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Brake drum stuck


Paisano

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I ran into a problem while working on rear axle assembly replacement. I can't get one of the brake drums off. If I can't get it off today, I'll have to sever the parking brake cable to remove the old axle assembly. My drum brake adjusting spoon was stolen. So maybe it's because I was using a screwdriver. I'll walk to the auto parts store to buy one today.

If I have to cut the parking brake cable, I hope it's not hard to find a replacement.

Any ideas in case I still can't remove the drum? Is it because I was not using the standard tool while backing off the adjusting screw?
 
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RonD

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Could be rusted to the axle plate between lug studs
Block front wheel so vehicle can't roll
Put trans in Neutral
See if you can rotate drum
If so then shoes are not holding it on

Use a drift(metal rod) and wack it with a hammer between lug studs
And hit the drum as you rotate it
 

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Does the drum move at all? If not, it might be rust locked to the axle hub. You can try heating up the drum face with a torch. An acetylene torch is better but a propane torch will work in a pinch.

The yellow bottles are better than regular propane but I’m forgetting what they are called.

Anyway, it might take a heat cycle or two of heating and cooling to get the rust bond to break. You will hear a pop or click when it breaks.

If the drum moves, then it’s probably the shoes hanging up on the rust ridge that builds up and working the adjuster is pretty much all you can do. You might have to spray some lube on the adjuster to get it to move freely and clean up the mess after you get the drum off.

Unless the parking brake cable is hanging up in it’s casing, cutting the cable won’t help any. Disconnecting it at the junction under the cab might loosen things up some to help with the job.
 

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Another thing you can do but it’s on the sketchy side is to loosen the lug nuts some and take it for a drive. This is only something I would do in a not so busy, residential area. Sometimes the force from making turns is enough to break the rust bond.
 

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The drum does not move at all on that side. It moves on the other side where I easily removed the drum..

The reason I am saying I might have to cut the parking brake cable....so I can remove the old rear axle assembly (with backing plates) to return the core. The cable is basically 'tethering' the axle assembly. They do sell replacement parking brake cables.

Remember, I'm doing a rear axle assembly replacement which includes the backing plates. I just returned from the auto parts store. I'll resume shortly.
 

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It would be better to get the drum off of course, but yes you can get new parking brake cables

There are two in the rear, one for each wheel, these are the longer more expensive cables, they both run up to drivers side frame rail under the back of the cab where they connect to the shorter cable that goes into the cab

Remove the cable at the under the cab end and see if its free to move, should slide in and out a bit, if not then its rusted/stuck so you would have to replace it anyway
 

Paisano

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I could not get the brake drum off. It was holding up my rear axle assembly replacement. So I cut the parking brake cable. Then I removed the old axle assembly and put it in the core return container.

Tomorrow, I am going to get the new assembly hooked up tomorrow. I am doing this without any help, so I couldn't lose too much time on the brake drum.

I might have a question about that tomorrow under posting 475,000 mile F7 rear axle

I'll order a new parking brake cable.
 
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Paisano

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I need the parking brake lever from the old backing plate to switch over to the new one, And I can't get to it because that drum is stuck. These are extremely expensive if they're even available at all.

These drum brakes should be eliminated altogether. And they should be required by law to make these parts readily available by 3rd party sellers. These are BRAKE parts. What the hell?

Why do we still have drum brakes? Disc brakes perform better and are easier to work on.

So now I have to drive without a parking brake?
 

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Junk yards are the cheapest option for the parking brake levers. I have yet to see one go bad so this is the best option to get your hands on them.
 

ekrampitzjr

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Something bothers me here. The OP is in Phoenix. If the truck has been there most of its life, would rust really be likely to be the cause? Why just on one side?

I think the cause is going to turn out to be something else—maybe something has worked loose and jammed, etc. You might have to resort to the other kind of liquid wrench to get the drum off.
 

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Manufacturers agree to provide service parts for 10 years. Once gone... they're gone. If there is enough demand the aftermarket picks up those parts.

Take a bigger hammer to that drum... I use a 3 lb ball peen... never had but one not come off... in about 40 years. Give it a couple serious blows... not between the studs... not on the outside where the brake surface is... but on the corner where the brake surface meets the face. And hit it like you mean it!!!
 

Paisano

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Yeah, Something with the drum brake hardware could be jammed. I was inspecting the drum brakes a few months ago and I had difficulty removing that same drum.

Something was also broke or damaged inside the rear axle pumpkin. I wonder if that was causing difficulty in removing the drum? I was not able to jiggle the drum.

What if I drill out the brake shoe pins on the rear of the backing plate? Might that help?

Someone claimed that Omix-Ada part# 16751.12 parking brake lever for Jeep worked on their Ford Ranger. It looks exactly like mine. It's not expensive and I might
give it a try.

I'm going to bang on it like Uncle Gump says
 
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Uncle Gump

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Well if the drum wiggles... it isn't seized. The hammer banging won't help.

I have a sturdy pair of side cutters... I slip them behind the head of the hold down spring pins... then squeeze. That will help you wiggle the drum off over the shoes.
 

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I had to cut a drum off using a grinder with a thin cut off wheel. I ground almost all the way thru then broke it apart with pry bars and heavy hammer.
 

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