Bad solenoid, starter, connection, ignition switch, or something else

[James Morse]

I have consistent behavior that turning key to 'start' results in only a click from solenoid. New battery, tests at about 12.6V, it was 12.4 when I got it, charged it a bit.

I do not know enough about it to know if click from solenoid means it's good or means nothing. To replace solenoid is not expensive but I assume I would have to remove starter and I'm wondering if since I have to take it off maybe it would be wise to get starter rebuilt (if I can still find a place) or more likely just put in new/rebuilt one. It doesn't look like it's very hard to get it out and I think I can get under the truck without jacking it up, but I can do that if I have to.

But before I take it out I want to make sure I am not just dealing with a crappy connection somewhere so I will visually look at them and I can test for continuity (resistance should be zero or low). I would disconnect the battery, then check from red battery connector to starter and also the ground side, if they are not continuous that would be an obvious problem and should be fixable even if I have to get new cables.

1. Check for continuity in cables. If one/both bad, replace cables (looks like about $70). Should be able to do this without removing starter. Ron already suggested testing these and I haven't done it yet.
2. If still no-go, replace solenoid (about $30). Would consider just replacing starter, looks like $100-170, it has new solenoid with it of course.

Solenoid area all covered in oil. Don't know if that matters. I suppose since it's under the oil filter that will happen. Trying to test for continuity.

There are two connections nearer the firewall for the harness, I assume that is from the ignition switch and would be open normally but closed if key in start position. Am I correct about this. Don't have a reason to suspect ignition switch right now but who knows.

 

[rumblecloud]

Just to clarify, the gizmo on the fender well is a relay (oftentimes referred to as a solenoid, but not to be confused with the solenoid on the starter motor). Both can result in the click you are referring to. Bad connections or failed part. Start with the bad connections. You've already replaced the battery so you should have an idea of the connections there.

The relay connections are easy. Start there. Make sure they are clean and tight.

The ones on the starter are PIA. They are difficult to get at, but not impossible. Disconnecting them, cleaning them and then reconnecting them will help rule that out.

Checking the continuity ? I suppose. A couple of long jumpers and you can do that by yourself.

It's just that thing about "while you're down there" -- and you disconnected the wires from the starter, you may as well remove the starter and bench test it. that will tell you if the solenoid is working - moving in and out and spinning. You can also check the teeth on starter and the flywheel (or flexplate).

I'm rambling now, but there's not much else you can do. If there is, I'm sure someone will post it.

 

[RonD]

1999 Ranger with V6(3.0l or 4.0l) was first year for PATS as standard equipment
1998 Ranger is when a Starter Relay was added INSIDE the engine fuse box
So no longer on the inner fender
Any thing connected directly to Battery positive on inner fender is a power distribution point, no longer a relay(or solenoid, lol)

So in 1999 there should be TWO "clicks" when starting
One is the Starter relay in the fuse box
Next is the starter relay/solenoid on the starter motor itself

The key activates the starter relay in the fuse box, if PATS doesn't ground this relay then no start and no click either, and flashing THEFT LIGHT on dash

The starter relay sends 12volts to the starter relay/solenoid but a different 12volts(not from the key switch), from Ignition Fuse(50amp) in engine fuse box

Pull out the starter relay in engine fuse box and have a look at the tabs and slots
You are looking for corrosion on relays IN and OUT tabs and slots, the larger ones
i.e. the relay could be working, "the click", but its not passing the "other 12volts" to the starter motor

Ford used two types of relays, mini and micro
Mini seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/mini-automotive-relay-wiring-840x.jpg
Micro seen here: http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/micro-automotive-relay-wiring.jpg

Relays always used this odd numbering system
85 and 86 is the Coil, it activates the relay, 12v on one and ground on the other causes relay to "close"
And that closing connects 30 and 87 inside the relay
That's for standard 4 pin relay
87A was added so relay could do double duty, 5 pin relay, which most now use even though 87A is not used, slot and tab are there just not connected to anything, just makes it easier

What you should do is to test 30 and 87 to see which has 12volts ALL the time, key on or off doesn't matter
That will be the 12v from Ignition Fuse that is used to activate starter motor relay/solenoid
And you can also use a Jumper wire between slots 30 and 87 to see if Starter Motor activates
This will tell you if the problem is in the fuse box connections or at the starter motor

BE SURE TO BLOCK THE TIRES, as jumping this relay takes ALL SAFETY features off line


The smaller cylinder on the starter motor is a relay/solenoid
A Solenoid is activated like a relay but it is used to MOVE something, in this case when activated it causes the starter motor gear to MOVE outward and engage the flywheel/ring gear
On the back side of this solenoid(inside) is a Contact Plate, when the solenoid has moved the starter gear all the way out this contact plate connects the starter motor to Battery positive cable and start motor starts to spin

There is a smaller "S" post on this relay/solenoid, the wire on this post comes from the starter relay inside the engine fuse box(1998 and up)

And then there is the larger battery positive cable that comes directly from the battery

Start motor and its relay/solenoid are both grounded by the bolts that hold starter to bellhousing, one of which usually has the larger battery negative cable connected to it
Starter draws/needs the most AMPs so has the Biggest Cables connected to it

 

[ericbphoto]

In between the battery and the starter is a starter relay. It should be mounted on the inner fender somewhere. (What year Ranger and which engine?) Are you sure that isn't where your click is coming from?

There should be 3 terminals ; 1 big terminal connected to battery positive. 1 big terminal connected to starter. 1 small terminal.

The small terminal gets 12 volts when you turn the key. That energizes the starter relay and send voltage to the starter. So... make sure you have 12 volts on one big terminal from the battery. Then, with the transmission in neutral or park, use a piece of wire or screwdriver and jumper 12 volts to the little terminal. Of you only get a click, then the starter relay is bad. If the starter comes to life and turns the engine, the relay is good. You can also jumper directly across the 2 big terminals and that should engage the starter and turn the engine.

 

[rumblecloud]

Thank you...

 

[James Morse]

OK, I assume the relay is #5 that what internet says. I put blue tape on it in pic. So it's the mini, if this is the right one. Terminal 30 has 12v+ always (tested it), 87 has no V. Tabs and slots look clean, I can spray elec cleaner in it I suppose but looks clean.
So before I jump 30&87, what do you mean "takes off all safety features" if it's in Park what can happen. It seems pretty important since you capitalized it so I'm gonna wait why is this dangerous. Meanwhile blocking tires.

 

[RonD]

If its in Park then nothing will happen except starter will activate, not everyone has an automatic, so...............if it was in gear then it would jump forward or backwards

Key OFF
And do the jump several times to to see if it fails to spin, see if you can get the "one click" no spin, which would mean its a starter motor issue

 

[James Morse]

OK thanks. Jumping, I get no starter action. I do get a not-loud whirring, I'm thinking it isn't the starter but fuel pump or something... kind of hard to tell where it's coming from. Anyway, it didn't activate the starter in the sense of cranking. I don't get any click from the solenoid.
Truck is on slight incline I don't know if I can push it into shop which is level. I can see it's a b*tch trying to get to connections on solenoid to test the wiring for continuity, or if I wanted to swap out starter or harness. I can get under there, but I can see it would be miserable trying to wrench stuff etc. Could jack it/ stands etc where it is but I really don't like it when stuff is on incline even if slight.
I'm pretty sure the one click (when relay is in), which is pretty loud, is coming from the relay... and if relay were bad then this test you just gave me would have proved that. Would that life were that easy.
So... next step... check wiring harness for continuity? Or do I dare jumping across the terminals at the solenoid and see if it works then, which would tell me it's in the wiring; I don't like the idea of being under truck and doing that. It's making me wish for lift in shop that's for sure.
It's progress. Just have to eliminate stuff one at a time. THANKS. Edit: fuses seem ok, you can test them at the top, and they seem fully seated. Don't know if that is upstream or downstream of the test but I think they are ok.

 

[James Morse]

Can I push the truck (probably with help) if it's in neutral? Or will the auto trans resist? I never had auto before, standards are easy to push in neutral. If I had it up on stands it would be way easier to do this stuff, piece of cake compared to worming under it. Creeper doesn't help because they there's no room left.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Yes...

 

[RonD]

"OK thanks. Jumping, I get no starter action. I do get a not-loud whirring, I'm thinking it isn't the starter but fuel pump or something... kind of hard to tell where it's coming from. Anyway, it didn't activate the starter in the sense of cranking. I don't get any click from the solenoid."

Then that's not the starter relay

You can get your 1999 Owners Manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/general-technical-electrical-18/ford-ranger-owner-manuals-1996-2011-models-3747/

Look on Pages 139/140, relay 6 is the starter relay
Relay 5 is indeed fuel pump relay

And you do know how to test relays now, just needed to find the right relay to test

And no it didn't/doesn't hurt the fuel pump to turn it on, and knowing where it is and how to turn in on may come in handy one day

 

[James Morse]

Sorry about that. My info is pages 5-14 to 5-16, just different book, didn't realize they had this great info in there! Pin 30 is the one with 12V and actually it tests 12.2V and so does the new battery so I trickle charged it a bit. This is making me wonder if that battery is good or what; I'm sure Advance will replace it if it's not. Or maybe they would take it back since probably my old battery is actually fine. I jumped the gun there. This test at the relay juncture should have been the first thing I did because that tells you if the problem is upstream or downstream of it.

Anyway, jumping pin 30 to 87 with relay out, gives me the same result as when the relay is in and I turn the key to start position. Click, nice and loud, from the solenoid, but nothing else.

Can solenoid click but still not be good, i.e. not passing current to the starter? I guess it probably doesn't make lots of difference, because if I had to change the solenoid I have to pull the starter anyway so it would, I think, make sense to go ahead and put in a known good starter. I'll take your advice on this.

I'd say this indicates that ignition switch is ok, and relay is ok (contacts are shiny bright clean), and probably harness is ok, and starter has dead spot or otherwise shot. Does that sound right? If so, then my next step would be get some help pushing truck 10' into shop, jack up, set jack stands, pull starter, and replace with new/rebuilt starter. If it still didn't work then it would have to be in the harness but since the solenoid is getting current it doesn't make me think harness is bad.

Will wait to see what you say..

THANK YOU.

Edit: I put my old battery back in, it tests 12.7V. I'm going to try to take the 'new' one back, that should pay for a new starter plus some. Are there any of them I should stay away from? If they take the battery back it would more than pay for the most expensive (Bosch reman), so if I can work that out I'd be ahead of where I am not for dollars.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?searchTerm=starter&filterValue=isFitted_uFilter:Exact+Fit&sortBy=PRICE_HIGH_LOW&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1

 

[RonD]

The relay/solenoid on the starter motor can "click" and starter motor may not spin if the contacts for the relay part are bad, or brushes in starter motor are loose
OR
The larger battery positive cable is bad

If you get a "click" each time you jump 30/87 then the wiring in the fuse box is OK

 

[James Morse]

Thanks RonD. The only starter they had at Advance was their brand, $113, good price, and, they will replace free for any number of years. "limited" means they will do that once only. Took battery back, so I'm about $75 ahead of where I was yesterday at this point.

Editing.... I re-read what you said and you are talking about the solenoid/relay on the starter not the #6 relay. I think we can assume it's ok plus you could swap #8 to it I believe (blower motor), it's the same part#.

About checking positive cable, isn't it true I could put my multimeter on the hot cable connection at the starter and to ground and see what volts I get? Sounds right? If volts are good then cable is good? or would I really want to test for resistance, which should be zero or close, I'd assume.

If it ends up that I put in the starter then I might as well replace harness, that isn't hard, is it? They are like $70 I think. I'd hate to get starter in, assuming I need it, then end up putting truck up again etc. I guess you could try starting it on the jack stands, but that really kind of gives me the creeps. I suppose you could try it real briefly just to see if it turns over a bit. Getting ahead of myself, will take it a step at a time. THANKS.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Google voltage drop testing to test your battery cables