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Anyone add power seats?


Kim

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Someone local to me was parting out an Explorer for cheap, so I got a few things I needed for my Ranger....and also a few things I didn't "need" but wanted. lol
Amongst those items are a pair of bucket seats that I'd like to use, as I don't care for the 60/40 thing and my drivers seat is busted out in the backrest anyway.

The Explorer seats are power seats and will need a 12v supply, so my question is: how should I get power to the seat? Will I find a factory harness already under the carpet or something? I can get power there if I have to, just wanted some advice from someone who maybe already done this. Thanks!
 


dvdswan

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Keep your mind like an umbrella, it only works if its open... Continually learning.
It would be best to use a harness as it will connect to everything it needs. But it could be as simple as power and ground.
 
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Kim

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Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I did get the connector plug with about 6 inches of wire attached with the seats, just in case.
 

4x4prepper

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Having swapped Aerostar seats, I can tell you that from the factory they use a constant 12v power source, so you can adjust the seats while the vehicle is off. Maybe to discourage people from doing it while the vehicle is moving or from accidentally popping it out of gear. Or being able to move the seat back when you open the door without the key being in the ignition. Myself, I would add a fused 12v ignition switched power source from a relay. If you are not going under the floor, then down the driver's side and out from under the sill would be okay. If you have a slider on the seat, I see no need for a constant 12v. $0.02
 
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ElectraRider

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Having installed Eddie Bauer seats I fused the seat controls and put the seat warmers on relays in my 2000 Ranger as how I installed a center console from a explorer. installed a fuse block inside of it and ran wires to the back and out both ways to each seat, Readers Digest version.
 

Kim

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3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
So here's the update. I finally got around to getting the driver seat out to assess the situation. It wasn't easy and it wasn't pretty. I was able to remove 1 of the 4 bolts with the proper tool and in the proper manner, but broke the tools trying to get the other 3. (I made a meme from that) A cutoff wheel was needed to just cut/grind the bolt heads off before I could finally remove the seat. Once that seat was finally out, I could see it would be a complete waste of time to add the fancy dancy seats I had acquired because of the condition of the floorboard on that side. I was able to fix the original seat by welding the 2 metal back support rods back in place and.I added another across them for extra insurance. Got a few pieces of 12 ga. steel to weld in and patch things up only as good as I figured it needed to be....then installed the seat back in place with the one good bolt. I welded the other 3 mounts right down with zero Fs given at that point because Baby just get me through this winter.
Winter sucks and in Wisconsin the salt and the snow is just brutal on vehicles. Dirty shame as I only have 145k on this one. I already replaced the entire rear section of the frame when I first got it 2 years ago...
20221003_180607.jpg
 

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