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alwaysFlOoReD's race truck


alwaysFlOoReD

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I thought I would share my build of my '91 stx ranger. This is my first attempt at anything this involved. This is condensed, copied and pasted from FordRanger.net. Thanks to everyone [especially sloue] at FR.net If you have suggestions or comments, please feel free to post them here or there as I learn along the way. I hope this will inspire others to try to build their own.
Richard
Editing for money and time spent;
Time ~ 204 hrs
Parts;
'90 stx ranger ~ C$200
'87 stx highrider ranger [flat of beer] ~ C$45 C$245

safety related

cage - pro built C$2000 C$2,245
driving suit - new C$345 C$2,590
helmet - new C$145 C$2,735
alum. seats-used (2) C$300 C$3,035
window net - new C$50 C$3,085
fuel cell - new C$200 C$3,285
fuel cell - a/n fittings C$105 C$3,390
fuel cell - low pressure pump C$105 C$3,495
5 point harness - used C$25 C$3,520
master kill switch + elec. misc. C$75 C$3,595
50' 2/0 wire (used jumper cables-homemade) C$25 C$3,620
______________________________________________________

truck related

rebuilt calipers and pads C$90 C$3,710
shocks - 6 pr used - traded for one aluminum seat (C$150) C$3,710
mig wire C$70 C$3,780
shock mounting C$50 C$3,830
grade 8 bolts, etc. C$50 C$3,880
wd-40, zip discs C$35 C$3,915
fan belt C$30 C$3,945
rad flush + fluid C$30 C$3,975
sandblasting frame C$75 C$4,050
tube 1"x1"x10' C$10 C$4,060
brake flex line C$80 C$4,170
brake hose flex line - f-150 C$20 C$4,190
brake fluid, fuel inj. cleaner, misc. C$20 C$4,210
brake hose 60" hard line, hose locks C$15 C$4,225
sway bar bushing kit C$25 C$4,250
oil pressure switch, oil filter, vacuum caps C$20 C$4,270
elec. solder,fuses, misc. elec. C$40 C$4,310
misc. hose and wire clamps C$25 C$4,335
self-etching primer C$90 C$4,425
fuel; line, filters and menders C$45 C$4,470
fire ext., air filter, bulbs C$35 C$4,505
spark plugs, wires, and MORE filters C$105 C$4,610
anti fatigue mat for seat C$15 C$4,625
wire C$5 C$4,630
29" 8.50/15 tsl's mounted and balanced C$500 C$5,130
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« on: February 02, 2010, 07:18:42 PM »

Hey all.
Right now I have for parts/race-truck;
1) 86 ranger ext cab 2wd 2.9 auto -good body -motor toast -rebuilt trans
2) 87 stx ranger reg cab 2.9 auto d-28/7.5 4.10 gears -motor gone
3) 90 reg cab 4.0 standard d-35 8.8 3.73 gears (roll-over) -running o-k
4) 91 reg cab 2.9 stan. d-35 8.8 unknown gears -running o-k,
5) 91 exploder 4.0 stan d-35 8.8 unknown gears -running good -rebuilt trans -(roll-over)
Various other 2wd rangers pre 90
85 b-II play toy + 3 parts b-IIs
My thinking is to keep the center of gravity as low as possible-thus no lift if possible.The stx came with a 2" lift from the factory. The 90 was in a roll-over so the frame may be bent.
So, my thinking,no lift; use the 91,swap in the 4.0 and trans from the exploder, and the 3.73 from the 90.
with lift; use the 87, swap in the 4.0 and trans from the exploder, keep the gears.
Yours thoughts?
Thanks
Richard
p.s. starting this weekend, pics to follow.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #7 on: February 05, 2010, 01:44:10 AM »

Started on it today.
I'm using the 87 stx ranger. Its being built for short course off road racing. Sooo, anyways, I got the bed off. Aprox. 2 hrs working and 3 hrs trying to find tools. the stx comes from the factory with a 2" suspension lift and this one has a 2" body lift as well. The body lift will be taken off for a lower center of gravity. Offers? The rear comes w/ 4.10 l/s. I wish it was open cause I can make an open into a l/s cheaper than rebuilding a l/s. STXnSTONES; think the name is any good or too obvious? More pics----
Later, Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I paid a flat of beer for the truck:yahoo:. Hey, I thought I would show my lack of knowledge. I haven't taken a real close look but it seems the fenders and rad support are welded to the cab.I need to know if I can get rid of some or all of the inner fender? I need to lose as much weight as I can:icon_rofl:, my truck, that is. I will be cutting the floor and inner fenders out of the box as well. Door skins and all glass is going, as well as the rear portion of the cab( easier to weld in cage w/ door bars). Any other places you can think of?
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #13 on: February 06, 2010, 07:33:29 PM »

Part of the deal for getting a cage built and installed is me documenting the time and cost (which I would have done anyway). So here goes. I picked this truck cause it was the most suitable out of all my trucks. It's 4x4 but most people seem to build 2x4, maybe cause less frontal weight and not often needing 4x4 in the desert racing.This truck is being built for short course off road truck racing.

The truck; '87 ford ranger stx ( factory 2" suspension lift) 2.9 (gone) auto (unknown shape) front; d-28 w/ 4.10 rear; 7.5" w/ 4.10 l/s. The truck is in fairly good shape with the usual rust - most of it would get cut out anyway.
cost; a flat of beer ~ $45.00 cdn
Borrowed truck and flatdeck and 4 hrs to tow home.
cost; owe a favor
Day 1)
Unbolt gas tank fill hole. Unbolt taillights, un hook wiring from box. Remove 6 bed bolts, I had to grind off the 2 closest to the bed. realized I should spray all nuts and bolts with w-40 :shok: remove box; 2 hrs
look for tools;3 hrs
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Day 2
Planning; 1/2 hr
Wire brush where box was/spray bolts w/ w-d40 :),remove lights and grill, spray bumper bolts w/ w-d40 :). try removing bumper bolts- the grinder is your friend :D.remove wiring in engine bay.remove passenger seat and 3 of 4 bolts on drivers seat, more w-d40 :) the grinder will be my friend again, if I can get at the bolt head. remove wiper motor;2 1/2 hrs
Pondering/scratching head; 1 hr
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4WD
Hey, sloue and BADINTEN, thanks for the input. I checked that site, good info but it never mentioned solid mounting the cab. That's why I want ALL input. I've already thought of another reason for solid mounting the cab - lower center of gravity = quicker corners.Can I get rid of the rubber and not put anything back? I'll look tomorrow but input is welcomed. Any other ideas that I can incorporate would be great, thanks in advance. If I have time I might channel the body, I'll have to see how feasible that is.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Day 3

Removed cab chrome (finally figured out how to use tool after wrecking 1 piece), remove drivers seat (the grinder is my friend again on 3 of 4 bolts),door panels, dash pad , instrument cluster, all glass, inner door skins (metal), and rug; 6 hrs

Inner door skin removed

Rust

Salvage/garbage pile

Passenger seat with electric lumbar support and (never seen before, how rare is this?) adjustable thigh support and extend-able leg support.


Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #28 on: February 11, 2010, 02:23:09 AM »
I checked one of my other trucks and it had the same seats minus the adjustable thigh supports.
Yes, too much cancer. I've changed my mind again;

It's a '90 ranger stx that was in a roll-over ( didn't even realize it was a stx till today, other wise I probably would have used it right away), with a 4.0l, 5-speed, electric transfer case, 3.73 l/s, auto hubs, 114" w.b., and no rust.:)
I've made plans to cut the tops off the two trucks and put the good one on the '90. I measured down from the drip rail 10" and taped the cut line on the door and a-pillar

Then swapped the doors onto the '90

And marked both of the back of the cabs to cut at the body line. one cab 3/4" higher than the other so it slides in from the top

Hope that made sense.
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2010, 11:21:51 AM »

Hey all,
Got the roof cut off.

My buddy figures I shouldn't put the other roof on 'cause of lack of head room, I need 3" between helmet and top of cab. I'm 6'3". I would prefer to put top of cab on but I'll see; need to research this.
With no cab top;
Pros :
less weight
headroom
less work

Cons:
looks

Seems this stx doesn't have factory lift:sad:. I guess its just a badge and/or a trim package after '87/'88, who knows?
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Quote from: alwaysFlOoReD on February 16, 2010, 10:22:39 AM
I'm thinking of a way I can bolt it on and off- best of both worlds- if the cage doesn't interfere.
"Richard
sounds cool but , IMO i want that weld together and welded to the cage. bolt it up and roll what keeping the roof plier from tearing out and stabbing you in the face. i raced some round round and have built a couple cars and rolled them YOU WANT THAT CAB ATTACHED TO THE CAGE once the cage is attached to the frame. Wink a car with an improper cage is more dangerous than one with out.just add a inch or so in the pilers to bring it all up to fit you. they did it for waltrip.and thats how we always started a race car was by cutting the roof off then welding it back . sorry my 2 cent again ." - quoted from sloue on FR.net
Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #40 on: February 18, 2010, 11:01:27 AM »
Hey everybody, thanks for the input.
I'll be checking with the cage guy before anything is finalized (thanks, sloue). I forgot to say that there would be metal being attached to the top of the cage if I don't use the cab top.

Day 4+5+6
Getting dash out- pita,
sit and think, removing air cond. unit (in one piece- no loss of freon),
sit and think, remove cruise, sit and think, remove e-brake from cab, sit and think, remove sound deadener, sit and think- head hurting-too much thinking-time to quit for awhile :beer:. total time - 12.5 hrs, wd-40 cost $5.00

Next I will be sorting through the wiring and getting rid of non-essentials. Maybe one of you can tell me what systems I need to keep to keep truck running good, eg. I know I need o-2 sensor and all sensors on engine(?).
Any help appreciated.
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Re: alwaysFlOoReD's race truck
« Reply #43 on: February 23, 2010, 12:16:00 AM
Day 7
Removed in cab harnesses; seat belt, cargo light stock speaker, transfer case and black box behind drivers seat.
Removed; wiring and relays for off road lights through fire wall, air conditioner/heater harness through fire wall, cruise control wiring from engine bay.
Unwrap wiring from passenger side to drivers side in engine bay.
4.5 hrs
Day 8
Figuring out wiring; it would have helped if I had marked what each terminal was for with masking tape while I was unplugging them, so that I knew which wires had to stay or go. I ended up replugging them in so I knew which was what, and then marking and unplugging again:annoyed: Live and learn.
Sprayed all the bolts on the frame with wd-40 again. I busted 2 of the 6 cab mount bolts and re-found the rusted cab mount. It may not be too bad- I'll see.
2.5 hrs
Next time I plan on seeing if I can mount the cab with out rubbers.......... I'm a sick man:D Also will cut off the other cab roof and figure out how to mount it temporarily. And remove the gas tank, and figure out how to hook up a jerry-can so I can still move the truck. I'm hoping that the high pressure pump will work sucking out of a jerry-can with out the low pressure pump. I've been looking for a used fuel cell, no luck so far.
Richard
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Make / Model
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Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Day 8 + 9
Cut roof off donor, finished removing cab bolts

Thinking about doing-1 3/4 hrs, doing 3/4 hrs. Used 2 zip discs. Cost $2.00
Temp. attach cab top. Used 1" (?) angle iron in the a-pillar, drilled and tapped for 5/16 X 18 bolt. Broke my tap on the last hole Angry I will weld a nut on the backside if I use the cab top.

Top attached

Later,
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Good idea Badinten. I'd love to do either of those ideas ( I have both, a B-II and a 88 f-150. How did you know ? ) but the rules say " the use of a commercially manufactured fuel cell with a bladder inside a steel container...... is mandatory " so I'm looking for a used one, also a fire suit and helmet. I have already; seats( 2 used for $125.00), harnesses( 2 used for $50.00), halon fire extinguisher( yard sale find - didn't know it was halon* till later - $10.00)
Richard
*halon is best - no residue left to clean but expensive.

Day 10
Discussed possible stumbling blocks about lowering body to frame with Chuck ( friend with experience and the track owner/developer ). Main conclusion is to watch as I lower for interference; rad to fan, steering column,tranny/transfer case linkages.
Chuck has idea to mount fan shroud to motor with flex coupling between shroud and rad, I might cut shroud in 1/2 vertically and glue or rivet rubber between the two. This is to prevent the fan from hitting the shroud and toasting the rad. Another idea I had is mount the engine with out rubber mounts or limit the movement with straps or chain or cable.
I have 2" lift kit pucks? (not sure of the term) that I can cut to what ever height I need. One thing that concerns me is having room to work on tranny/transfer case, anybody have some thoughts ? The '87 has a different style tranny cross member, it seems lower than the '91 and has rubbers at the outside of the frame, maybe I'll use that.
Bought fan belt; $30.00, Rad flush(2) + fluid; $30.00. Also toasted 4.5" grinder:annoyed: but it was cheap $20.00 :D
Richard
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Location
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'91, '80, '06
Make / Model
Ford, GMC,Dodge
Engine Size
4.0,4.0,5.7
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Day 11
Removed rotten frame mount from '91 and got good one from '87. Used 1 zip disc.

Piddled around trying to get the old rubber out.
Anyone know of an easy way?:dunno: I tried a zip disc, it sorta worked.

I spent a couple hours getting my pressure washer running. Seems I forgot where I put the hose adapter last fall so I ended up taking two trips to the Home Ripoff Depot to make one up. I put the washer in the back of the truck and then forgot to check the fittings before I left the store Roll Eyes, hence two trips. Didn't get to use it cause it was dark by the time I got back :annoyed:. Oh well.

Richard
 

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