An '84 BII that's in need of love.

[Hoosierman]

Just leave it for the time being. Your first focus is to see if you can get the engine to start and run, and see if the truck is drivable.



I seriously doubt that you will be able to get all of the original engine management system restored, and working correctly. The computer-controlled carburetor, the solenoids and sensors it used, barely worked right when these trucks were new. Some of the parts are now almost impossible to find.

I'm hoping that you'll get lucky, and find that it will run, or make what's there run decent enough to make the truck a runner. So that it can at least be driven and enjoyed.

Honestly, the best thing that you can do, is to read up on the Duraspark conversion, and start actively looking for the parts that you'll need, to do just that.

When I first got my '84 Ranger 2.8 in 2004, I was determined to keep it stock, and make the original stuff work. I even bought the Ford training book for the 2.8. That was a fool's errand; it was a crappy management system design to begin with, and with the age and lack of parts I was just jousting windmills.

I Durasparked it, and never looked back. It was like a completely new truck.

But again, I'm hoping that luck is with you, and you can get what's there at least drivable.

As it stands, I'm fairly certain I will perform the Duraspark conversion. I'm more about that than I am a V8 swap, and I love a good V8 as much as the next guy.

I really only get to tinker around with the toys on weekends, but I think I will start with investigating the NSS and putting in a new Fuel Pump since I have one that came with the truck.

 

[Hoosierman]

Okay here's a weird one. A PO attempted to spray paint the entire with black paint. I mean, I removed it from a door sticker, but the doors were spray painted matte black, the dash and steel were painted matte black, the interior plastic panels were spray painted matte black, even the rear vinyl (I'm assuming vinyl) seats that were one blue were spray painted matte black.

The original silver Bronco II emblems were spray painted matte black.

The original metal black Bronco horse emblems were painted metallic violet.

What would be recommended to remove the paint from these plastics and the vinyl seats? I know I can use lacquer thinner on the metals apparently, but I want to avoid damaging perfectly good plastics that were painted over. Thanks.

 

[JoshT]

It's not quite the same, but Alex on the YouTube channel LegitStreetCars did a video on removing paint from a leather or vinyl car seat. I think it was house paint in his case, but might get similar results with spray paint. It's been a few years, so I don't recall what he found to work the best.

 

[Hoosierman]

I looked up what you mentioned and I will give it a try on the seat. Whatever works, I'll be sure to report back here.

Are the Bronco IIs know for electrical or specifically any grounding issues? I've had to put in a lot of time at the office the last two weeks so I haven't had much time to deal with the non-start. But only sometimes the truck will crank a little, however most of the time when I try to start it, the lights come on in the dash but there's nothing, not even a click as if I had a battery issue. I got pretty used to resolving electrical issues on my two Jeeps and even on the '88 Ranger. I have a remanned starter I can try, the starter solenoid makes a click whenever the key is turned too.

 

[MaicoDoug]

That transistor pack failed regularly on my '83. Conveniently mounted underneath the distributor. EEC-IV ignition system. Mechanical lifters, so...you know. That's a hot rod V6! Congrats on a very cool ride! Pls keep in touch & let us know hows it going.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

The original engine management; the carburetor was controlled by the PCM, and all the sensors and actuators involved means that 40 years on, it's a lost cause to try and work with the original management system (which wasn't great when new). Parts are hard to find, but the Duraspark conversion eliminates all of that, and basically turns the 2.8 into an old-school motor. I like the 2.8; my '84 has been a reliable, stout runner (it's Durasparked). There's articles in the tech section, and tons of posts that be searched out on the Duraspark conversion.

The only other weak area (I see) is if it's an auto, an '85 will have the very first year of the A4LD. It it works, great, but these are problematic transmissions. A manual conversion would much more reliable, and much more fun. I *think* that a later, and better, M5OD could be used.

If, as you say, the bones look good and the pans have already been done, it sounds like a good "save" candidate.

B2s are a blast to drive, and a good example of a first-year B2 will only increase in value.

Toonces would drive the hell out of it . . . just not very well. And if the truck's been sitting that long, take some wasp spray, or honey, in case you run into the Killer Bees.

His won’t have the A4LD. Probably a C3 or C4 or something. No overdrive but an arguably ok transmission. I think the A4LD started with the 2.9 motor.

Bottom line, if I hook up a battery to the thing, I know I should reasonably expect it to at least do something.
Is the M5OD the 5-speed that went into the Rangers? My '88 is a 5-speed. Just curious.

If it sat for three years, should I expect to have to make replacements in the fuel system? I realize that gasoline varnishes over time...

Your 88 likely has a FM-145 or FM-146, think it was the introduction of the 4.0 that brought about the M5OD, which aside from the rubber plugs in the shift rails, was arguably the best manual transmission that was put in the Ranger. But the FM-146 in my Choptop has done well and tolerated a bit of abuse, so it’s not really a bad transmission.

Gasoline can gum things up. If there wasn’t any bad leaks in the system, you should be ok with dumping some dry gas in and injector cleaner with some fresh gas and replace the fuel filter. Replace the fuel filter again after a few thousand miles and some more cleaner run through.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

That I can do.

I've been going through the engine bay trying to solve what severed connections go to where and I have this one that is a bit of a mystery to me. Behind the front grille is this sort of twin square containers with a hose that leads to nowhere on this truck. What the heck is this even supposed to be?

That is the Charcoal or Evap canister. It’s supposed to be connected to a vent on the top of the gas tank and to an electrically controlled valve and over to the intake. Not sure how that would exactly look on a 2.8, but it’s to control fuel fumes, so arguably a good idea to figure out how to hook back up.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

As it stands, I'm fairly certain I will perform the Duraspark conversion. I'm more about that than I am a V8 swap, and I love a good V8 as much as the next guy.

I really only get to tinker around with the toys on weekends, but I think I will start with investigating the NSS and putting in a new Fuel Pump since I have one that came with the truck.

Probably not a bad idea to put a new fuel pump on. Definitely put a new fuel filter on to protect the pump.

I looked up what you mentioned and I will give it a try on the seat. Whatever works, I'll be sure to report back here.

Are the Bronco IIs know for electrical or specifically any grounding issues? I've had to put in a lot of time at the office the last two weeks so I haven't had much time to deal with the non-start. But only sometimes the truck will crank a little, however most of the time when I try to start it, the lights come on in the dash but there's nothing, not even a click as if I had a battery issue. I got pretty used to resolving electrical issues on my two Jeeps and even on the '88 Ranger. I have a remanned starter I can try, the starter solenoid makes a click whenever the key is turned too.

All vehicles can have grounding issues. No idea if yours would be the same as the 2.9 models I‘ve messed with, but usually the main ground gets corroded. It has a mid line splice to the frame then to the block. I usually replace it with two 4 gauge wires, one to the frame and one to the block. Use dielectric grease or No-Alox to prevent corrosion.

 

[Jim Oaks]

These 2.8's will run forever. They have a timing gear, not a chain. The rubber vslve seals can go bad on them and make rhem smoke, but that's an easy fix.

The TFI Is problematic. Probably why it's not running. A new module is about $60. You can replace it with a Duraspark and regular carb. The transmission is probably a C5. You don't want an A4LD.

 

[Hoosierman]

I'm hard at work (taking a break) on the truck. Currently I have the mechanical fuel pump off (wasn't that bad, but I also have 60 years of tools that were left to me), and I am deeply confused about something here that I have tried to find the answer to.

Haynes (the only manual I have) doesn't help one solid bit.

I have the pushrod in and greased. Gasket is ready to go, what the heck am I supposed to do about the pushrod? I can't get the fuel pump to fit against the block. Haynes says nothing about it, the instructions of the Delphi pump say something about a lever. Will someone please explain to me why I cannot get this mechanical fuel pump to go onto the black like I'm a 5 year old? What little I can find makes little sense to me at all. Thank you.

 

[RobbieD]

It's been many moons since I've done a mechanical pump, but if memory serves (no warranty on that one) the pushrod should line up with, and then depress the pump's lever as you fully seat the pump to the block. The lever (or "finger") on the pump is spring loaded; you should be able to press it inwards to the pump (might need some spinach, though).

 

[Hoosierman]

It's been many moons since I've done a mechanical pump, but if memory serves (no warranty on that one) the pushrod should line up with, and then depress the pump's lever as you fully seat the pump to the block. The lever (or "finger") on the pump is spring loaded; you should be able to press it inwards to the pump (might need some spinach, though).

I ran out of daylight.

I.was already low on daylight, so I tore open the old one, saw the spring, and decided to just bolt it on as you suggested and it worked. Except the gasket, with RTV silicone on both sides, somehow slipped out out of the lower end when I was lining it up. Took it off a third time, the upper bolt disappeared and so did my 10mm socket.....

I can't tell you how livid I was. And it goes beyond that, this should have been done yesterday so if something happened, I had today to correct the issue. But yesterday was completely gobbled up... Now I have to wait another week and I wasted a gasket.

But yeah, I bolted the pump on a little on each side at a time to keep it even and it actually matched up quite well in the end.

 

[RobbieD]

I hate it, too, when nothing goes right. The best thing to do, is just walk away from it, and go back to it later.

Put the new gasket on side or the other, and let the sealant dry before actually installing it. Then put sealant on the other surface and use the bolts to walk it home. And something tells me, that you've already thought of this, for the next round.

Hang in there; a B2 is well worth the angst.

 

[Hoosierman]

I hate it, too, when nothing goes right. The best thing to do, is just walk away from it, and go back to it later.

Put the new gasket on side or the other, and let the sealant dry before actually installing it. Then put sealant on the other surface and use the bolts to walk it home. And something tells me, that you've already thought of this, for the next round.

Hang in there; a B2 is well worth the angst.

Yeah, to be clear, losing a 10mm socket happens to the best of us, hell I was considering switching the bolts out to an Allen head. The irritation more comes from something totally unrelated that wasted my entire yesterday lol.

Of all the brands I've owned, Ford is probably my favorite to drive, but least favorite to work on- and that's saying something when I currently own a Landrover.

 

[Hoosierman]

The new mechanical pump is on. Got the new fuel filter at the carb. So here's what happens.

I got it to start twice, and it ran so long as my foot was on the pedal. Now the most I get is a single crank when I turn the key *sometimes*. I pulled the line out of the filter to see if the pump was at least sending fuel and it seems like the carb is getting fuel now.

What would be the next logical step to take? Thanks.