Anti theft/Crank no start

[someguyyeah]

My 1999 mazda b4000 4.0 EFI Automatic 4x4 will not start. I started using the keys to lock and unlock the truck instead of the fob, and occasionally it would not start. Suddenly the keys stopped working in both driver and passenger door (they don't turn at all) so I had to use the fob and it opened just fine. Just after that I went to start it and the THEFT light would not turn off. The motor turns over but I'm not getting any fuel pressure (I checked the test port on top of the engine) and I cannot hear the fuel pump. This leads me to believe that the PATS system is somehow engaged. I disconnected the battery and waited, hooked back up and still nothing. Then I tried to 'reprogram' the key by leaving the truck in the on position for 30+ minutes, still nothing. I have checked every electrical connection I can think of and can find no problems, and have read out every relay under the hood and they all check fine. I also tried the fuel inertia shutoff switch, it did nothing, and I checked the engine ground strap and it is connected securely. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

 

[someguyyeah]

Another thought comes to mind, does anyone know if the Mazda B4000 has a Valet Key feature? Still no luck with the pickup.

 

[adsm08]

Well you can't reprogram a key on a Ford by leaving the key on, that's GM thing.

Sounds like you have something bad, the antenna, the key, or one of the modules.

 

[Dune Runner]

Did you look for the valet button down on the left kick board? Hold it in and try starting the truck. I had to do this many times over the years in three different fords I owned.

 

[Majagit]

Find a shop with a TECH 2 scan tool and they can unlock the security system on the car your age newer ones are touchier then that but on the old ones its fine, if the battery gets dissconnected and the light is on on the steareo it will lock the car up and your screwed well good luck if you dont have it fixed yet

 

[ndccpf1]

For the keys not working in the doors, my 1998 B4000 had the same issue. Because for years the remote key fob is always used, the lock cylinders will "jam". I used WD-40 (not graphite) and stuck the red "hose" of the can into the lock cylinder on both sides. That fixed both doors and has been good since.

For the no start I just helped a friend on their Explorer with the same engine. If you can have someone try and start the truck while you are actually touching the fuel-pump relay to make sure it "clicks" when trying to start the truck.

If it clicks while starting, good chance you have a bad fuel pump like my friend's 1999 Ford.

 

[someguyyeah]

Okay Everyone, working on the truck has been a back project these last few weeks and then I forgot about the thread here, sorry. For me in particular, I had to bypass the fuel inertia/safety switch located on the passenger side firewall of the cab compartment. With my electrical meter the switch read out good electrically, but would not carry the load of the fuel pump. I unplugged the connector, and used a spare bit of wire to jump the connector's green wire (yellow stripe) to the pink wire (black stripe). Then all it took was some starting fluid, and the truck ran strong. I drove it home, and completely removed the connector by splicing the two wires together when I had the available materials. Removing this gets rid of the fuel system shut off in the event of a collission, and is not recommended, but I'm not too worried about it. I have yet to solve the door lock issue, but will be trying Majagit's method when I get a chance. Thank you for your inputs and help.