember back there, I don't think you'll need to worry about about. I am also going to add a swing out tire carrier sometime so if I do that before you do I'll post a pic. My plan was to use 1.5" tubing with a trailer spindle and bearing as the support/swing.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The step bumper I just took off has more like 12 inches overall...

You apparently don't have my vision... I believe Mr Bossly did something similar... wrapped around a bit.

But it's your bumper... build it how you want it... aren't many rules.

The more materials you have laying around to use the better.... steel has went crazy since I last messed with fabbing stuff. Or maybe it's because I live in Chicago... everything is pricey around here.

Our trucks are different too. The fenders on mine taper down to be not much wider than the tailgate towards the bottom. I think the later trucks have more fluff.

I am sure you have seen mine, but here it is. I used 4" x 2" tubing, though channel would work the same. In the first pic you can see how I used the factory bumper brackets; I cut the ends off and welded them to my bumper, which made mounting it to the frame super easy. The rear of the frame has a legit crossmember back there, I don't think you'll need to worry about about. I am also going to add a swing out tire carrier sometime so if I do that before you do I'll post a pic. My plan was to use 1.5" tubing with a trailer spindle and bearing as the support/swing.

I have actually had those same tow loops to put on a bumper for 10 years or better. I have the same ones on the front right now.

I do like how yours is tucked up nice and tight for a trail truck. I do want to keep my receiver hitch though since I do pull some funky stuff and was planning on the bumper sticking out the sides kinda like the stock bumper so I could have the spindle out of the way of the tailgate.

I have like 5 sketches going so far... most new bumpers look like they fell off a stealth bomber which would add complexity and not really fit with the truck.

I want to be able to drop the tire carrier when not needed so I don't have to deal with it all the time and so I have more room in my tiny garage. Lots of R&D ongoing research so far. I kinda like the looks of this bracket:

Tire Carrier Hinge Kit - with DUAL SHEAR Bracket - STANDARD

This kit includes most of the features of our best selling Standard Duty Hinge Kit (Available Here) with the addition of the following: The dual shear bracket ties in the top of the shaft to the bumper. This isolates movement and flex within the hinge assembly allowing it to handle much more...

www.comp4x4.com

With brass bushings like this spindle:

Tire Carrier Hinge Kit - Dual Shear - Face Mount

This kit is designed to mount onto the face of your bumper at any angle you like. The kit is designed to mount over the top of your bumper. Simply select the height of your bumper at checkout and we we’ll send the length of the bolt and tubing to match. If you are mounting at angles or not using...

www.comp4x4.com

Then I don't have to worry about seals drying out or dirt getting in bearings while the carrier is stored in the corn crib in between trips. Just pop the bracket off, bolt falls out the bottom and the whole works is gone minus four holes in the bumper and the latch catch. Might not be as long lived as real greased tapered roller bearings but it won't be a full time thing so they should last quite awhile.

Good idea on using the stock bumper brackets, that would simplify the mounting.

Or just go tube bumper like an STX...

 

[ericbphoto]

Bronze bushings should be excellent for that application. Think of how many Earth moving machines and farm machines use bushings like that with frequent heavy use in dirty, wet, muddy conditions and they go years between bushings replacements. Simple and inexpensive.

You could consider welding a post on top of your bumper. The tire carrier would have the hole with the bushings. Just drop it over the post. Then too it off with a bolt and big washer to hold it on. Just drill and tap the top of the post to accept the bolt. Or make the post a bit taller and drill through the side to accept a hitch pin above the carrier bushings.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Bronze bushings should be excellent for that application. Think of how many Earth moving machines and farm machines use bushings like that with frequent heavy use in dirty, wet, muddy conditions and they go years between bushings replacements. Simple and inexpensive.

I literally just ordered bronze bushings for an auger hopper last week. Farmer had worn out the flighting on the augers and wanted to replace the bushings and bearings while we were there. The side with the drive has bearings, far end has bushings. Old ones were not really bad, and that is in something that handles grain with a lot of dust/foreign matter and nobody ever looks at unless it A: Doesn't move grain or B: Makes terrible noises... after they get done with it

You could consider welding a post on top of your bumper. The tire carrier would have the hole with the bushings. Just drop it over the post. Then too it off with a bolt and big washer to hold it on. Just drill and tap the top of the post to accept the bolt. Or make the post a bit taller and drill through the side to accept a hitch pin above the carrier bushings.

I have thought about it. The neat thing with the bolt that comes out is there is nothing to snag on when the carrier is not on and it is holding the bushings in the carrier and everything is as sealed up as it is when it is on the truck. No emery cloth needed to sand rust off the pin before it will fit back together. But yeah, it will be a PITA to put the bolt back in while holding the carrier in place... its all in progress and I am still mining the 'net for ideas.

It sounds like the trailer spindles like to break off, it also sounds how the other end of the carrier is supported plays a role but it is kind of inconclusive how much of a role that has.

Really the whole design with a single pivot that is clear at the bottom with that much weight above it bugs me but there isn't much I can do about it.

 

[ericbphoto]

That's why I think the BII carrier is a decent design. It has more support on the hinged end. Seems like one of those could be fitted to the back of a gen 1 or gen 2 Ranger if the bed sides are tall enough.