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Best option for increasing HP?


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So, this stock '96 XLT, 4.0l V6 4×4 seems a little anemic, especially when going up hills. And especially when loaded down with gear for weeks or months of living in it while I play outside.
I would like to rectify that. Have thought about a crate motor, 245hp or so. But want to balance cost with benefit, not sure if that is smartest route. Or if my stock transmission would be able to remain, which other than some problem with 1st and reverse being hard to get into at times, has zero issues. Replaced clutch about 40k back.
So want more power, and plan to upgrade bumpers, with a winch up front. And need to find another shell, if anyone has a recommendation for someplace in or near Reno.
But what would you (the collective "you") recommended if it was your rig?

This is the only identifier I see on transmission.
IMG_20230206_130840338.jpg


Also, I would have to find a trustworthy shop as I am not much of a man when it comes to mechanical stuff.
 


franklin2

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I recommend getting a larger truck. You have the holy grail of engines, the mighty 4.0 that everyone wants to swap in their truck. If that is not enough, I would graduate to something bigger like a full size of some sort.
 
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Thanks franklin. I've considered that, but I know I have a reliable vehicle with no end in sight. And what I'd spend for a full size with a lift and limited slip rear differential would take more time and money than upgrading this. And I like the smaller profile. I believe this motor stock off the showroom floor is only 160hp. The 245hp of a new crate would be plenty more, but wonder if it is best way to get there.
And I just really like my truck! Kinda weird with my attachments that way.
 

pjtoledo

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that tag is for the transfer case, not the transmission.

what are the axle gear ratios?
 

Josh B

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You might consider re-gearing the differential, they talk a lot about 3.73s and 4.10s, you might look into what you have now and what the other, or an other, might offer
 
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don4331

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Thanks franklin. I've considered that, but I know I have a reliable vehicle with no end in sight. And what I'd spend for a full size with a lift and limited slip rear differential would take more time and money than upgrading this. And I like the smaller profile. I believe this motor stock off the showroom floor is only 160hp. The 245hp of a new crate would be plenty more, but wonder if it is best way to get there.
And I just really like my truck! Kinda weird with my attachments that way.
What sort of engine are you getting with 245hp? What are the transmission and axle codes off the door (Federal) sticker e.g T under Trans and R7 under axle

The max for 4.0 OHV was 160hp; the 4.0 SOHC gets you 205 hp (at much higher rpms) and you need much newer computer than is in your '96.
 

scotts90ranger

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So you have a manual transmission I'll assume since you put a clutch in it, but what tire size are you running? Do you know the gear ratio? If it has 3.55 gears and you have 33" tires then yeah it is going to feel gutless, and if you haven't adjusted the speedometer gear it's going to be way off screwing with your perception of speed...

For getting into first and reverse while stopped, bump the shifter to second and or fourth (not likely in gear but it bumps different gear teeth) then back to first or reverse, should help, the synchro's can't do anything when the shafts aren't spinning...

I'm guessing the crate motor you are talking about is a 302 or something, it's doable but would be a few thousand to get a shop to swap in... and would likely need transmission and other stuff, Ford used different transmission patterns for almost every engine they ever made with a few exceptions (2.8/2.9/4.0L, the Windsor series and I'm sure there's more but it's not like the GM engines of yesteryear that all had the same bellhousing pattern...)
 
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Axle gears are 3.73, and it's limited slip.
tires 31 × 10.50 r15.
Transmission is manual 5spd od. Not sure which one, or if there were different ones for the year. 4r44e?
Maybe I am misinterpreting the 245hp of a crate motor. Aw, maybe that's the displacement? I just saw the "245" and thought hp, but I bet it's ci. My bad.
My understanding is the 4.10 gears for rear diff would increase my highway RPM. Although in od I hover around 3000, so I've room to spare, huh? Would it be an effective way to make it struggle less up those mountains? And don't really care if it reduces my practical hwy speed. I never really exceed 70 anyway. Would mpg be affected? Definitely wouldn't mind the effect on the off-road driving.
Maybe I should just leave it be. It's dependable and durable, gets me where I want to go (mostly) without worry. Just always looking to do better I guess. But do not want to go full size, so maybe I just need to accept it's limitations.

Thanks for the tip on shifting!
 
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Northidahotrailblazer

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Axle gears are 3.73, and it's limited slip.
tires 31 × 10.50 r15.
Transmission is manual 5spd od. Not sure which one, or if there were different ones for the year. 4r44e?
Maybe I am misinterpreting the 245hp of a crate motor. Aw, maybe that's the displacement? I just saw the "245" and thought hp, but I bet it's ci. My bad.
My understanding is the 4.10 gears for rear diff would increase my highway RPM. Although in od I hover around 3000, so I've room to spare, huh? Would it be an effective way to make it struggle less up those mountains? And don't really care if it reduces my practical hwy speed. I never really exceed 70 anyway. Would mpg be affected? Definitely wouldn't mind the effect on the off-road driving.
Maybe I should just leave it be. It's dependable and durable, gets me where I want to go (mostly) without worry. Just always looking to do better I guess. But do not want to go full size, so maybe I just need to accept it's limitations.

Thanks for the tip on shifting!
If you had to regear I would go 456s. That way if you did jump to lets say a 33 it would be ok. You would definitely know a difference. Everyone says they never want to go with a bigger tire but well we all want bigger..... Deeper gears will help.

1675746535631.png
 

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Yeah you aren't likely to find a 245 hp 4.0L crate motor. The 4.0L is ~245ci which is probably what you were seeing.

I've considered that, but I know I have a reliable vehicle with no end in sight.
...and once you replace the engine (even for a "crate motor") that known reliability is gone. You've changed a major variable and introduced an unknown.

Your safest and easiest solution to retain reliability would be regear as suggested. Highway RPM wil increase, you can easily offset that by slowing down. It sounds like you spend most of your time in hilly/mountianous terrain with a load. The gear change is going to make it pull thise hills better and as a result probably increase gas mileage in that terain.
 

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Everyone says they never want to go with a bigger tire but well we all want bigger.....
I call bull on that. I was at 32s. I dropped down to ~30. I'd like to go 29s. I'm also planning to drop from 4.10 to 3.73. Of course my goals are different than most people posting in this subforum.

Regarding the gear change, I'd also throw out that you can probably find a set of used 4.10 geared axles locally to swap in for a lot less than buying a new set of 4.56 gears and having them installed. Do that and save the stockers, then if you decide later to go bigger tire and more gear, you've got a spare set to build up while still driving the truck. At least that's what I'd do if I were builng a truck like yours.
 
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Fantastic reeeeally appreciate all the knowledge and advice! Sounds like regearing the diff is the way to go.
How do I interpret the color code on the graph? I see my current 31's are in the red with 4.56, red usually means bad? I have thought about putting 33's on, not entirely sure what that would mean mpg, handling, performance wise. But would definitely be beneficial for how and where I like to take it.
Don't want to kill MPG or regularly operate at borderline RPM. Overall, I want it to be reasonable on pavement, because that's where most of its time is spent. But only because I have to drive pavement to reach dirt. I'm more concerned with off-road performance. But not looking to go super rock crawler. As is, I've went down the flint trail (?) In canyonlands maze district once. Never, ever again. Pucker factor was high. But it performed. But that is also beyond what I would ever be willing to do again.
 

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@Roert42 slapped a blower on his for moar power.

The red on that graph is telling you the rpms are a bit higher than ideal at 60mph I'm relatively sure.
 

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31" tires are way too tall for 3.73 gears on that engine. You need to be at least with 4.10s and 4.56s as suggested above is not a bad idea either. That will give you effectively 10% or 22% more torque than you now have, which is a huge deal.
 

2011Supercab

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Problem with that graph, It must be using a transmission final drive of 1:1 not over drive and a cruising speed of 65 mph.

My truck in overdrive at 65 mph and 3:73 gears with 30 tires = is about 2100 RPM.

That chart is saying I should be 2715 RPM
 

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