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asian 2barrel carb info

cody93

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ok, so my other ranger finally wont start, its getting fuel to the carb and spark so its carb related.. i took the carb off and found a leak in the gasket between the carb and spacer, but since i have it off, ima clean it up inside.

well, all the vaccum lines are plugged(PO capped them off with 1 inch vac hose with a screw in it) up and i dont know what goes were. only one i need is the vac advance from the dizzy... this truck ran like a bag of crap and wouldn't go above 45mph so im hoping to fix it. i need the vac diagram for the carb so i know what to cap off, all the wiring for the carb is gone so im gona wire the choke up to be manual. is it ok to just cap off all the vac ports an use the manfold vac tee for the dizzy?



also, im wondering if i got a 2.3 engine block in my truck, there is no mechanical fuel pump hole and i believe all 2.0s had mechanical fuel pumps...
 
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Mark_88

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Well, I went through that with my original carb and could not find anything that was even close to a proper schematic for the vac lines...the PO did about the same thing to mine and I managed to find anther one in the junkyard...with the exact same fix...

The good news is that most of those vac lines are simply to control the air pump and the evap canister outlets...I can't remember exactly, but I think it has three on the driver side at carb level, and three under the intake...and maybe two on the passenger side at the carb level...those, IIRC were for the choke and fast idle kickdown...

At some point I had all but one for the dizzy plugged, and the one on the breather to enable the preheat valve in the breather tube...and maybe one for the EGR...that never actually worked properly because the base of the carb was so plugged with carbon deposits that it was a chore to try to keep it cleaned.

You might want to inspect the base passages of the carb to make sure they are clean...they work both the EGR and the PCV vacuum...if the PCV becomes plugged it starts spewing oil out of every possible place and can actually endanger the engine function eventually (as mine did).

If you've got any spare coin you might want to upgrade it to one of the better options for carbs...like the Motorcraft 5200 (like mine) or the other one that GungfuDan upgraded too...maybe contact FlaminRanger to see if he is willing to part with his intake since his motor finally went south...but I think he said it was going on another engine...

Short of replacing it, clean it up good (especially the base if it's carbon plugged) and plug all the vac lines...you can run the dizzy directly off one of the top intake vac outlets...don't use the bottom ones...and the EGR would use the same carb outlet if you know where that was...

You'd have to disable the air pump if so equipped (mine never did work properly) but if you have emission testing consider tossing on an electric air pump (see my bulletin if you want to go that route...doesn't need any vac from the intake that way)...

Check out the posts by GunfuDan about his upgrade to a newer carb (even provides a link to the site he bought his from)...
 

cody93

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no emmissions here in AR, the computer is gone, egr valve and tube are still intact, not hooked up tho... guess its just clean it up, plug up the vac lines and hope it works... im half tempted to remove the egr and use a block off plate.. as far as the choke, i think i'll wire it to a switch inside the cab to manually open it.. it was a mess when i bought it, now that i have to get it running good, i must fix it up.
 

cody93

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5.0
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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
well, half the screws started stripping on me so i think ima go buy a weber 32/36 now...
 

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