Another clutch bleeding question.

[Mike92STX]

I was trying to bleed my clutch to see if I could get the pedal to engage a little higher. I have one of the pumps, so I connected it to the bleeder valve and opened the valve. I tried pumping it and nothing, so I tried turning it some more still nothing. After checking the master to make sure it was not empty, I thought maybe the bleeder was plugged, so I removed it, and nothing came out even with the master still open. I put the bleeder back and snugged it down. Tried pushing the peddle nothing, goes to the floor so I crawl under and there's brake fluid on the exhaust so it's still coming out with the bleeder valve in and reasonable tight. I have a new slave but don't want to take the transmission to replace it in a day, probably can't do by myself in a day anyway.
This is a 04 Ranger FX4 4.0 FWD. I know that is a little redundant but in case someone doesn't know what the FX4 is.

 

[RonD]

Make sure to remove the Air Bladder(black cup) thats inside the clutch fluid reservoir
Then put in some fluid if its low

No need to "power bleed" clutch system
Put a pan down and open the slave bleeder and you should get some fluid flow, just gravity flow

When clutch pedal is up the clutch master and reservoir are connected, so fluid can flow out of the reservoir and down to the slave and out the bleeder just by gravity, because bleeder is at the top of the slave any air should come out first
(same is true for brakes, just FYI)
Reservoir is NOT air tight, it has a vented cap same as brake master, this allows fluid to flow out to replace lost fluid
The "air bladder" is in the reservoir to reduce air contact with the fluid which will absorb moisture from the air and then start to degrade.

The reservoir and master are cut off as soon as master's piston moves down, even a bit, this allows pressure to build up and fluid to be transferred to slave under pressure

Because of the clutch master's angle air can get trapped in it, best method is to remove master from firewall and point it down any air should bubble up in reservoir


If bleeder is now leaking its possible you got some debris on the bleeder screw so it can no longer seal, remove it again and clean it and the seat inside
You will have a slow gravity bleed while its out, make sure reservoir is topped up

 

[Mike92STX]

It has just a drip coming out even with the bleeder out and I even got a new bleeder that was a little longer. I didn't think the length would matter. I'm afraid I did something that damaged whatever the bleeder seats against. If I push on the pedal, it squirts out the bleeder like it wasn't screwed in tight, but it is.

 

[RonD]

Squirts out the bleeder or threads around the bleeder?

Bleeder valve usually looks like this: https://qph.cf2.quoracdn.net/main-qimg-328444587233f1dfe30a18e0d00f0f36-lq

Cone at the bottom seals against reverse taper in the fitting

The angles must match to get a good seal
The hole is how the fluid gets into the center of bleeder and comes out the end nipple

There are non-tapered and tapered fittings, like these: https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=473988&d=1541912379

Overtightening bleeder can cause it to leak, snug is all that's needed

You can just put in a bolt with some sealant on the threads to replace the bleeder valve, need to match threads
It will work fine for the life of the clutch disc and slave
You shouldn't have to bleed the system unless there are other issues

 

[Mike92STX]

Well, the bolt didn't work so we gave up and are going to replace the slave. I work for NAPA so I can get a discount but the slave they have doesn't have the rubber boot around the spring and the base looks like plastic. They had a Sachs that was special order, so I assumed it would be better, but it has more plastic than the NAPA slave. The Sachs slave had the rubber boot, but it didn't come with a bearing on it. My son has my truck apart so I would like to get a good part ASAP. Can anyone tell who makes the best slave for a Ranger? When my son got the old slave out it looks like one of us (probably me) put the bleeder in wrong either cross threaded or just crooked, don't thing I would trust a repair on the threaded part of slave?

 

[Shran]

I usually use Luk parts... I really don't think the rubber boot matters. Maybe it does, but I have wrenched on a lot of crusty old slave cylinders with no boot that work fine.

I wouldn't trust a repair on that. Not worth pulling the trans again if it doesn't work. Often I have found that the bleeders get clogged up with dirt and oil and won't bleed out of the hole - if that is the case I just open it almost all the way and let it rip... it is messy as hell and you end up with fluid running down the inside of the bellhousing but it gets the job done. Prefer not to do it that way though.

 

[RonD]

I would agree, I have used LUK clutch parts over the years and have no complaints

 

[Mike92STX]

Shran, thanks for the quick response, I have the same opinion on the repair, way too much work to remove the trans to take a chance on the attempted repair. I'm probably going with the NAPA because of the best price. I'm going to check a Ford dealer just out of curiosity on the price and what it made of, so many are made of what looks like plastic.

 

[Mike92STX]

Well, I should have stayed away from the Ford dealer, their price is $80 and the had to order. The guy said it was OEM but admitted they aren't made by Ford. I decided to go back and get the NAPA slave but on the way there I had a motorcycle accident. OUCH, I got a couple minor cuts road rash and a big bruise on my right hip. Damage to motorcycle looked minor so I road it home but it wasn't running right. It's a 90 Goldwing and it has 2 timing belts on the front of the motor and one of the pulleys got broken and the belt came off. That motor has to stay in time because the pistons will hit the valves if it goes out too far. Bike probably not worth removing and rebuilding.

My son got the new slave in and trans back in and the old master connection doesn't fit anybody know why? I already ordered a new master because I couldn't find just the hose that goes between them.

 

[RonD]

There are two different Quick Disconnects, one uses a slide in fork to hold master hose to slave, then other has internal clips that hold master to slave, needs the "tool" to slide in to connector to remove it

This video shows both types:

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Just watched the video... the ones I've run across dont have the clip. And also dont have the shoulder on the plastic piece either. So I doubt I would be able to release it without the correct tool or a couple screwdrivers. However, I thought the vid did a great job explaining.

 

[Mike92STX]

There are two different Quick Disconnects, one uses a slide in fork to hold master hose to slave, then other has internal clips that hold master to slave, needs the "tool" to slide in to connector to remove it

This video shows both types:

Yes, we just found that out, now I have to replace the master or just the line, so they are the same. I'm guessing that they are switching from one to the other because the fitting with the clip is hard to find.

 

[RonD]

Yes the one with the clip was the older style

 

[Mike92STX]

Well i got a new clutch master and my son's installed it yesterday. Everything now works as it is supposed to and it now has the newer connector between the master and the slave. The shift lever is a little loose, so I have to tighten it up tomorrow. Is there a right way and a wrong way to tighten the nut on the double threaded shaft. I tried to tighten it up earlier with a wrench and it is still a little loose?

 

[RonD]

Good work

Thanks for posting "the FIX" it will help someone else down the road

For loose shifter have a read here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/shifter-bushing-replacement/

Most likely the bushings are worn out

MAKE SURE transmission is in NEUTRAL before pulling out the shifter base