Anyone removed the Fuel Pump Inertia Switch out of circuit because it's faulty (and expensive)?

[snoranger]

Ah wonderful, thanks for reading this thread and letting me know this info. Very much appreciated!!

I can get you an AC Delco part number and some pics of the pigtail for comparison when I get to work later. I think we still stock them.

 

[cobrajocky]

I can get you an AC Delco part number and some pics of the pigtail for comparison when I get to work later. I think we still stock them.

That would be great, would appreciate that part number. I assume that the AC Delco part is the same as whatever manufacturer Ford used? A universal connector part for all injectors and CP Sensors?

Yeah if you could check your stock too. Who do you work for? Do they do online sales and shipping?

Thanks!

 

[snoranger]

That would be great, would appreciate that part number. I assume that the AC Delco part is the same as whatever manufacturer Ford used? A universal connector part for all injectors and CP Sensors?

Yeah if you could check your stock too. Who do you work for? Do they do online sales and shipping?

Thanks!

I’ll update this in a little while with pics and part #. I’m on break right now.

I work for the government.... we buy things, we don’t sell them. We use those pigtails on on a specific brand hydraulic solenoid for our plow controls. It’s just a pigtail that happens to fit other applications.

 

[snoranger]

This is what the other end looks like...

It crosses to:

AC Delco - PT 113

GM # - 12085491

 

[cobrajocky]

I’ll update this in a little while with pics and part #. I’m on break right now.

I work for the government.... we buy things, we don’t sell them. We use those pigtails on on a specific brand hydraulic solenoid for our plow controls. It’s just a pigtail that happens to fit other applications.

Yeah, that part you've got sure look a LOT like the picture for the 97 - 2002 Mazda B4000 and Ranger XLT V6's I found. Do you know how much those are from NAPA? On EBay they're $18.95

I'm gonna take a hunch guess - you're a very knowledgeable automotive mechanic (I hate that "tech" term, to me with my family dealer background, a Mechanic is like an Engineer) and you work for "a government", so I'm going to guess you work for either a State or Fed Gov motor pool?

I bought the Crankshaft CPS from a seller out of Phoenix AZ, so I hope it'll be a fast shipment o here in So Cal.

 

[snoranger]

Yeah, that part you've got sure look a LOT like the picture for the 97 - 2002 Mazda B4000 and Ranger XLT V6's I found. Do you know how much those are from NAPA? On EBay they're $18.95

I'm gonna take a hunch guess - you're a very knowledgeable automotive mechanic (I hate that "tech" term, to me with my family dealer background, a Mechanic is like an Engineer) and you work for "a government", so I'm going to guess you work for either a State or Fed Gov motor pool

I have no clue on price... I replace the parts, purchasing dept deals with the money.

Close enough... Vehicle services dept for the local county.

 

[cobrajocky]

I have no clue on price... I replace the parts, purchasing dept deals with the money.

Close enough... Vehicle services dept for the local county.

I found the CPS connectors at Rock Auto, very good prices, far better than EBay or retail stores that also sell online - https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mazda,1998,b4000,4.0l+v6,1316243,electrical-connector,crankshaft+position+sensor+connector,2568

Ok, so I'm still a decent detective. County is pretty close. Paid reserve cop for 10 years after finishing 15 years in the USAF/Reserves.

 

[cobrajocky]

RonD - Got a question for you in particular because I saw an incredible post answer you wrote on Ranger Forum regarding OBD codes P0171 and 174, which I just suddenly experienced first time ever. I went searching for an answer and that post (https://www.ranger-forums.com/4-0l-ohv-sohc-v6-tech-33/bank-1-2-lean-152893/#post2131104) came up and you mentioned burning antifreeze can cause the mixture to run lean and Possibly the reason for the codes. Far as I know my 4.0L doesn't burn coolant, back at 23k miles it's blew a head gasket, overheated, had the both top ends milled and rebuilt. Nothing ever since, it just flipped 100k

I thought I was low on antifreeze, so I filled the radiator, too much ... after dark, overflowed a bit. Next day it threw those codes. I've had a "mystery" (can't find it) vacuum leak that once in a while cause the engine to stall on acceleration from dead stops or turning corners.

So ... could a too full a coolant system somehow blow some antifreeze into the system and cause those codes, impending danger somewhere or is it that damn "mystery" vac leak?

That was one hell of a fine post you wrote on that thread, honored to know ya'll.

Thanks

 

[RonD]

No, there is no cross-over between cooling system and combustion chambers that would occur by overfilling cooling system

Change PCV Valve if you can't remember the last time it was changed, that can act like a variable vacuum leak if its sticking

Clean MAF sensor, once a year

Any problems running vehicle at higher speeds for say 20min?
Dirty fuel filter can limit flow at higher demand, so cause lean codes as fuel pressure drops a bit

 

[cobrajocky]

No, there is no cross-over between cooling system and combustion chambers that would occur by overfilling cooling system

Change PCV Valve if you can't remember the last time it was changed, that can act like a variable vacuum leak if its sticking

Clean MAF sensor, once a year

Any problems running vehicle at higher speeds for say 20min?
Dirty fuel filter can limit flow at higher demand, so cause lean codes as fuel pressure drops a bit

The PCV is only got maybe 3k miles on it, about 15 months old .... yeah I don't drive this truck much, maybe 2k a year. The intermittent "stalling" issue long predates this PCV and the two before it. It started about 10k miles after the top-end rebuild. I know the mechanic that owned the shop and did the rebuild, ran the Motor Pool shop at the USAF Base I was stationed at in the reserves. Everyone knew he walked on water and motor oil when it came to engines and vehicles. It might have to do with the Camshaft Pos Sensor replacement I had done about that same time. Got to pull the intake Man for that.

I've never cleaned the MAF Sensor (bad on me), the last air filter I changed was pretty dirty, So Cal is one big desert, even LA and the coastal area's all the way to San Diego are deserts with human planted grasses, trees and bushes. So filters go very very fast.

I put in some Seafoam Injector Cleaner tonight, just in case its' some build up in both banks since I'm getting the code for both sides. But I think you're right about the MAFS. Still need to find this pesky Vacuum leak.

Thanks for the quick reply.

What's the best spray cleaner to use on the MAFS?

 

[RonD]

Any spray "electronics cleaner", you can also buy "MAF Cleaner" for a little more, same stuff, pretty much just no-resisdue alcohol spray
No.....Scotch is not the same thing

After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the IAC Valve
Idle should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, if that happens then no vacuum leak
If idle doesn't drop then you have a leak

 

[cobrajocky]

After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the IAC Valve
Idle should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, if that happens then no vacuum leak
If idle doesn't drop then you have a leak

I've got some contact cleaner for my amps and effects that don't leave residue, will try them on the MAFS.

Good Leak Test, will try that this in a few days. Thanks.

 

[cobrajocky]

Any spray "electronics cleaner", you can also buy "MAF Cleaner" for a little more, same stuff, pretty much just no-resisdue alcohol spray
No.....Scotch is not the same thing

After engine is warmed up and idling
Unplug the IAC Valve
Idle should drop to 500 or engine may even stall, if that happens then no vacuum leak
If idle doesn't drop then you have a leak

'If it ain't broke, can't fix it' ...... the old mechanics lament, when I cleared the OBD codes P0171 and 174 I had a couple weeks ago, it's never come back (no Check Engine light or thrown the codes) after doing NOTHING! Kinda tough diagnosing and fixing when the computer says nothing is wrong. Must have been a fluke?

I cleaned the MAF anyways, it wasn't actually that dirty or fouled to my surprise.

And in a couple of weeks of driving the truck more than I usually do, I've only had one occasion where it felt like the engine was going to stall on go from a full stop or a hard turn from stop. I'm still going to try your Test you outlined above, probably this weekend. Then a smoke test.

I found a video on YouTube on how to make your own Smoke Tester for finding vacuum leaks.

Thanks again Ron and ALL you guys for your help. The Ranger Station is outstanding for "Helpful Ford Guys" (screw you Honda)