An '84 BII that's in need of love.

[Hoosierman]

Thank you. While I was poking around, I don't know if it means much, but I tested continuity between the two large posts and the reading was 4.57. I don't know what kind of resistance is tolerated.

As I reply, the battery is showing 12.18 volts. It's a new battery from August and I did use a battery jumper just to see if it would make a difference- it didn't. I do have a charger I can put it on. Is 12.18 volts considered low for these vehicles?

 

[RobbieD]

Is 12.18 volts considered low for these vehicles?

Yes, that's too low. Off the top of my head, I'd like to be seeing closer to 12.6.

The starter draws a lot of amps; so it's not the battery voltage, as much as it is how many cranking amps it can supply upon the demand.

Please put a good charge on the battery; it'll likely save some tail-chasing and teeth gnashing.

 

[JoshT]

Like Robbie said, unless it's large gauge (4 minum) wire, it's going to be too small. I've used pliers, I've use a couple of large screw drivers or wrenches. If yo've got jumper cables that could work well, but the clamps are large so be careful about what they get close to.

12.18 is low, but with the new starter I'd still expect it to crank over decently. My old F-100 with the 390 FE will still crank well when the battery is below 12v, but that could be partially due to the high torque mini starter upgrade and partially to the engine being worn out.

Definitely wouldn't hurt to charge it back up to full and eliminate the possibility. Keeping it charged will also help prolong the life of the battery.

 

[Hoosierman]

Yes, that's too low. Off the top of my head, I'd like to be seeing closer to 12.6.

The starter draws a lot of amps; so it's not the battery voltage, as much as it is how many cranking amps it can supply upon the demand.

Please put a good charge on the battery; it'll likely save some tail-chasing and teeth gnashing.

I will charge th

Like Robbie said, unless it's large gauge (4 minum) wire, it's going to be too small. I've used pliers, I've use a couple of large screw drivers or wrenches. If yo've got jumper cables that could work well, but the clamps are large so be careful about what they get close to.

12.18 is low, but with the new starter I'd still expect it to crank over decently. My old F-100 with the 390 FE will still crank well when the battery is below 12v, but that could be partially due to the high torque mini starter upgrade and partially to the engine being worn out.

Definitely wouldn't hurt to charge it back up to full and eliminate the possibility. Keeping it charged will also help prolong the life of the battery.

I will follow this advice and put the battery on a charger over night.

I took some more pictures, I will see if there are electrical diagrams on here. For now I have these, I found this red tube, it looks like it's for vacuum? I don't know quiet where it terminated but the tube appears to go under the block. Also I have SEVERAL connectors that are just dangling freely...

 

[JoshT]

Hopefully I can help with a little of this. I have no idea about your vacuum lines. I don't have an EVTM for the 1984, but the one I have for 85 is woefully inadequate for the vacuum system.

The first two pictures. I see something in the 85 Ranger EVTM on the right inner fender called a "temperature compensation pump" in one figure and a "temperature compensated accelerator pump" in the 2.8L engine control wire diagram. The picture of the item int he figure looks like the connector could be a match. The diagram shows the connector having a red (R) wire, and an orange/white (O/W) wire.

If you look at the vacuum diagrams that Jim posted in the tech library, you'll find this image. Link for reference: Ford Ranger Engine Vacuum Hose Diagrams

Some of the abbreviations for reference:
TCP = Temperature Compensated Accelerator Pump
VRESER = Vacuum Reservoir
SOL V = Solenoid Valve

So this Pump, or solenoid valve also has a vacuum component. The vacuum is also connected into the Thermicator system (DUMP & DIVERT solenoids) and EGR system. All of these solenoid valves are located on that fender. Wouldn't surprise me if things started failing/breaking and they tried bypassing/deleting them.

^^ I'm almost certain that both connectors in this picture are related to onboard self test. The red connector is definitely for self tests, it's labeled as C1984 in the 85 EVTM.

I seem to recall that the gray was used for self tests too, and it looks like C1985 in the EVTM, but I can't find it in the 2.8L engine diagram. All of that diagonstics stuff was long gone from my 84, so I'm recalling info from threads about general diagnostics on the older Rangers.

There is also a C134 near the same location that does show up in the 2.8L engine diagram. The C134 connector looks similar in drawings and is tied into the AC system.

The 85 manual shows C1985 as having a white/red dotted (W/R D) wire, and C134 as having a black/yellow dotted (B/Y) wire.

LAST MINUTE EDIT: On closer inspection, there are two of those single wire connectors in the picture. Maybe both are there. In the figures, C1985 is closer to the red C1984 connector.

^^ Not sure. Again all of this stuff was gone from my 84 2.8L and it was converted to Holley carburetor back in the 80s. In the 85 EVTM I'm showing a single wire connector that would have gone to a "Carburetor Float Bowl Vent Solenoid". If I'm reading the picture right it would have been in that general area. It shows the connector labeled C14 as being black in color and having a red/yellow hashed (R/Y H) wire.

 

[JoshT]

Just a thought, maybe you can get with @bshun to swap some pictures. He posted some in the electrical subforum and it looks like his 83 model 2.8L is pretty clean and intact with all of the factory stuff in that area. Comparing photos may help you to figure out what may be missing or where stuff is supposed to go.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Some vehicles had a dryer vent like thing from the factory that connected to the air cleaner and pulled warm air from around the exhaust manifolds. A preheater of sorts for intake air. Kind of back asswards from cold air making more power, but it was a thing that they did. Maybe to combat carb icing and reduce warmup time in the cold weather?

Yup, it was to preheat and help the engine warm up faster. There was a flapper valve in the tube from behind the headlight to the air filter box that the “dryer hose” connected to and that valve was controlled by engine vacuum and a thermal valve on the lid of the airbox, so as the vehicle warmed up the valves would close.

Problem is, after all these years, there’s usually just random fragments of the system left.

 

[Hoosierman]

Thank you all for your responses so far.

I let the battery charge a few days. 13.67 volts and the truck gives me one little click when I try to turn it over. No cranking at all... How likely is it that the remanned starter I put in it last weekend is no good?

EDIT: I just realized that when I put the new starter on, I had only one cable going to it, from the solenoid. Isn't there supposed to be some sort of ground for it?

 

[SenorNoob]

Grounds through the transmission/engine., but there is usually a smaller wire too. That may not apply to 84 however.

Can you check voltage at the starter? And again while trying to start?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Thank you all for your responses so far.

I let the battery charge a few days. 13.67 volts and the truck gives me one little click when I try to turn it over. No cranking at all... How likely is it that the remanned starter I put in it last weekend is no good?

EDIT: I just realized that when I put the new starter on, I had only one cable going to it, from the solenoid. Isn't there supposed to be some sort of ground for it?

That really sounds like a connection issue on the heavy ground OR positive wire. Go thru all your connections and check tightness. A voltage drop test can really help.

 

[Hoosierman]

That really sounds like a connection issue on the heavy ground OR positive wire. Go thru all your connections and check tightness. A voltage drop test can really help.

I had to stop for the time being because it's raining but I agree it sounds like it is electrical in nature. Here is what I have done:

After I charged the battery, I put on brand new milspec terminal connectors that have been dressed, I of coursed dressed and cleaned the battery terminals. I ran a 4ga wire with a lug connector from positive to solenoid, and 4 ga wires with lugs from the battery to the frame below and to the back of the solenoid, grounding the battery to the frame and the body. I ran out of time to do the rest of the ground replacements, I have been thoroughly cleaning the ground points and using Ox-Gard. I know how important grounding is, and I intend to add a few more grounds just to be sure of it. Lessons learned from previous projects of course...

I will check voltage at the starter as soon as I can.

 

[RobbieD]

. . . 4 ga wires with lugs from the battery to the frame below and to the back of the solenoid, grounding the battery to the frame and the body. I ran out of time to do the rest of the ground replacements . . .

The next thing to do, is to address the battery negative post to the engine block cable and it's connections. On the earlier trucks, the big battery grounding cable starts at the battery negative post, goes through an eyelet bolted to the frame, and then continues on to bolt to the engine block.

I agree with @alwaysFlOoReD; you have the classic symptoms of a main cables connection issue. Any weak spot in the current path (positive OR negative) will overheat fast when a huge surge of amps comes through (like when starting) and when it overheats it shuts down as a conductor and won't pass any current until it cools. That's why you get the "one little click".

And parts in general are crap these days. It could very well be a bad reman starter, but you won't know for sure until you have ALL of the main cables in a proven serviceable condition.

Keep beating on it; that horse ain't dead yet.

 

[Hoosierman]

Will add a negative cable from battery to engine block, and I will add a block to firewall cable. I suppose for good measure I might as well add a trans-body cable. Unless the rain stops, It may wait until next weekend.

Question, can these be converted to the mini starter setup like the older Ford's often can? Is that recommended at all? I'm not implying I will necessarily do the conversion if that is the case, it's something to keep in mind.

EDIT: Battery reads 12.78 at the terminals. While I had someone turnt he key, I proved at a mounting bolt and the connector on the starter and it reads a whipping, earth shattering ground shaking, ear splitting 1.38 volts.......

 

[SenorNoob]

Well, the 84 Bronco 2 with 2.8 uses the same starter as an 88 Ranger with 2.9 and the 91 Ranger with a 2.9. I know for a fact that a factory "mini" starter from a 91 Explorer 4.0 with automatic transmission mates up to the 88 2.9 manual flywheel. So I'm going to say the same stater will work for you. Here's the RockAuto cross reference from one of those:

FORD	AEROSTAR	1990-1996
FORD	EXPLORER	1991-1996
FORD	RANGER	1990-1996
MAZDA	B4000	1994-1997
MAZDA	NAVAJO	1991-1994

Anything in the list WITH AN Automatic transmission, should bolt up. Then it's just becomes a matter of changing the wiring to suit

 

[Hoosierman]

Thank you very much. I haven't touched the truck in a few days, I have been doing routine maintenance on other vehicles away from work.

I guess I should have asked earlier if it truly is recommended to just replace the solenoid with the starter? I wonder if this is one of those cases that just because I get the click when I turn the key doesn't mean the solenoid is actually working fully.