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anyone other than todd done 35/44 hybrid?


CopyKat

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Huh? What happened?

Edit, I forgot, I guess you're getting into the "prerunner" thing now?
I've gone up and down in lift height and I'm happy with the 3.5" I have now. However had i known that is what I was going to be running I would have put beefed stock pivot brackets on and cut and turned the beams. I still could but since I've added so much more material to the beams in the area I want to cut it's just not worth it. Easier and cleaner to just plate and truss my spare beams. Besides the 4" pivot on the lift brackets is too much for 3.5" lift height.

Not really into the prerunner thing 100% as we just don't have that type of terrain around here. For one since this is a DD I wanted to have the best of both worlds a flexy suspension that can handle the rough trails and one that would behave well on the street. Surprising some of the things you can learn from the Desert guys.
 


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Tony Raine

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for ya'll that have done that swap, how is driveablity? specifically alignment. can this be aligned at a shop? (i guess it could, just have to tell them to use f150 parts).

also, my main concern is the grinding down of the beam


(taken from tech library)

has anyone seen any fatigue in this area? especially if not welded like so:


(also taken from tech library)
 

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I believe the adjustable bushings might be the same. Could be wrong though
 

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That cut is nessessary to get a decent clearance for the upper ball joint boot. Squashing it more than needed will wear it out, or pinch the boot, and will result in a failed ball joint. The welding of the upper ball joint bushing mount is mediocure at best from ford. There are just 2 welds about 1" long on each side. I added extra plate around this area and welded the block on all 3 sides and also welded where it was cut on the opposite side. One other thing to note was that the slot in the block was made wider on mine. The F150 bushing is a fraction smaller than the RBV one and this just helps get a good clamp on the bushing. The bushings are not the same. The D44 uses a taper on the upper ball joint. D35 is a straight pin with a snap ring.

BTW I'm using the fully adjustable moog D44 bushings on mine. I also did my own alignment. Not sure how or if a shop would be able to align it. If they know offroad vehicles then they may be forgiving and do it.
 

Tony Raine

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hey joel, got any close up pics of the brace/welding specifically around that upper ball joint?

i've got a local alignment shop that understands TTB, luckily. they only use adjustable bushings if needed, and don't add unnecessary parts/cost. everywhere in town wouldn't even look at my bronco for under $200, this place did it (right, it still tracks super-straight 3 years later), for $85.
 

CopyKat

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Under side of mine where it was cut and re welded.


Best one I have that shows the plate.
 

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I've gone up and down in lift height and I'm happy with the 3.5" I have now. However had i known that is what I was going to be running I would have put beefed stock pivot brackets on and cut and turned the beams. I still could but since I've added so much more material to the beams in the area I want to cut it's just not worth it. Easier and cleaner to just plate and truss my spare beams. Besides the 4" pivot on the lift brackets is too much for 3.5" lift height.

Not really into the prerunner thing 100% as we just don't have that type of terrain around here. For one since this is a DD I wanted to have the best of both worlds a flexy suspension that can handle the rough trails and one that would behave well on the street. Surprising some of the things you can learn from the Desert guys.
I hear ya. 3.5" is about where I'm at on my suspension as well, but with 2.5" drops. Just about perfect.

I just assumed prerunner after all that work you put into those bitchen fiberglass fenders.

I'd keep it mild on the C&T (maybe do about 1½" on the beams and then run the STX drops).
 

CopyKat

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I hear ya. 3.5" is about where I'm at on my suspension as well, but with 2.5" drops. Just about perfect.

I just assumed prerunner after all that work you put into those bitchen fiberglass fenders.

I'd keep it mild on the C&T (maybe do about 1½" on the beams and then run the STX drops).
I needed tire coverage. Bushwackers just wouldn't cut it and with a $500 price tag for the 4 it's pretty clear for a few hundred more you could have full glass that will cover better and not look like an afterthought.

I've been trying to get a set of the STX drops for a bit now but can't find any around here. I may just make my own if it comes down to it.
 

Tony Raine

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diggin up and oldie!

got most of the parts i need, a bunch that i don't. thats ok, everything on this pallet was free.


its got some weird coil seat thing that has what looks like a tab for a second shock in front of the beam.
 
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DanjaRanger

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so could i just put stock d44 i beams with like 6 inch lift f150 coils and new buckets under my ranger pretty easily or is there f-ton of work to do i want the wider stance for the future but for now just for sic loo:icon_confusedwithout sheeling out tons of dough like getting Autofabs d44 kit a cool 5000 in i beams and rad arms and buckets and hoops and so on:icon_confused
 

Tony Raine

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not that easy. there is a TON of geometry that will come into play
 

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so stock beams wont because they will hit the frame or what? because i want a wider stance and then lift it later:icon_confused:
 

DanjaRanger

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when you gonna be done ill buy a pair? hopefully for less than cut and turned beams?
 


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