Anti-Slosh Module Gone Bonkers

[helpme]

Now, how to get to it. All the instrument cluster removal videos show screws that allow removal of the bezel surrounding the instrument cluster. But mine has NO screws. So, what is the secret here? Thanks.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

What year truck?

 

[RonD]

In a 1994 there are just the two screws at the ashtray

Then you can pull at the top of the cover where there are 2 clips that hold that part in

Google: 1994 ford ranger cluster led swap

Should be the first video

 

[helpme]

Thanks. What goes bad on that module? I heard it was a capacitor. Went to Advance, OReilley's and they looked at me like I was crazy. Another chain called Genuine, who's been around a long time, knew what one was but did not have any in stock nor could he get one.
Surprised someone has reversed engineered it and posted a schematic on this here web. Thanks all.

 

[helpme]

Pulled the module and the cap checked OK but I put a new one in anyway. Resoldered the circuit board. Now it doesn't pin FULL when I switch the key to run. But it still behaves strangely. I put $5 in and the gauge barely moved so now I'm thinking its the sender. Its 25 years old so I guess its time to be replaced. I've replaced just about everything on the truck. The only reason I keep it is that it doesn't require emissions anymore. I bought it new and have kept it going ever since.

 

[RonD]

You can by pass Slosh module, gauge just moves up and down a bit when cornering, i.e. when gas is sloshing in the gas tank

 

[helpme]

I don't think its the slosh module now.
What's the best fuel pump assy to buy? I see some on Ebay for as low as $40. I'll be changing it by myself and don't want to pull the bed more times than I have to.
I saw a video on Youtube of how a guy "walked " his bed back by himself by going from side to side.
Thanks.

 

[helpme]

Finally changed the fuel pump assy. Had to, as the fuel pump finally died.
That was a project for one guy pulling that bed back. But I didn't have to remove the bumper or tires. Used the 4x4 trick one guy used in a Youtube video.
BUT the fuel gauge is still a little wonky. I bought the Oreilly's one. I noticed the connections for the rheostat are totally exposed. Doesn't the presence of gas on those connections affect the reading?
Also I noticed some green something in the connector of the old one. The pins are gold and the only thing I can think that would be green would be corrosion of the copper wiring in the pigtail.
Has anybody had any experience with this? Thanks.

 

[RonD]

Gasoline doesn't conduct electricity very well so exposed wires/connections will not lead to short circuits

Corroded connections would effect fuel level sender as that's a resistance sender
16 ohms Empty tank
160 ohms Full tank
Corrosion causes higher ohms so gauge would show higher level than true level, or make gauge stay on full all the time

Gold plating on contacts does resist corrosion but its a very thin coating
If you have ever seen a picture of the Grand Canyon then you have seen what a fluid(water) can do to any "coating"(the earth) over time
Gasoline is a fluid and does slosh around in the tank, so..................coating can be worn off in places exposing the base metal which will corrode
And yes the copper wire as well

 

[helpme]

Thanks Ron.
The green stuff is nearest to the black lead for the fuel pump motor. I put 12V on the old fuel pump motor and it did nothing. So it was definitely bad.
The gold on the pins looked good. Corrosion on the rheostat lead makes sense.
Here's what it does:
Jump in truck key on engine off. Gauge slowly pins out beyond F.
Then slowly drops down to E. Then after driving a while settles out 1/4 to mid gauge or so.
Did exactly this on the old one.

 

[helpme]

Here's a thread on this:

Fuel Gage Issues!!

I was having an issue with my fuel gage not registering all the time. every once in a while it will register up to full no matter how much fuel is in it and then it will go right down to Empty. So I ordered a brand new pump and sending unit from rockauto.com last saturday. received it by fed ex...

www.explorerforum.com

Seems to be the Anti-Slosh module after all for Casperthealien (post #9).
Thats a hard part to find considering they only used them on OBD1.

 

[RonD]

Anti-slosh module was used on Rangers thru 2003, in 2004 Rangers got a digital cluster so no module needed

1996 cluster rear seen here, anti-slosh module in upper right: https://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/winter2009/gauge/gr-8.JPG

If you look at used clusters on ebay you will see the module at same location up thru 2003

 

[helpme]

Thanks. I was told that OBD2 did it in software.I'm planning to bypass mine with the jumper. Its been a year since this started and fortunately I've never run out of gas, re-fueling by odometer.

 

[RonD]

Ford/OBD2 was first used in 1995 Rangers with the new EEC-V Computers that year, but 1996 Ranger was first using standard OBD2

OBD(on board diagnostics) is a communication protocol, like French or English is, OBD1 was fairly standardize but not universal
OBD2 was a "language" agreed to by Automakers worldwide so everyone was speaking the same language when it came to diagnostics
The engine computer itself runs its own software designed/written by that car makers engineers
OBD2 is just the translation software

 

[tw205]

You can by pass Slosh module, gauge just moves up and down a bit when cornering, i.e. when gas is sloshing in the gas tank

How to do @RonD My gauge stays pegged at full. I’d like to try and bypass. Thanks.