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Back again with another very odd problem


Zapper

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To send it or not to send it, that is the question.
About a month ago i had the ignition module and the ignition coil completely die, i replaced thos and its been running just fine. Until recently.... it has been sputtering and basically acting like its cutting all spark or fuel around 2000-2500 randomly, it does it only after its warmed up but it only does it when im cruising around that rpm, im unsure as to why its doing this, could it possibly be an issue with the ECU? Or is it something else, if anyone possibly knows please give me some advice as to what it could be
 


superj

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maybe the distributor has a worn bearing and is allowing movement at that certain rpm?
 

Rimjam

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Did you put a Chinese ignition (TFI) module in it?
 

Zapper

Yes i can afford this without "daddies money"
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shot bushings?
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To send it or not to send it, that is the question.

Rimjam

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I recently had a two week adventure with my '88 (see thread, same topic) & went thru three TFIs before I got a good one. If you have a tach is it jumping around when engine sputters?
 

gaz

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Nope, put a actual decent one that i think was around $50
Is the Ignition Module made with black or gray plastic?
 

RonD

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I would look at what superj said, distributor wobble
Pop off the cap and manually move the rotor to see if there is any play in the shaft

If you can crank the engine and watch the rotor spin that can be helpful as well to see if there is a bit of a wobble

Check under side of the cap, look for "marks" on the rotor/plug contacts, shouldn't be any of course


I didn't see any mention of warm or cold running
If engine runs better cold and the symptoms/misfires don't show up until 10+ minutes of driving that could be TFI issue again
 

Rimjam

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All ignition modules I ever noticed were grey. Black would only add to the heat problem.
 

RonD

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Rangers all used the Grey one, Black were a different model with different wiring but same connector

But 3rd party modules don't always follow color code
 

Zapper

Yes i can afford this without "daddies money"
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Age
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Location
Buhl,ID
Vehicle Year
1986ish
Make / Model
ford ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
2.294e+6 cubic millimeters
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Drop
shot bushings?
Tire Size
235/75/r15
My credo
To send it or not to send it, that is the question.
I recently had a two week adventure with my '88 (see thread, same topic) & went thru three TFIs before I got a good one. If you have a tach is it jumping around when engine sputters?
Nope its actually staying in at the rpm its at, but after watching the exhaust it puts out a bunch of black smoke... so i possibly have one or more injectors sticking
Is the Ignition Module made with black or gray plastic?
Its gray
I would look at what superj said, distributor wobble
Pop off the cap and manually move the rotor to see if there is any play in the shaft

If you can crank the engine and watch the rotor spin that can be helpful as well to see if there is a bit of a wobble

Check under side of the cap, look for "marks" on the rotor/plug contacts, shouldn't be any of course


I didn't see any mention of warm or cold running
If engine runs better cold and the symptoms/misfires don't show up until 10+ minutes of driving that could be TFI issue again
Ive done that before since ive had to replace the halleffect sensor/pickup coil. I am definitely starting to think it is injectors, i already have reman injectors, so i went ahead and ordered valve cover and upper and lower intake gaskets since i might aswell replace those while im doing this since they leak badly, and if im doing that should i check the valve lash of the valvetrain since ill be there anyways
 

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