Anyone interested in an axle narrowing jig?

[corerftech]

For my 87 v8 project I am machining the bearing replacement bushings for narrowing the Explorer disc 8.8. I need to tuck deeply a set of 275 tires on 8s into the bed.

This would be a limited use system ala Mittler Bros, using 1.5 TGP bar at only 65 inch and inner carrier and outer Big Ford/New Style Torino axle bearing bushings (with stop collars).

I have to buy a stock length of TGP and have enough 6061 to make at least two sets of bushings specific to this axle narrowing and end flange combination. This is the NHRA approved 8.8 axle retention system with captive bearings (no c-clips) and renders the 8.8 a pseudo 9 inch without the weight and of course not nearly as much strength but…. Plenty.

Quick Performance has the ends cheapest and high quality as well as bearings and axles to suit. Moser is next cheapest and then Strange is highway robbery.

This may not be the right place to post so please moderators move as needed. I’m not selling anything, simply opening the conversation about proper jig welded narrowed 8.8s and the tooling required to perform this multiple times with precision, and cheaply.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I would really like to see a tutorial with pics when you do this. Or a good write up with sources and costs.

 

[dvdswan]

Tons of info on google...

how to narrow an axle - Google Search

 

[corerftech]

I was planning on just shortening the axle as most do and retain c-clips. I then found that my tire/wheel and aesthetics are not going to work at 56.75 inch width. I must knock an added 5-6 inch off. So new axles. New axles??? Do I keep c-clips and stay away from the sanctioned tracks? Do I buy c-clip delete housings? They are crap for street use. If axles, then why not get c clips gone??? Now ends are procured. Big bearings, Torino ends that fit the explorer disc brakes——

down the rabbit hole I go.

pricing Moser, labor and shipping to Indiana even from Tn is rough.

I tig. I own most of a full machine shop. If I’m doing it, might as well do it right and use a jig. Jig Uber expensive. The make the jig.

6061 3.25 billets cheap.
1.5 TGP is expensive.

looking for someone to buy into a stock length at a great discount for a 6 footer with a 6 inch test bar. So 6.5 feet (72 inch and 6 inch) so that I can reduce my outlay and benefit someone else.

Bushing material (6061) is cheap for rems. Sweat equity at the lathe no big deal. Need two people who need to buy into the stock length of 1.5 TGP. $262 plus tax in Little Rock. I have scoured the Midsouth and every peckerhead metal supplier including Morgan, Ryerson, the big big boys—— all butthxxles, don’t have, won’t get, punks all of them. Hope they read this. Can’t get DOM, can’t get CrMo tube—— wishing I was still in So Cal. I’d have suppliers begging to give it to me 24/7 delivered!
I digress.

Anyone interested in a cost share on a 1.5TGP bar, shipped? That’s the painful cost.
I can get just a single 60 inch from the online suppliers and it’s about $160 delivered. I may have to go that route. Even Mittler won’t sell just the TGP bar.

You can use CR but it’s not as straight and uniform as TGP. For critical alignments, TGP is leaps and bounds ahead.
As soon as I get the TGP and the Quick Perf Torino ends, I’ll machine the bushings for the ends. The carrier bearings I can measure OD as soon as I tear the rear apart but 3.148 is the OD to hit.

I just want a one and done axle. It’s $600 for axles, bearings, retainer plates, bolts, wheel studs, ends. Add the jig cost. Plus the carrier needs a rebuild. I have no choice though. I expect it to be “bad ass” on the back end when done. May run like crap but…… tucked they will be.
The leafs are being retained, moved to directly under the frame rails. An elongated from hanger will be fabd to allow the IC to move forward keeping the lead and a slider at rear. That will give bookoo wheel house room. Still have to section 3 inches into the stock wheelhouse for width but….. no tubs…… just a section.

Thanks for the replies.

 

[2Krngr]

I would really like to see a tutorial with pics when you do this. Or a good write up with sources and costs.

Anyone interested is just learing how just the typical 'OEM style' shortening is done for reference, this multi-part series details it very well.