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B3000 TDI swap


Whitbread

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Interesting swap, I like my ALH but it'll stay in the wagon. I skimmed the posts but didn't see, is there a reason you went mk5? I'd love to see some VAGCOM data on this build if you want to share.
Cost. I actually wanted go run a jeep liberty 2.8L as it's a much heavier duty engine. But I found a cheap BHW passat motor first. So I went that route.

What data do you want to see?

I’m assuming you have to cut some of the transmission was to clear the new starter location? I’m custom making my own adapter plate and the starter location is my biggest problem currently. I don’t want to weaken the transmission overly, but that starter location is the only option.
Yes, if you look closely, the bellhousing is notched for the starter pinion. No problems since.
 


Whitbread

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Scored a jk Rubicon transfer case to go with my nsg370 for $600! Also got a pair of 1310 yokes and a front driveshaft in a box kit from JE Reel Driveline when I was in LA last week. Getting closer!

 

Whitbread

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All the parts are ready to swap the nsg370/241OR in the ranger! I sold the ranger transmission/tcase and ford 4L adapter kit off with all the spare parts so it's time to get busy.

The last part I had to make was the shift rail support for the jeep trans. The factory setup has molded plastic on a thin piece of stamped steel that guides the 4 shift rails. When the plastic breaks, the rails fall out of alignment and cause all partial engagement/popping out of gear issues that nsg370's have a reputation for. This is cnc'ed out of 954 bronze and double the thickness of the oem plastic part.

Broken oem shift rail support


New shiny parts


[/url]





A few weeks back I finished development of my tdi to 4L jeep adapter kit, will hopefully bolt it on on sunday!


 

PetroleumJunkie412

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ericbphoto

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:iamwithstupid:

Very nice work.
 

Whitbread

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Thanks for the kind words guys! I didn't quite get the trans in today, but I did get the leaking vacuum/fuel pump resealed, leaking water neck o ring changed, and adapter kit/starter all installed and torqued up. Trans is going in first thing in the morning!

The black hole


Resealed vac/fuel pump




It all fits!
 

Whitbread

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The truck is up and running! It was 110% worth it. It is soooooooo much better to drive now. This is proper work/play gearing for a truck and how it should've been from day 1. First gear dropped from 3.7 to 4.45, reverse from 3.4 to 4.0, and low range from 2.48 to 4:1.

I had to modify the cross member slightly and used a jeep transmission mount instead of the ranger mount. The rear driveshaft was lengthened by 5" and used a neapco 1310 driveshaft kit to build the front shaft. For the hydraulic clutch connections, I used an advanced adapters TJ jeep -3an fitting in the master cylinder and I tig welded a -3an male onto a VW clutch line quick connect end that just happened to match the JK slave perfectly. An all star performance 24" -3an line with a 45 on one end was the perfect length and on the shelf at the local auto value.

As it turned out, the factory ranger master didn't have enough fluid displacement to fully disengage the jeep slave/clutch. Browsing rock auto, the ranger master is a 16mm bore and the jeep slave was paired with a 19mm bore master. Poking deeper on rock auto, all 2000 era f150-f550 used the same appearing master cylinder as a ranger but with an 18mm bore. It installs in the same way as the ranger master, but I found out the hard way that the square shape on the F150 master that twists into the bracket is .100" larger than the ranger master was. I used a flex shaft dremel with an aluminum burr bit to open up the square in the bracket and it twisted right in. Once bled, the clutch now fully disengages!

For the transfer case shifter, I whipped up a linkage using some 1/4" rod ends and other bits laying around the shop. Rummaging in the scrap bin, I found a nice 1.25" chunk of round that made a perfect shift knob. The pivot has a teflon bushing pressed in riding on a stainless shoulder bolt and it works very smoothly without being floppy. Last things to do are connect the reverse lights, cut holes in the 2wd auto floor plate, install junkyard sourced 2wd auto rubber floor mat in place of nasty carpet, and install the chevy squarebody shiftboots. Just happy to have my truck back!





2 Hi shifter position

4 low shifter position


Here's a video running up through the gears and showing just how low the crawl ratio is now.


 
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PetroleumJunkie412

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diesel doesn't interest me.

But this does.

Hm.
 

jmcrow1954

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Where you able to use Ranger instr cluster for gauges, very interested in that information on my build
 

ben_2_go

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Where you able to use Ranger instr cluster for gauges, very interested in that information on my build
Depends on the year. Mostly just swapping over sensors for the temp and oil gauges. If the speedo runs off a cable, or if newer truck the rear axle, no problem. Not sure what can be done if the transmission is swapped and the truck has an electronic speedo drive in the transmission. There are work arounds if you have a tachometer and want to keep it. A search should turn up the various ideas to make it work.
 

jmcrow1954

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Depends on the year. Mostly just swapping over sensors for the temp and oil gauges. If the speedo runs off a cable, or if newer truck the rear axle, no problem. Not sure what can be done if the transmission is swapped and the truck has an electronic speedo drive in the transmission. There are work arounds if you have a tachometer and want to keep it. A search should turn up the various ideas to make it work.
I see yours is a 93 which would be before OB2, since OB2 most clusters are controlled thru CANbuss (twisted pair wire) into a IPC module that communicates with gauges, easy for programmers to decider, nightmare for wrench monkies
 

ben_2_go

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I see yours is a 93 which would be before OB2, since OB2 most clusters are controlled thru CANbuss (twisted pair wire) into a IPC module that communicates with gauges, easy for programmers to decider, nightmare for wrench monkies
Mine is a 2001 and OBD II didn't go in effect until 1996 in the US. All of my sensor are independent of the PCM in my 2001 and the one I helped V8 swap. My speedo runs off the rear axle, tach runs off the alternator, oil/temp direct off the sensors. I've already done a 5.0 swap on another 2001 Ranger and other than the tach which needed a wire repined for the V8 as mentioned in the Explorer V8 swap guide, every thing else just worked.

 

Whitbread

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Sooooo a lot has happened since I last posted here. Truck was getting used and abused and having buckets of fun with. About 9 months ago, the original junkyard sourced unopened engine started pressurizing coolant. I was already putting together a fresh built motor as oil usage was increasing and cold starts were getting rough. Zero complaints as that motor had unknown miles to start with and lived through 5 years of 55psi being shoved into it. Pulled it out of the shop tonight on it's own power with the fresh engine for the first time!

The new motor is the same BHW code engine, but it has Molnar connecting rods, 16.8:1 compression pistons, valve springs, head studs, and now 80% over injectors instead of 40%. Obviously cam, bearings, etc are all fresh and block/head were fully machined. Turbos are a Garrett GBC20-300 and a PSR 3076R. Since I now manufacture remote oil filter plates, I went to a remote filter and air/oil cooler out front for more room next to the engine. Also added a chinese diesel fired coolant heater because they're too cheap not to now.

I tried to find most of the random pictures I took along the way, but there's a photo dump to give a rough idea. Obviously some holes in the timeline haha.

Very first start with no downpipe on https://youtube.com/shorts/p4id16XcWRo?feature=shared







































































Ignore temporary turbo oil lines, waiting on crimp fittings to arrive.
 
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bobbywalter

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