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B3000 TDI swap


Motohead1

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yea who cares if a winch is slow when it can do work all day. Its still quicker than being stuck.

Love those EGTs and the compound boost.
 


dsltech83

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Yeah that is awesome.
You have much BRM experience?
My brother has one I might try to put in my 93 ranger


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Whitbread

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Yeah that is awesome.
You have much BRM experience?
My brother has one I might try to put in my 93 ranger
I would suggest to use a BEW, BHW, or ALH over the BRM. The BRM doesn't have a power steering pump (mk5 have electric racks) and the wiring is slightly more complicated. If you got it for free or next to free, by all means use it. But if you're paying more than $500 for it, then I'd look for other options.


The truck has been riding worse and worse lately, so I decided it was time for a mild suspension refresh. New bilstein shocks, sway bar links, and upper control arms as the ball joints were a touch sloppy. Worlds better now!



 
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dsltech83

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I would suggest to use a BEW, BHW, or ALH over the BRM. The BRM doesn't have a power steering pump (mk5 have electric racks) and the wiring is slightly more complicated. If you got it for free or next to free, by all means use it. But if you're paying more than $500 for it, then I'd look for other options.


The truck has been riding worse and worse lately, so I decided it was time for a mild suspension refresh. New bilstein shocks, sway bar links, and upper control arms as the ball joints were a touch sloppy. Worlds better now!





Thanks for the info! I’m researching using an ALH instead. They are talking about keeping the BRM jetta.


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bobbywalter

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your truck while towing is is slow.....




























almost as slow as mine with no load...:D




if we were drag racing......i think you would beat me with my truck empty and your truck pulling the jeep......:icon_rofl:

i have to say that is impressive for 2 liters. but....dont see it making it 100k working like that....hell 50 k would make it a super engine...


your experience with them is good for me because i would never run over 1150 egt on an unknown engine...if i was able to look closely at the pistons i may be braver....
 

Whitbread

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your truck while towing is is slow.....


almost as slow as mine with no load...:D




if we were drag racing......i think you would beat me with my truck empty and your truck pulling the jeep......:icon_rofl:

i have to say that is impressive for 2 liters. but....dont see it making it 100k working like that....hell 50 k would make it a super engine...


your experience with them is good for me because i would never run over 1150 egt on an unknown engine...if i was able to look closely at the pistons i may be braver....
I don't tow loads like that every day, but why wouldn't it live 50k? If oil temp/pressure, coolant temp, and all other vitals are kept in line, the motor will be just fine. Maybe inspect rod bearing shells at 50k, but it certainly won't be shot by any means. Might have a few percent more blowby, but nothing that would render the engine toast. My other compound turbo TDI had 55k of heavy use on it and when the car got T-boned, I pulled the drivetrain out and the insides of the motor were still perfect. All I did was put new gaskets in and it's on a stand waiting for a new shell.

1150F egt's are nothing, 1600F peak and 1250F sustained with piston cooling jets are well accepted safe numbers for pretty much any DI diesel. Drag/sled only guys will peak 1800-2000F in 1/4 or 300'. With an IDI such as your 6.5, you have to be much gentler with egt's as the heat load on the prechamber/cylinder head is much higher than a DI engine.
 

bobbywalter

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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
i was under the impression towing was a key component for ya for some reason... dont have too much experience with this platform...(over the last 15 years) i have done many autopsy of them though when the chance was there at the yards...and seen many cracked pistons with sub 150 k cars....i had ASS U MEed it was from the neglectful owners not changing belts on time. but with many that had obviously unlifted heads and no valve damage it was perplexing...

i got to talking with others that were happy i was dissecting things making their life easier...its why i asked you what yard....pretty tight crowd with the vw guys. they told me it was from mismatching injectors and pumps looking for power..:dunno: i expected different erosion patterns from fuel heat...interestinging any case.


with coated pistons i would see it lasting. simply watching cooling temps...more importantly oil temperature, is a great way to gauge things.
add to that the full synthetic package rotella and other super oils and life with oil squirters can really take some fire.....these are really things i need to consider. i forget about those factors.... that and the vw can take 1300-1400 sustained at sea level with stock fueling.

regardless everything will be fine untill its not....one fawk up at the line with the modified fueling and its instant pooched. i see it all too often with the d max...maxxed out guys. one injector fawks up when your into it...and your wallet is screaming for mercy.




the limits of idi are indeed dismal....but running capacity of alternative blends is the only reason i tolerate it. i am considering a dmax. maybe a mechanically injected version so i can burn heavy fuel... but thats some serious work and at least 5-6 k to get going. which is cheap for what ya would get i guess...
 

Whitbread

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i was under the impression towing was a key component for ya for some reason...
It is, and I tow extremely often, just not normally as heavy as the jeep loaded with gear for a weekend of wheeling. Normally my towing loads are 2-5klbs, not 6500ish.



Just passed 18kmi on the swap so far and it's been running fantastically. First major issue popped up on friday when my FTE branded slave cylinder decided it no long wanted to be together. Got a new one from Napa and R&R'ed the trans and she's back alive quickly. But that brings me to my for sale offering.

I've decided that for what I do with the truck on a daily basis, the M5OD/1354 gearing just doesn't work for me and I want to change it. Going any shorter in the rear end gears or putting in a crawl box just aren't the correct answers either. I've decided to swap to a Jeep NSG370 6 speed and Rubicon 4:1 transfer case. That will give me a 4.46:1 first gear vs the current 3.4:1.

So my whole adapter kit, starter, clutch, flywheel, 4.0L transmission, FX4 boots/shifters, complete spare good m5od guts, spare electric shift 1354, and manual 1354 transfer case with CV front output are for sale. I figure about $2200 is a fair price for all the items together. Trans and tcase shift smoothly with no scary noises.
 

GJ123

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Any chance you would consider separating?

Or, consider swapping it all into my ranger along with a TDI for a little more? :)

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Whitbread

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Snapped some quick videos of the truck in the current state of tune as I had a few asking what it drove like. Here you go!

This is empty in 4wd on a slightly slick road
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYa4bDMmeJU

This is later the same day with a vw jetta tdi on the 20' aluminum car hauler behind it. And yes, I replaced my dash light bulbs the next day haha. They weren't that bad in real life, but now they're nice and bright.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZH5kUeMm8Tw
 
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Whitbread

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Finally collected all the pieces to rebuild my nsg370 for the ranger. My "good condition" core turned out to be total junk, but it's brand new now basically. New reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears, new reverse syncro hub/sleeve, new 1-2 sleeve, new shaft bearings, and carbon tech full syncro kit. Now I just need to finish designing the parts to fix the internal shift linkage to get rid of all the plastic in dumb places.



 

Motohead1

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I just swapped in my spare nv3500 last week. If only there was a fifth gear swap available for them. Looks like the ratios of the NSG370 is my next best bet if and when this one dies.
 

Lord Corn

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Interesting swap, I like my ALH but it'll stay in the wagon. I skimmed the posts but didn't see, is there a reason you went mk5? I'd love to see some VAGCOM data on this build if you want to share.
 

RamblerRyGuy

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Graduated one of the top in my class for automotive technology at Sinclair College, Ohio.
Lots of progress now!

Since you have to drop the front diff to get to the driver side motor mount bolt anyway, figured it was a good time to clean up the 4.10 junkyard front end and put it in.


The adapter kit is set up to use a 4.0L clutch, flywheel, and trans. So I snagged a 2010 4.0L 5 speed trans as my truck was a 3.0L. I pulled both transmissions down to install my shorter 3.0L 1st-3rd gear in the 4.0L trans with all new syncros, bearings, and swapped over my tailhousing with t case linkage mounts. I use this as a work truck out in the woods, so I wanted the lower first gear (3.7 vs 3.4). The only difference I found between the two transmission is the spacer that goes between 5th and reverse. Otherwise, everything was identical.










Adapter kit mounted up perfectly!





Had a slight interference issue between the front diff and the passat oil pan, so off to the parts stash for a jetta oil pickup and pan!


Quick baffle


Much more betterer!


Looks so little in there :D
I’m assuming you have to cut some of the transmission was to clear the new starter location? I’m custom making my own adapter plate and the starter location is my biggest problem currently. I don’t want to weaken the transmission overly, but that starter location is the only option.
 

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