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Body Lift?

detty_motorsports

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cool.... ya i was just talkin to my father in law an he said that same thing about the harsh ride....
 


whocares

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The poly bushings transmit more vibration, but thats because they are stiffer and dont compress or absorb vibes like rubber. I really noticed it a lot on the F-bodies that I have owned and installed poly on. I never used poly body mounts, but the other bushings were noticeable. I doubt with the Bronco we will notice much vibration, but it seems like it should firm things up a bit. I think I'm going to do them with the body lift. I think any difference noted would be positive considering the age of the vehicle and the deterioration of the factory mounts.

Ron
 
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LittleHorse

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I haven't used poly mounts yet...I plan on it because I LOVE poly bushings. I had a '76 Datsun 280Z that I went through every single suspension bushing and replaced with poly. The ride became a little firmer but it got so TIGHT. Felt like a brand new car.

Maybe I'm missing something here, but compare our trucks to a unibody car. They have no separate frame and body, it's one piece, so the only vibration isolation they have from the engine and transmission is the engine and trans mounts anyway...so even with poly mounts on a truck, you've got one more level of vibration isolation than you would in any modern car. The car does usually have a rubber pad between the spring and the body, but that's easy enough to install on our trucks if it bothers you that much.
 

detty_motorsports

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i think i am going to go with poly mounts :icon_thumby:
 

whocares

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Littlehorse, your right. I had forgotten the unibody vs. body on frame difference. Dont get me wrong, I like the poly stuff and its always done what I expected from it. Its not like my BII is going to ride like a caddy anyway, nor do I want it to. I think I'm going to do the poly mounts with the body lift when I do it.

Ron
 

detty_motorsports

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ron have u decided where u are gettin your lift.....
 

whocares

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Not yet, I'm actually still trying to decide between 2 inch or three inch. I'm leaning towards 3 a little...what about you?
 

LittleHorse

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my personal preference is 2", just beause I'm not a big fan of the whole body/frame/bumper gap/fan guard issue created, and it annoys me having a huge wall of fenders and core supports to reach over to get to the engine that's still at frame level.

If I wasn't planning on a 302 swap, I wouldn't do a body lift at all, but since I am I'll do a 2". I'm buying mine from JD along with poly body mounts because all the other 2" lifts are for some reason about $50 more than the 3". Buying all the parts later this month, and waiting to actually do the work until it warms up a little bit.
 

detty_motorsports

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i wonder why the 2" costs more then the 3" :icon_confused: :icon_confused:
 

trail B2

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I put on a 2" James Duff kit about a year and a half ago.The only problems I had were I had to elongate the slot for the manual transfer case shifter to get it into 4 high.The bolts in the front by the radiator were a little different and took a torch to get out.Also I pulled the carpet in the back and put the impact on the bolts to see gas start pouring out where the bottom washer cut the gas line. If you have a full shroud cut the bottom out so the fan clears.All that being said I would sure do it again it's helped in my motor tranny mods and helped me have room to flush mount a winch in front.I think the 3" would leave very apparent gaps front and back.
 

detty_motorsports

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i shouldnt have any issues with the t case shifter and the fan... my t case is bush button and i think im going with an electric fan...
 

lil_Blue_Ford

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I did poly bushings and a 2" BL on my choptop, got both from Duff. Had to replace the bodymounts because it wouldn't pass inspection and had to cut all of the bolts out, seemed easier to just order a 2" BL and get the bolts, lol.

I didn't really notice any difference in ride quality either.

I did, however, add extra washers to the BL kit. I put flat washers top and bottom on all of the bolts and a lock washer plus locktite. Perhaps a bit of overkill... I'll see about grabbing a pic if I remember.

Oh, yea, the hardest bolts to do were the ones in the back. I've heard a lot of people say you have to drop the gas tank to do them. I found that I could worm my hand in there and get it together, then cut down a deep well to make a shorty deep socket and tightened it up.
 

LittleHorse

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i wonder why the 2" costs more then the 3" :icon_confused: :icon_confused:
get it at jamesduff.com, their 2" costs the same as the 3" does anywhere else, about $110.

As for why the 2" everywhere else costs $50 more, I can only assume because the 3" is more popular.
 

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