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broke a tooth in my rear differential gear box


bubba79

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I replaced my 'rear differential gear oil' a year ago.
I recently noticed my 'rear differential gear cover' was leaking.... some bolts were loose and i just snugged them up.
I popped open the 'fill plug' to top off my gear oil and noticed these two large chunks of metal. is my 'rear differential' going to grenade itself soon? the 'differential gear' was low about 125cc of 'differential gear fluid' I believe it uses about 1500cc of 'gear oil'.

I suppose I could pop off the plug every week to see if anything else starts shredding off. I am also planning on replacing my leaf springs. maybe it is time for a new rear axle as well
/facepalm

I noticed most of the rear axles at pick-n-pull have the rear differential exposed. to the workers just pop the cover off to drain fluids and throw it to the side?
would unskilled engine braking contribute to the damage?
I've been running my ranger with the outer edge of a tooth broke off for years now (Lincoln locked) with no ill effects ..( results may vary)
 


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any idea why there is grease all over this connection that goes to an open hose?

i saw other rangers with smaller pools of grease in the same area
That's just oily dirt. That hose is the vent for the axle and differential. Opposite end of the hose is usually mounted on the frame or higher, with a breather on the end to keep dirt out. The hose is probably old and brittle and allowing oil vapor to exit there and collect dirt.
 

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All you really need is the spider gears from another axle, just make sure it's a 7.5" axle and not an 8.8, very similar but the cross pin hole is a different size I think.
 

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That's just oily dirt. That hose is the vent for the axle and differential. Opposite end of the hose is usually mounted on the frame or higher, with a breather on the end to keep dirt out. The hose is probably old and brittle and allowing oil vapor to exit there and collect dirt.
Hose could be obstructed so it is venting down low as well. Can also cause oil get pushed out of axle seals.
 
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Any advice for picking up an axle with a good set of drum brakes? A used rear rear axle is only $35 more with the drum brakes and it seems like a PITA to swap out my current drum brakes onto a new axle. I havent really found any videos that showcase the process, it seems like it involves disconnecting a piece inside the carrier and then sliding a hub and axle out of the rear end shaft. Are there special tools involved in this process?
 

pjtoledo

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sliding the axle out is only necessary to replace the backing plate, and wheel bearing/seal.
the shoes, springs, levers, wheel cylinders, can all be done without disturbing the axle shafts.
OEMTOOLS Brake Spring Pliers (autozone.com)
a brake spring tool will come in handy. the job can be done without this, but you will need bandages.
 
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messing with the drum brakes seems alittle beyond me. i noticed half the axles at pick n pull have a drum brake cover or two pulled off. any idea why?
 

ericbphoto

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messing with the drum brakes seems alittle beyond me. i noticed half the axles at pick n pull have a drum brake cover or two pulled off. any idea why?
What cover are you talking about? The drum itself?.

Drum brakes really aren't difficult. All you need is a picture or diagram of how the springs and things go together and remember that the adjusters thread opposite to each other. So, driver side must be on driver side and passenger side on passenger side.
 

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All you really need is the spider gears from another axle, just make sure it's a 7.5" axle and not an 8.8, very similar but the cross pin hole is a different size I think.
I 100% agree with this, unless there is damage to the ring & pinion, there is no reason to swap out the entire axle. Snag a set of spider gears from the junkyard or new ones, install & move on with life. Way easier than an entire axle.
 
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Snag a set of spider gears from the junkyard or new ones, install & move on with life. Way easier than an entire axle.
Initially reading up on this, i was under impression that swapping gears inside the differential requires specific tools and precise measurements and not a job for a novice diyer - something about setting up proper 'backlash' and 'tooth engagement'. I recall reading that it is much easier to just replace the axle.

*edit*
i just watched a video on replacing spider gears. It looks if i am only swapping spider gears, i should be fine, the precise tools and measurements are only involved in modifying the pinion and/or ring gear.

I still cannot figure out if i need to dissassemble the drum brakes to do this? it seems like i have to dissassemble the drum brakes from the axle in order to get each hub+shaft out of the axle, and from there i can mess with the differential internals, ya/na?
 
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Uncle Gump

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initially reading up on this, i was under impression that swapping gears inside the differential requires specific tools and precise measurements and not a job for a novice diyer. i recall reading that it is much easier to just replace the axle.

reading back at this thread:
it seems replacing the pinion seal is what is difficult, something about setting up proper 'backlash' and 'tooth engagement'
can i replace spider gears without disrupting pinion bearings?

~edit~ OKAY, JUST WATCHED MORE VIDEOS:
looks like i should be able to *somewhat easily* remove my carrier housing and replace those gears inside, ya?
You don't have to remove the carrier for side gears.

Just pull the axles... pull the spider gear pin and spiders... replace the side gears. Spider gears will have to be "rolled" back in place to install the pin. Not a horrible job to do.
 
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Just pull the axles...
does this involved messing with the drum brakes? im still trying to find a video on removing 'axles'
(by 'axles', do you mean the shafts connected to the hubs inside of the axle?)
 

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You just have to remove the drums. Backing plates and all the brake hardware stay put.
 

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