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Beefing up and smoothing out the M5od.

schlutzer

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I dont personally like this tranny much. it shifts like a friggen dump truck. but I'm now left with two options. which is better?

I'm about to do a 2.3T swap from a turbocoupe which has a t5 according to this website that tranny is rated for ~240 lb/ft. but I know they shift smoother and are more popular.

My truck now is a n/a 2.3 with the m5od. clutch = very unhappy. makes a growling noise when depressed. sometimes. lol.

I have a second 2.3t thats being rebuilt and my goal is a 350-400hp beast. Which tranny in the long run will be the better option? and what can be done to smooth the shifts and strengthen the m5od? I'd like it to feel like a sportier tranny. anybody whos shifted a t5 compared to the m5 knows what I mean.


So basically once my motor is done it will be stronger than either of these tranny's are rated for but since I will have both. which is the better option, to rebuild, and strengthen, especially when it comes to longevity
 


Ozwynn

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that growling sound is throw out bearing and possibly the disk is still making contact with the flywheel. sounds like you need a new clutch or atleast a new master/slave cylinder. M5odr1 is a good transmission butt it wont stand up to a 2.3 turbo so the T5 is the better choice...... but for the short run you have clutch issues and not tranny issues. all the issues you have with the transmission can be blamed on the clutch.
 

Beanmachine7000

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If it's going to stay 2wd I'd stay with a T-5, just because it's so much smoother, BUT the M50D-R1 has a lot going for it... I'm not that convinced with the T-5 being any stronger than your M50D-R1... You might try finding a short throw shifter (I think B&M makes one) for the M50D-R1... I think if you're gunning for 400hp with your 2.3T you might have to look into getting a different tranny (maybe an auto)... I think at 400hp you'd be shifting pretty quick, and an automatic transmission will help keep your turbo spooled up better than a 5-spd would...
 

schlutzer

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its definitly staying standard. I HATE auto lol having to drive the gfs or parents cars kill me cause they are auto.

So basically which one will be the better bang for my buck to make it able to handle the 2.3T?

I've heard things about putting m5od-r2 guts into the r1 case making it stronger but this tranny is so hard to shift fast and smooth. and its not just mine ive driven other rangers/explorers.

anybody know of build kits for the m5od? wonder what they would do for the strength and smoothness of it.

I would LIKE to stay with one of these two tranny's but I realize that I may have to get something completely different. What would be a good option as far as a totally different tranny to mount to my 2.3T?

I havent tried powershifting it because I've read many times that the m5 just won't take it.
 

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Well, honestly I don't see a 400hp 2.3T with a 5-spd being a streetable vehicle, or a good dragger... Maybe 300hp would be more streetable... My Camaro is automatic, and I wouldn't have it any other way, it whips up on any manual vehicle (I don't have to let off the gas to switch gears)... If you are really determined to keep it stick I would think about just keeping the T-5 and only pushing 250-300hp...
 

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What you really "need" for happiness is a '98-up 4cyl trans.

the stock shifter on these isn't any better mechanically than
any '94-up M5OD-R1, but the different stub lever and hand lever
place the shift knob about 1.5" further back so shifting to fifth
doesn't feel like you are gonna throw your arm into the glovebox.

AND like all 1994-up Mazda's the aftermarket shifters fit them directly

Internally there are also differences.... 2nd & 3rd have assymetrically
cut synchro dogs basically reducing the tendency of the synchro
to "Get in the way" when trying to shift quickly.
These are also equipped with composite friction material lined synchro rings
greatly reducing wear on the rings and thus maintain shoft quality.

IF you are used to the earlier Mazda's there is something of a
learning curve with the newer style synchro, most important is
learning to IGNORE the typical engagement "chunk"

Basically the "saw tooth" shape of the tooth allows the collar to ride
into the synchro and engage the "flat" side of the dogs and "Capture"
the collar.

SFAIK these were only ever used on 2nd and 3rd gear.

AD
 

schlutzer

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yeah I forgot to mention my truck is an '88 lol the "throwing your arm intot he glovebox" comment made me laugh because tis so true.

but okay that newer tranny is still the m5od so how much power can these really take? I doubt ill actually end up with a 400 hp engine but we shall see only time can tell.

if the newer m5od is THAT much better of a tranny itll be off to the junkyards tomorrow to see what i can find.
 

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The M50D-R1 and the M50D-R2, despite super similar designations, are two entirely different transmissions. I'm very certain that no parts will interchange between the two.

The R2's were used in fullsize trucks, and are alot larger than the R1's.
 

schlutzer

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the m50d r2 was not only used in the full size trucks. the sticky on this page even says taht it was used in late model explorers and rangers
 

4x4RangerGuy

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They are clunky, but it's a truck. Who cares as long as it works, right? You just get used to it after a while.
 

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the m50d r2 was not only used in the full size trucks. the sticky on this page even says taht it was used in late model explorers and rangers
That page needs to be corrected. The M5OD R2 has never been stock in any RBV.
 

Captain Ledd

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the m50d r2 was not only used in the full size trucks. the sticky on this page even says taht it was used in late model explorers and rangers
Sorry, but I'm still very certain that they were only used in full size Fords, it is possible on some other Mazda or other application, but not in an RBV in any way.

I read through the sticky and did not see anywhere it mentions that late model Rangers used this transmission. I did find mention of an M50D-R4, but I have no idea what the difference is.

There is no mentioning of an R2 in The Tech Library <clicky. The other link (<clicky as well) at the top of this forum doesn't mention it either, and specifically says at many points that the M50D-R1 "is the only manual transmission on (insert vehicle) to be used with this engine"

I have seen both in person, there is no way R2 internals will fit in a R1 case.

*edit: Apparently Fastpakr beat me to the punch while I was typing, possibly fixing pages even as I was reading...
 
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fastpakr

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I believe this is the page in question. It may not be referenced from the main page any more, but it's obviously still hosted.
 

schlutzer

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Actually i think it was my mistake. I meant the m5od - r1HD.

and to the "who cares its a truck" comment. I will be doing a 2.3T conversion. lowering. and essentially doing all i can to make it sporty. a clunky tranny doesnt quite fit in that category. nor do i think it will be strong enough to last very long behind the turbo motor by the time I'm done with it.
 

ShotnVA777

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I know its a FREAKIN OLD post... But this is catching my eye HARD and would like to know what the outcome was? No one ever answered the transmissions capabilities either.....?

★... With that said, can someone give me the "LOWDOWN" on the STOCK 1997, M5OD-R1, 5 Speed Transmission?!?!?!★

I'm running a 2.3T out of a 1987 Thunderbird, with the plans to be RIGHT AT 250-300HP! I'm grabbing a 6 Puck Performance Clutch AND a new flywheel to try to "beef it up" a little! I ALSO have an 8.8 (Explorer Posi Axle) with the 3.73 Rearend in the arsh!

★SO.... question BEING; will this be ENOUGH to push my single cab XLT? I'm using the FRESHLY rebuilt (with some head/manifold porting/polishing) Turbo Coupe motor as if it were still in the Thunderbird, I'm essentially "piggybacking" the ENTIRE LA3 off the Ranger's ECU - nice and simple (FOR NOW!) :D

So, any answer to my question about the integrity of this tranny/rearend swap w/ this 150+ more HP than stock motor bolted to it and its BRAND NEW 6 Puck and Flywheel?!
 

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