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I agree, this seems most likely a cabling issue. I see enough dirtiness and oxidation around those cable crimps that I couldn't rule them out.

A good way to check might be to turn on every load you can with the engine not running (headlights, blower fan on High, and step on the brake for brake lights) so that everything is drawing straight from the battery. Do this for approx 1½ - 2 minutes. Then feel your battery cables around each end where they are connected. There should not be any discernible heat anywhere on the cables or at their connections. If you do find any warm connections, then there's your issue (too much resistance in the connection).

Tip:
When you buy new cables, lightly heat the crimped ends and run some solder down into them. The solder will make for a more solid connection and prevent any oxidation from forming (this is best done when the cables are new, it can be difficult to get solder to take well to something that's dirty or been exposed to the atmosphere for some time).

If Battery is at above 12.3v and you get "click, click, click" it means starter motor can't get the full 60amps it need
So larger positive battery cable or the larger negative battery cable does not have a good connection
Starter motor is the only reason for those two large cables

All the other electrics use smaller wires, i.e. horn, headlights, ect............so they can still work fine
Focus on the two larger battery cables
The starter motor draws WAAYY more than 60 amps... (more like 200-300). Certainly makes it important your battery and cables are all in good condition.
 


Burnsy

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Sometimes it's not easy to determine when something written is humor. With this place, you gotta give others the benefit of the doubt and just think that it is a joke. Just go with the flow and you can have some fun while you get some help. :D
I hear ya....I weighed that out....and sometimes insults come disguised in the form of humor attempts... I've been on here a while I know how it goes.
 

Burnsy

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Wasn't a cable issue it is engine bay fuse box fuse 1 50amp I/P fuse panel....it was late, shop was closing, gonna pull fuses from cab fuse box tmrw to start to try to isolate it
 

sgtsandman

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Wasn't a cable issue it is engine bay fuse box fuse 1 50amp I/P fuse panel....it was late, shop was closing, gonna pull fuses from cab fuse box tmrw to start to try to isolate it
Isn't troubleshoot electrical problems fun? I spent an entire day one time trying to figure out why my fuel pump wasn't working. Pulled the the bed cap and bed after troubleshooting everything I could get to without disassembling the truck. It turned out replacing the fuse that looked perfectly fine, except for some brown schmutz on the pins, was the fix.
 

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A friend of mine is an electrician and also build's his own drag racing cars. He always takes pity on me and helps me out. As in get out of my way and let me at it :) There's nothing like good friends
 

ericbphoto

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Isn't troubleshoot electrical problems fun? I spent an entire day one time trying to figure out why my fuel pump wasn't working. Pulled the the bed cap and bed after troubleshooting everything I could get to without disassembling the truck. It turned out replacing the fuse that looked perfectly fine, except for some brown schmutz on the pins, was the fix.
Most brown schmutz is non-conductive.

At work, last week, I was servicing a large machine. Near the end of the procedure, I needed to manually move part of the machine. But the computer kept showing g a fault that wouldn't clear. I tried a few things, even opened the cabinet and cycled power to the drive package that controls the motor that wouldn't move. Finally, I went and used the restroom. On my way back to the machine, I remembered that earlier in the day, I had covered a laser distance measuring device (encoder) with a rag so I wouldn't get oil or grease on it's mirror. Removed the rag. The fault cleared. Lesson learned; when you're stuck in a troubleshooting scenario, go take a dump to clear your mind.
 

Burnsy

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Isn't troubleshoot electrical problems fun? I spent an entire day one time trying to figure out why my fuel pump wasn't working. Pulled the the bed cap and bed after troubleshooting everything I could get to without disassembling the truck. It turned out replacing the fuse that looked perfectly fine, except for some brown schmutz on the pins, was the fix.
Tonight when i got home i pulled every fuse from cab fuse box and lightly wire brushed them all perfect, just to have that covered....some had a fair amount of schmutz on them.....now that i know the draw is coming from things associated with the cab fuses, i have a few suspicions....the instrument cluster lights for my speedometer don't all work all the time, from 0-30mph and from 80-120 mph those areas are dark, but sometimes 0-30 lights up, and my PND21(for gear selection) is sometimes dark/out..............also, if i tilt steering wheel down to a certain point my blinkers stop working, and if i go UP too far my right blinker starts flashing rapidly,left blinker will stay fine..............Not knowing a lot about electric i didnt/wouldnt think those could be issues, maybe they are..........the guys at the shop will find it. I'll give them that info before they get into it. I hadnt mentioned it. They were ready to close tonight and were nice enuf to do a quick troubleshoot, found what they did, but we didn't discuss much after that, we all went home.........yes troubleshooting electric sucks especially when you don't understand it
 

sgtsandman

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Tonight when i got home i pulled every fuse from cab fuse box and lightly wire brushed them all perfect, just to have that covered....some had a fair amount of schmutz on them.....now that i know the draw is coming from things associated with the cab fuses, i have a few suspicions....the instrument cluster lights for my speedometer don't all work all the time, from 0-30mph and from 80-120 mph those areas are dark, but sometimes 0-30 lights up, and my PND21(for gear selection) is sometimes dark/out..............also, if i tilt steering wheel down to a certain point my blinkers stop working, and if i go UP too far my right blinker starts flashing rapidly,left blinker will stay fine..............Not knowing a lot about electric i didnt/wouldnt think those could be issues, maybe they are..........the guys at the shop will find it. I'll give them that info before they get into it. I hadnt mentioned it. They were ready to close tonight and were nice enuf to do a quick troubleshoot, found what they did, but we didn't discuss much after that, we all went home.........yes troubleshooting electric sucks especially when you don't understand it
While I can fumble through and may be better than some, I'm no pro by far and absolutely hate troubleshooting electrical issues. The only thing that I might hate more is house plumbing work. I hope that fixes the issue and the other ones you mentioned.
 

ericbphoto

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also, if i tilt steering wheel down to a certain point my blinkers stop working, and if i go UP too far my right blinker starts flashing rapidly,left blinker will stay fine...
This is a sign that a wire has rubbed through its insulation and is intermittently shorting to ground. It may or may not be related to the issue you're working on. But it is definitely a problem that needs to be fixed.
 

Burnsy

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This is a sign that a wire has rubbed through its insulation and is intermittently shorting to ground. It may or may not be related to the issue you're working on. But it is definitely a problem that needs to be fixed.
Yeah...i have the steering wheel in the sweet spot but its higher than i like...ive had it that way for a few years. I guess im used to it...i figured a wire was getting pinched or something....my old 00 ranger did the same thing....im gonna have the shop take a look at it. Thanks for your input i appreciate it
 

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