• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

Automatic Transmission OD problem


spaceghost

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
I have a '95 Ranger XLT extended cab 4 X 4 with an automatic. It has been kicking out of overdrive lately and sometimes the O?D light will flash on and off. I read where it might be the speed sensor so I bought one and there's nothing where it should go. It shows it at the back of the transmission before the transfer case up on to of the drivers side. But there's nothing there. I'm not sure which transmission I have now. Can someone give me a heads up on what's going on with it? Thanks
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: 7FA902352B4C01: April 5th, 2021

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
217
Points
63
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Frequently, the problem is the torque converter clutch is failing to lockup. Which is why it's kicking out of OD. My Mustang has the 5R55 trans, and it was doing that to me a lot last year. Replaced the fluid and filter and all the solenoids. It was fine for awhile. Then a few Saturdays ago, drove it to work. Came out to go home, started it, but nothing happened when I put it in gear. It's in a friend's transmission shop now, and he's scratching his head over it. Says the 5R55 is the worst transmission Ford ever made.

A transmission shop will have a code reader that can read transmission codes. Most store bought one's can't, unless you buy a real expensive one. The code I was having was P0741, "
P0741 OBD-II Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
"

If your truck has a tach, you can see if it's locking up or not. Over 40 mph, the tach needle should be very inactive in OD. If you lightly put your foot on the gas and the needle moves, it isn't locked. Same for backing off the gas, it should not move. Should stay pointing at a speed and barely move when you move your foot. Overactive tach in OD over 40 mph, the clutch isn't locking. It doesn't really cause any problems, but will make the trans run hotter than normal.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
16,192
Reaction score
9,867
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
OD light flashing is the transmission equivalent of a check engine light. Have it scanned and get the codes before doing anything. Ford ranger transmission codes are not on a separate module so most scanners can read them.

The sensor you bought was probably the ISS sensor. This was not used until 2001. A 1995 will have the 4r44e or 4r55e not a 5r.
 
Last edited:

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
217
Points
63
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
That would be nice. On my Mustang, when you shut the engine off, the transmission codes go bye-bye. And are not retained. I had to drive it til the OD OFF light started blinking, then go to my friend's shop so he could scan it while it was still present. On the Saturday I drove it to work and it failed, the OD OFF light started blinking while I was backing into a spot. And the trans no longer works now, and there is no code showing to know what the problem is. STUPID design!
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
16,192
Reaction score
9,867
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
Because you need to read pending codes not active codes. The code must be present for X amount of time before being logged as an active code.
 

spaceghost

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Thanks for the help. I took it to a transmission shop and they took it out for a drive. Came back saying it's shot and needs a new one for $2800.00. That's about all the truck is worth so I hate to put that much into it. I'm hoping some one can tell me a part needs replaced and I can fix it instead of a rebuild or a new one. I had it rebuilt 3 years and 9 months ago, but the warranty wasn't long enough to cover it. They looked at it but couldn't tell me what was wrong with it. If this transmission is a bad design, I'm pretty sure it's the 4r55e because the engine is the 4.0, is there a different transmission that will bolt up in it's place? Thanks again for all your help!!
 

spaceghost

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Frequently, the problem is the torque converter clutch is failing to lockup. Which is why it's kicking out of OD. My Mustang has the 5R55 trans, and it was doing that to me a lot last year. Replaced the fluid and filter and all the solenoids. It was fine for awhile. Then a few Saturdays ago, drove it to work. Came out to go home, started it, but nothing happened when I put it in gear. It's in a friend's transmission shop now, and he's scratching his head over it. Says the 5R55 is the worst transmission Ford ever made.

A transmission shop will have a code reader that can read transmission codes. Most store bought one's can't, unless you buy a real expensive one. The code I was having was P0741, "
P0741 OBD-II Trouble Code: Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
"

If your truck has a tach, you can see if it's locking up or not. Over 40 mph, the tach needle should be very inactive in OD. If you lightly put your foot on the gas and the needle moves, it isn't locked. Same for backing off the gas, it should not move. Should stay pointing at a speed and barely move when you move your foot. Overactive tach in OD over 40 mph, the clutch isn't locking. It doesn't really cause any problems, but will make the trans run hotter than normal.
The tach is usually about 2200 rpm's, but when it stops working right it goes up to 3400 rpm's at about 70 mph.
 

adsm08

Senior Master Grease Monkey
Supporting Member
Article Contributor
Ford Technician
TRS 20th Anniversary
Joined
Sep 20, 2009
Messages
34,575
Reaction score
3,480
Points
113
Location
Dillsburg PA
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31X10.50X15
beli
That would be nice. On my Mustang, when you shut the engine off, the transmission codes go bye-bye. And are not retained. I had to drive it til the OD OFF light started blinking, then go to my friend's shop so he could scan it while it was still present. On the Saturday I drove it to work and it failed, the OD OFF light started blinking while I was backing into a spot. And the trans no longer works now, and there is no code showing to know what the problem is. STUPID design!
Wow. I have some serious concerns about the competency of this friend.

For one, he seems to think that the 5R55 is a worse trans than the 6F35, which is patently false. The Bordeaux transmissions had their issues, but none are as bad as the 6F35.

But if he has a transmission with no engagement and can't even figure out where to start...

Maybe start with a line pressure test. Or maybe even with just checking the fluid with the engine running (yes, I know it's a stand pipe in the pan, not a dipstick).


The concern likely isn't electrical or you'd have hard faults and circuit codes stored, or coming back from an on-demand test.

That leaves hydraulic and mechanical issues. So check the fluid with the engine running, if it acts like the engine isn't running/trans is over-filled the pump is shot. If the fluid level appears correct do a line pressure test. Then probably the next thing to do it drop the pan and look for debris and do an air pressure test.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
16,192
Reaction score
9,867
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
Thanks for the help. I took it to a transmission shop and they took it out for a drive. Came back saying it's shot and needs a new one for $2800.00. That's about all the truck is worth so I hate to put that much into it. I'm hoping some one can tell me a part needs replaced and I can fix it instead of a rebuild or a new one. I had it rebuilt 3 years and 9 months ago, but the warranty wasn't long enough to cover it. They looked at it but couldn't tell me what was wrong with it. If this transmission is a bad design, I'm pretty sure it's the 4r55e because the engine is the 4.0, is there a different transmission that will bolt up in it's place? Thanks again for all your help!!
Did the shop tell you what the codes were or any relevant diagnostic info besides trying to sell you a new one?

And the 4r55e is not a bad transmission. Do you realize how many rangers are on the road right now? They wouldn't be there if all their transmissions kept exploding...
 

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
217
Points
63
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Wow. I have some serious concerns about the competency of this friend.

For one, he seems to think that the 5R55 is a worse trans than the 6F35, which is patently false. The Bordeaux transmissions had their issues, but none are as bad as the 6F35.

But if he has a transmission with no engagement and can't even figure out where to start...

Maybe start with a line pressure test. Or maybe even with just checking the fluid with the engine running (yes, I know it's a stand pipe in the pan, not a dipstick).


The concern likely isn't electrical or you'd have hard faults and circuit codes stored, or coming back from an on-demand test.

That leaves hydraulic and mechanical issues. So check the fluid with the engine running, if it acts like the engine isn't running/trans is over-filled the pump is shot. If the fluid level appears correct do a line pressure test. Then probably the next thing to do it drop the pan and look for debris and do an air pressure test.
The guy is 52 years old and has been doing transmissions his entire life. Same with his son. He has the transmission out as of now. The car won't move. Nothing happens when you put it in gear. I drove it to work and it was fine, with the exception the OD off light started blinking while I was backing up. When I restarted it to go home, the OD OFF light was not blinking anymore. I had troubles with the OD OFF light blinking on numerous occasions last year. Every time I shut the car off and restarted it, the light went away. Hence, when the car was towed to his shop and he hooked up his scanner, there were no codes. ZERO, NADA. When you turn the input shaft at the front of the trans, the output shaft at the rear turns. So he is going to totally rebuild the trans from the bottom up. He did remove one of the cooler lines and start the vehicle, made a mess on his shop floor. So the pump is working.

He's not trying to sell me a new transmission at this point. Since I already had problems with the torque converter clutch not locking up, I did okay him to put a new converter in it if necessary. That was the code I had before. Don't know if it is the same one that popped up the day it failed, since there is nothing there now.
 

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
217
Points
63
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Did the shop tell you what the codes were or any relevant diagnostic info besides trying to sell you a new one?

And the 4r55e is not a bad transmission. Do you realize how many rangers are on the road right now? They wouldn't be there if all their transmissions kept exploding...
It's a 5R55, not a 4R55. I don't believe the one in the Mustang has an e at the end. Rick said the one in the Ranger and the one in the Mustang are different. He said the one in the Ranger is better than the one in the Mustang. I watched a few YouTube videos recently about the Mustang Coupes, 4.0 autos. The transmission is a big issue with these cars. Blinking OD OFF lights are a common thing with them.

My 98 Ranger has a 4R44. Heading for 176,000 miles with zero troubles. Wish I could say the same for the Stang. If Rick can't figure out what is wrong with it, I may opt to have him convert the car to a manual. Money isn't a problem on my end. If it was, I wouldn't have five vehicles.
 
Last edited:

cbxer55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
1,146
Reaction score
217
Points
63
Location
Midwest City, Oklahoma
Vehicle Year
1998
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
3.0
Transmission
Automatic
Because you need to read pending codes not active codes. The code must be present for X amount of time before being logged as an active code.
My scanner and Rick's scanner both read pending codes. It's the same alpha numeric code with a PE following it. There's nothing there, No pending codes. That's what is frustrating.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
16,192
Reaction score
9,867
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
It's a 5R55, not a 4R55. I don't believe the one in the Mustang has an e at the end. Rick said the one in the Ranger and the one in the Mustang are different. He said the one in the Ranger is better than the one in the Mustang. I watched a few YouTube videos recently about the Mustang Coupes, 4.0 autos. The transmission is a big issue with these cars. Blinking OD OFF lights are a common thing with them.

My 98 Ranger has a 4R44. Heading for 176,000 miles with zero troubles. Wish I could say the same for the Stang. If Rick can't figure out what is wrong with it, I may opt to have him convert the car to a manual. Money isn't a problem on my end. If it was, I wouldn't have five vehicles.
This thread isn't about you. I'm talking to the OP
 

spaceghost

New Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Missouri
Vehicle Year
1995
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Transmission
Automatic
Dirtman, they said it had some codes that pointed to the computer so they replaced it and nothing changed. They took it back to the parts store. They didn't tell me what codes they had, just that they had erased them. It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all, it's more like there's something telling the tranny to drop out of OD into 3rd, and it shifts hard from 3rd to 4th when it works again. It just seems like a sensor, but what do I know. LOL I have a friend bringing his code reader over in the next couple of days, when I get the codes I'll post them.
 

Dirtman

Former Middleweight Moss Fighting Champion
Supporting Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
16,192
Reaction score
9,867
Points
113
Location
41N 75W
Vehicle Year
2009
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
It's up there.
Total Drop
It's down there.
Tire Size
Round.
Dirtman, they said it had some codes that pointed to the computer so they replaced it and nothing changed. They took it back to the parts store. They didn't tell me what codes they had, just that they had erased them. It doesn't feel like it's slipping at all, it's more like there's something telling the tranny to drop out of OD into 3rd, and it shifts hard from 3rd to 4th when it works again. It just seems like a sensor, but what do I know. LOL I have a friend bringing his code reader over in the next couple of days, when I get the codes I'll post them.
Lots of electrical issues can cause problems on these transmissions. Even a bad range sensor can do all sorts of weird stuff so yes try your best to get codes before you spend any money. I'm not saying it's guaranteed to be a simple or cheap fix but better to rule that stuff out before you go replacing the whole transmission.
 


Top