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Axle interchange for Torsen rear diff?

Rimjam

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Bought a rear differential from a low mileage wrecked 2005 FX-4 Level II with Torsen LS. The wreck snapped the driver's side axle at the backing plate but I managed to remove the rest of the shaft. So now I'm needing a replacement left side 31 spline axle. I read somewhere here that an Explorer shaft is 3/8" too long. What other vehicles will interchange?
 


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I don't think there is a direct interchange. The FX4 Level II and 2002 FX4 Ranger Torsen drive axles are unique. There is a company that sells new ones though. Sorry, I don't remember the name of the company.
 

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Is the spline long enough that you could have a machine shop cut off 3/8" and turn a new snap ring groove?
 

pjtoledo

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the part numbers were posted a year or two ago. maybe 3.


try these numbers, found them in some old notes.

USA standard gear 21910 left, 21909 right

Yukon YA F880070 left, YA F880069 right


I got some of the info from user Corey Tilton. not sure if he's active anymore.
 
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Rimjam

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Is the spline long enough that you could have a machine shop cut off 3/8" and turn a new snap ring groove?
The chop & reweld would have to be done at the hub end of the axle where the factory weld is, there's too much machine work on the splined end including the groove for the C clip and the metal's hardened as well. I've never read here on TRS where someone's been brave enough to do a cut & reweld. Maybe someone will chime in who's modified one & prove me wrong.
 

pjtoledo

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Is the spline long enough that you could have a machine shop cut off 3/8" and turn a new snap ring groove?

there may be a complication.
drums and rear disks can have a different center thickness. I have had 2010 disk axles side by side to 2004 drum axles for comparison.
Ford wanted to keep the wheel mounting plane in the same place, that means shortening the disk axle shaft by about 1/8" (maybe slightly more)


to shorten the axle 1/2" there would be no welding. just cut it off at the inside of the retainer groove and machine a new groove.
not sure if 3/8" would give you enough room.
 

pjtoledo

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this is a 2010 axle, same center dimensions as others.
just over 3/8" from the end to the farther clip edge. the witness marks on the spline indicate the side gear could move over
another 5/8" or more.
this axle could easily be shortened 1/2"


52623
 

turbo91xlt

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The easy route would be to take the torsen/4.10 gear guts and swap them into an explorer housing. Otherwise you might be able to find a shaft @ car-part.com.
 

Rimjam

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Thanks everyone for input.
Has anyone actually cut an Explorer axle to fit a Ranger Torsen diff? Dimensions will have to be pretty darn close for everything to button up. I'll have a retired machinist friend look at the shortening possibilities. USA Standard Gear sells a new left axle for $440 (ouch). Gonna try the 'Want to Buy' thread here in TRS.
 

pjtoledo

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$188 each at RockAuto before discount & shipping.
 

Rimjam

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$188 each at RockAuto before discount & shipping.
Thanks for info. Probably can't get an Explorer axle modified for $188. Let's see what 'Buying' thread comes up with.
 

Rimjam

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Is the spline long enough that you could have a machine shop cut off 3/8" and turn a new snap ring groove?
I stand corrected. Machinist buddy says remachining carrier end of shaft is the way to go, metals not that hard after all & centers for lathe already established. Machine new round end in existing splined area, then 'C' clip groove, then cut off original end.

Now, has anyone actually cut a 31 spline Explorer (or other) axle to fit a Ranger housing? Would like to have a more accurate measurement than 3/8".
 

pjtoledo

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you have some room for error.
the bearing surface is much wider that the actual bearing, so no problem there.
the other issue is how the brakes, drum or disk, align with the backing plate or bracket.
if you get the axle a bit too long shims can move the brakes out to match it.
cutting the axle too short would be a bad thing.

I would remove the diff pin, then install the axle in the housing. assemble the brakes to set the outer part of the axle properly, disk centered in the bracket.
then measure the gap between the axles center ends to see how far you will to push the axle out to clear the diff pin.

the C clip sets how far the axle can go out, the end of the axle hitting the diff pin stops it from going in.
both of those gaps have some play.


EDIT:

OK, just reviewed the info and realized I gave you info for a regular diff, not a Torsen.
so replace "diff pin" with the Torsens center spacer.
same procedure, put shaft in, assemble brakes, look at gap between axles, shorten as necessary.

since it's a Torsen, look at the wear marks on the old splines to see if you have enough room to cut it off.
 
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Just for the heck of it, make sure that the axle housing is not bent. If the wreck was bad enough to snap the axle, it could be possible that the housing is bent. We would hate to see you go through all the trouble to get and install a proper shaft only for the housing to be crap.
 

Roert42

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Can't just pull the other axle out and make the new one match?
 

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