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Blender Door Blues


MaicoDoug

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Ranger FX4 LVL2
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4.0 V6
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2 inches in the back, not enough in the front
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31x10.5x15
Hello Ranger aficionados,

As you all know this dreaded piece of ford engineering is designed to make you buy another truck, that is why we all have THAT one. The one with the bad blender motor and possibly a shredded blender door. (they don't shred, it simply ends up with a broken drive socket. The new ones have a metal coupler so the old style still reigns, but with the steel coupling, life is good. Or so it would seem.....

The symptoms are that the AC only works in the MAX position. Huh. Any other position of the vent selector makes hot air. Also while in the MAX position, the hot water going to the inside (passenger compartment) is turned off with a vacuum operated shutoff valve. Good idea. So many of us have discovered upon further investigation that in fact the valve is operating correctly, not operating at all, & the driving vacuum source has issues such as a weak & leaking supply line. Repair of vacuum leak will make your motor run better hint hint.

The part number that in stock at my local advanced auto store is a "Dorman" number.....604-203". This is what they had. Using the number"YL5H-19E616-AC" This replacement motor assembly comes with a longer drive tang. So do this.....and take pictures for reference, and not of your skinned hands.

Removal: This is primarily for the screwed in/down version
1) Open the glove compartment, pull the glove box down while pushing the inner sides towards the center with your thumbs then remove with 2ea mounting fasteners remove the entire glove compartment (the GC).
2) Remove the electrical plug by unlocking the housing, and placing aside
3) Find yourself a 1/4" drive ratchet. 1ea 5/16 -12 point socket that will be shortened by apx 5/16" with some sort of grinder, or a belt sander works. Do this safely.
4) Remove the front mounting screws. There is one in the center rear. This is the only thing left in the way of you having AC or not.
5) Practice placing your hand back there. Notice that there is some sort of sharp surface digging into the back of your hand. You may elect to bust that out. Get a hammer & a screwdriver. I used a 5 lb shorty hand sledge and a shorty large slotted screw driver. Took 3 tries. The material is some sort of grey composite, soft actually. Did not have to hit as hard at all as most of the work was accomplished on the first strike. A chisel would also work. Clean up the edges.
6) Tie a string to your ratchet, very small string but strong. 20 lb fishing line is perfect. Because loosing a ratchet inside the ventilation system is a bummer.
7) Using a shortened socket & a 1/4" ratchet works to remove that rear fastener. And don't drop that damned ratchet inside like I did. You may want to have second ratchet & socket nearby. Pull out the old controller. Plug it in, start the truck, see if you can move the shaft while inputting different temperature settings. If it works, I take it apart, clean & re-grease. You then likely have a broken dampener door. Look for pieces on the shaft.

You may want to take the controller apart & verify that a part has failed inside to find additional motivation to drive to the auto store & back. Or send the old lady and get some tacos.

Installation:
1) Get the part (hopefully the correct part, not the one that we have here)
2) Notice that the part has an extended drive tang (with gussets)
3) Find a old shoe box or some combination of 90 degree surface angles to represent the exact new & old drive tang modifications. And then hack it off in a vice.
4) Next step is very important, it won't engage into the blender door yet. Aquire some sort of dremil & sanding drum. Sand off the gussets down to almost the enclosure. Look at what has to be done carefully as you are contouring something by eye because it could be a big difference in system performance.
4b) Reach back inside and retrieve the lost ratchet.
5) Install the new controller with the connection out front and while turning the temperature selector using very light force, let the new controller engage the drive tang into the dampener door. Remember the gussets molded into the lowest section right up to the housing on 3 separate sides right? And you sanded these down real well right? Don't know if the center needs cleaning out but I did anyway. Once the shaft was finish sanded (w/dremil).
5) Re-install the 3 fasteners (or not). I admit, I installed the front 2 and skipped the rear. Maybe one day. I'll tape it to the inside of the glove compartment. Re-install the glove compartment. Enjoy the nicely working climate control. Also, don't forget to top off the Freon if needed.

Here are a couple of pictures also.

47938


47939


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cbxer55

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MIne has been doing the hot air thing for many years. Fortunately for me, I prefer driving with the windows down. So I haven't bothered to fix it and likely never will. I've had my Lightning 11 years and never used the ac once. Mustang since November last year and haven't turned the ac on yet.
 

MaicoDoug

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2007
Make / Model
Ranger FX4 LVL2
Engine Type
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Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2 inches in the back, not enough in the front
Tire Size
31x10.5x15
I'm located 100 some miles from the warm & humid gulf coast. Darn'ed good seafood comes from there.

-Doug
 

RonD

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Yes, the electric Blend Door actuator was added to Rangers(and many Fords) in 1995, 1994 and earlier used a cable and slider control to move the blend door

Electric operation would allow for automatic temperature "climate control", which Rangers never got, lol
 

MaicoDoug

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2007
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Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2 inches in the back, not enough in the front
Tire Size
31x10.5x15
Exactly, I smell a backlash! Heck, in my '83, I had leaves flying out of the vents. The slider & cable are fool proof, so perfect for the "new" engineering lab with industrial engineering experience, OH BOY!

Anyway, my out of pocket was $40 and a bunch of swearing at FoMoCo. I wish I could mod the blower motor to make less noise. At least I was able to snag the "lost ratchet" from the inside and I have big hands, so it's possible I guess.
 

OldBlue61

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I'm a couple of months late to this party :whistle:, but my '94 has the issue with not only A/C not working (along w/ the CC, which I'll troubleshoot this weekend), but also the inability to adjust where the heated air goes. The fan motor was replaced recently, so I've got that going for me, but I'm assuming I've got the dreaded blend door issue. How do I know for sure? I'm assuming mine is cable operated being a '94.
 

RonD

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I'm a couple of months late to this party :whistle:, but my '94 has the issue with not only A/C not working (along w/ the CC, which I'll troubleshoot this weekend), but also the inability to adjust where the heated air goes. The fan motor was replaced recently, so I've got that going for me, but I'm assuming I've got the dreaded blend door issue. How do I know for sure? I'm assuming mine is cable operated being a '94.
No, not a blend door issue and yes in 1994 its cable operated

The blend door doesn't control defrost, panel or floor air flow direction, it just sends air from fan thru the heater core or around the heater core, so temp only control, not flow direction related

Defrost, panel and floor are controlled by 2 vacuum "motors"
Defrost is the default direction, so no vacuum = defrost all the time

Vacuum for the cab vents comes from a smaller vacuum reservoir that sits on top of the heater box in engine bay, at least it does on my 1994 Ranger 4.0l
Its a black plastic cylinder with rounded ends that has two vacuum hoses connected
One vacuum hose goes to the intake manifold and the other runs thru the firewall and to the Climate control panel in the cab
Check these hoses in the engine bay, they can crack and break so no vacuum in the cab
 

OldBlue61

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Thanks. I will look at the hoses this weekend and see which ones are bad/deteriorated/cracked/fubared. After 27 years I'm sure a lot of them are!
 

RonD

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Ford was using the hard plastic vacuum hoses in 1994 and they dry out and crack, they can be replaced with "rubber" hoses or spliced with "rubber" hoses
The hard plastic was just cheaper to use and could be "pre-formed" so no bends that could kink
They could also be color coded for easy routing/assembly in later years
 

OldBlue61

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225/70R14
Got it. Appreciate the info and help! Got a better idea on what to look for! (y)
 


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