Broken seat bolt. What now?

[master hec0]

so im taking the seats out of my 97 ranger to swap in 99 seats. 60/40 now the 2 fronts came out fine but the back 2 on the passenger seat did not. one stripped and the other broke. how am i supposed to get these out? the broken one is broken flush with the floor.

 

[ragajungle]

When I pulled the seats outta my 89 B2 one snapped off flush with the floor too. I wound up heating up with MAPP gas the portion of the bolt under the truck (remove carpet!) and using PB blaster and a Vise grips to back the bolt out. Otherwise you can drill it out.

 

[adsm08]

Yeah, drill it, or heat it, grab the bottom, and turn it out that way. I'd keep going forward. Bring it out the bottom.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Use an 'easy out'. Try to grind what's left flat, center punch, drill with the recommended bit, then use the easy out to remove what's left. I'd recommend the easy outs with the straight splines, much less likely to break in my experience. Also use heat, get it as close to red hot as you can without burning down the truck, first choice oxy/acet, second mapp gas, third propane. The hotter the flame, the less likely you'll catch the surrounding areas on fire. The bolt heats up before the surrounding areas do.
You may also be able to just drill it out with a bit close to the same size as the inner diameter as the bolt, as it's not a blind hole, the bit might catch in the bolt and drive it through.
Good luck,

Richard

edit, I see the other responses have you covered.

 

[master hec0]

i grabbed a tool called grabbit. basically a bolt extactor tool. it failed to do anything.

i guess il go buy a torch and some grips and try that. why the hell did ford hold these seats in with little 10mm bolts. those 4th gen have nice big ones that are easy to remove.

 

[adsm08]

I have never used a grabbit but I know they are junk. I saw an infomercial on them, that means crappy product.

Other turnouts are much much better. I have a snappy set that is nice, but pricey. I also have a cheap set from Sears that I like.

 

[master hec0]

will any of these work?

http://www.princessauto.com/hand-tools/specialty-tools/thread-repair/2926491-5-pc-bolt-extractor-set

http://www.princessauto.com/hand-tools/specialty-tools/thread-repair/2915171-super-out-set

and this one

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/PowerToolAccessories/DrillBitsSetsAccessories/PRD~0543818P/Mastercraft%2BDrill%2BOut.jsp?locale=en

 

[adsm08]

The last ones are exactly like my Sears set. If done right, they should do the job. Read the instructions a few times, they are a bit screwy, but by far the best of those three sets.

Also, make sure to use a corded drill and have that sucker going full bore when you the collet hits the stud.

Also, they don't work well on plastic IAT sensors. They just make a bigger hole in plastic parts.

 

[master hec0]

alright il get that mastercraft one. it has a instructional CD. so it shouldn't be that hard. and i guess il go dig up the old black and decker drill.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

The second [ Lisle brand ] set is what I was describing, they work well for me, but not in soft metals or plastics. The third set I have no experience with.

Richard

 

[master hec0]

since i have some returns to do at princess auto il get that one 1st since there return policy is much better and if that doesnt work il get the mastercraft. also the princess auto one is cheaper.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Those work in both directions too, so I would drive the bolt in the regular direction so it comes out under the truck. That way your not trying to pull the rusty portion through the hole. Don't forget heat.

Richard

 

[adsm08]

Given all that, yeah, I'd go with Floored's set. I've never seen or used them before, but pushing down through the hole is gonna be better. And don't forget, HEAT. Not what you and Bog and the rest of ya'll think of a heat. We mean hundreds of degrees.