Bronco II Ignition Coil wire fallen off and won't start?

[Forlorn]

Hello!
So I recently picked up a 1985 Ford bronco 2 2.8l v6 as more of a project vehicle I can learn from. Either way, used to run, but now it doesn't after I gave it a tuneup lol
so I'm trying to track down what got it not starting, So, I've checked for spark on sparkplugs got em, got compression, and fuel, and timing shouldn't be an issue since I did not change that, either way, I took a closer look at a few components and noticed a loose wire from the ignition coil, looking at the diagram, it looked like a positive wire that's probably controlled by the ignition switch, I'm just trying to track down where this wire belongs, it looks like the previous owner had it taped to a stripped wire, and it fell off, but I'm not sure as I did not pay attention to it previously.

Either way, I'm hoping someone can give me an insight or possibly a picture of where this wire should belong.
or if that's not the problem what might keep the car from starting, I got fuel, compression, and spark. if it helps any, it does not sound any different when cranking with the ignition coil off.

the severed or loose wire from the ignition coil. ---------- where I suspect the loose wire was taped too on the exposed wire.-------------wires close to the ignition coil.
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wiring diagrams, I believe it's the Red light green wire from the coil, I just really need a picture of where it's supposed to connect to or a clear description for a color blinded person who doubts every color they see lol

 

[RobbieD]

My guess is that your circled wire used to go to the radio noise capacitor.

 

[Forlorn]

My guess is that your circled wire used to go to the radio noise capacitor.

would you know if this could cause the vehicle from starting? blown fuze, etc since it's oof. id check myself, but my cars are a decent drive away.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

would you know if this could cause the vehicle from starting? blown fuze, etc since it's oof. id check myself, but my cars are a decent drive away.

That dont look like the capacitor wire. That looks like the wire that goes into the coil plug. Theres only 2, a red and green (if its like a 2.9), looks like it just pulled out of the plug.

On the bottom of your coil theyll be a plug, should have 2 wires going to it, red and green. Itll be pretty self explanitory once you look at it.

And no...having the capacitor wire unhooked wont kill it

 

[RobbieD]

If your spark plugs are firing, it's unlikely a wiring problem.

Have you tried spraying starter fluid in it while cranking? (the 50/50 test)

Were the spark plug cables changed?

Here's the radio capacitor on the same coil on an '84 2.8L.

The ignition wire (usually red/green, but can be white/blue or brown/pink) goes to the coil and then a short pigtail, same colors, comes off the terminal for the radio cap. If your radio cap is not there, that's likely your circled short wire. The cap being missing will not keep the engine from running.

 

[4x4prepper]

2.8L Duraspark Conversion - The Ranger Station

Here's how you can get rid of that terrible TFI Ignition and replace it with a Duraspark Ignition. Ford 2.8 Duraspark Distributor Ford Duraspark Ignition Module (Note 2 Connectors Not 3) Distributor Cap Adapter GM Vacuum Switch P/N 14014519 (For A4LD Setups) Optional Harness Parts ECM Harness...

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"The (+) ‘BAT’ side of the Coil is the only place you have to splice into a wire. On the driver’s fender well, there is another connector, square in shape and gray in color that has either a Brown wire with Pink markings or a Red wire with Light Green. These wires should be hot when the key is on. This wire needs to go to the (+) ‘BAT’ terminal on the ignition coil."

"Brown wire with Pink markings " = in sad shape. I would just cut it out for now and replace with a 2 or 4 prong trailer harness and start the vehicle. Obvious the plastic has melted off the wire, probably from high resistance with the connection corrosion seen on the various connectors. If it was me, I would put in a temporary 10 amp fuse with M</F 1/4" connectors to make sure once I made a good connection it did not supply enough power to a short to start a fire because going by Haynes that wire gets direct 12V from the head lamp switch circuit.

 

[Forlorn]

I figured it out finally

 

[Forlorn]

The previous owner threw the distributor in and it was over 100 degrees off and they made their own timing mark and timed it to that so when I redid the plug order to the correct order it was way way off, now that its in time it runs great so far, now I need to get the brakes working lol