Auxilary shaft replacement

[YungICY]

So I have a chewed up aux shaft gear and dizzy gear on my truck and I really don't want to spend the money on a billet esslinger replacement shaft. Last time I was out at the junkyard they had several 2.3's laying around. Are all aux shafts the same throughout the years/models? Can I just grab one from any ol lima motor or do I need to get a specific one nailed down?

Btw mine is and 87' block/shaft 2.3l. I'd like to keep the mechanical fuel pump lobe but I can live without it.

Also, the oil pump shaft that slips into the dizzy, should I be able to just pull that right out once the dizzy is out of the block or am I going to have to pull the oil pan and pump in order to replace that shaft?

Thanks for your help.

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[tomw]

I would get the shaft from a 2.3 that has the same ignition system. If you have a distributor, get one from a distributor equipped engine. You might want to grab the distributor at the same time as apparently the gears on your current one are chewed up.
I believe the oil pump hex shafts are retained by a 'circlip' on the shaft that keeps the shaft from coming out when the distributor is removed. If you can get some long-reach pliers, you can pull the shaft, and let the clip slide down until it falls off. It will just sit in the pan until removed causing no problem. It can't fit through the oil pump pickup screen. I'd pull the shaft from the donor engine, or get a new one, depending on condition. If the hex is not damaged, there's no need to replace it.
tom

 

[YungICY]

Thanks Tom. I'll start fishing around to see what I can find.

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[tomw]

If you want 'simple' you can find a 74 Pinto/Mustang II distributor that has a points ignition. Good luck finding a set of points. They only made it one year, so they should be like hens teeth. ( I think I have a set in the basement. Why? Eh, I keep things...)
It worked as well as any other distributor of the time, but wider gaps were forcing the makers to go to electronic.
The distributor gear is a real pain to change. It is pressed onto the shaft, and has to be pressed off. Just the gear is close to $20, and a re-man in the 80-something range, I believe.
The 75-up non-computer controlled may have had vacuum advance if you need that. By 1985 the computer was in charge of that factor.
tom