Alternator clicking noise 2.3L SOHC

[EnzoSZ]

Hello guys,

I've try to find a solution to my problem in the search section but it seem like I haven't find ahah

I come to you because few days ago my batterie died, one hour of road left, and it started by less power on the lights, almost not lights to be honest, I pulled over, look at my gauge and it was on Low for the batterie. Well I stopped the engine and obviously it doesn't start again.
After an hour and half trip on tow truck i'm back home. I remove the batterie and find some liquid, which seem to go out of the batterie and it smell bad.
Bought a new batterie few days later, install it and I found that my alternator doesn't do his job anymore, and there's a clicking noise (Video's on!)

I try to remember if it was there before but i'm pretty sure not, the noise is new.

It doesn't really sound like a bad bearing.

Does anyone had the same thing?
I know that a new alternator is more expensive than the repair kit for alternator but I don't really know what's the problem.

Sorry for the book I wrote just to ask "Is my alternator dead?" ahah!

Thanks

 

[ericbphoto]

To be sure, remove the belt and spin the alternator by hand to see if it makes that noise and to feel if it rotates smoothly or rough.

But it really sounds like you need a new alternator.

 

[RonD]

Things to check
Does the battery Light on the dash come on when key is ON and engine is OFF?
If not then check fuse 15 in CAB fuse box, this is the ON/OFF switch for alternator so very important

If Battery light comes on with key on, does it go OFF when engine starts?
If not then alternator is not working, Battery light on means power is coming FROM the battery not going TO the battery(recharging it)

Do you have a Volt Meter, or can you borrow one?

Charging systems are very easy to diagnose with a Volt Meter

Key off
Test battery voltage, should be 12.8volts with new battery
12.3 to 12.8 volts is acceptable battery voltage

Start engine
Test battery volts again, should be 14.5-14.9volts now
If still 12.8v or less then alternator is not working, so battery is being drained with engine on

Shut off engine/key
Test B+ wire on the back of the alternator, the bigger wire one on the Stud, you do not have to unhook it, should be 12.8volts, same as Battery volts, if not then a Fusible Link is bad, its on the starter relay post with the positive battery cable

Unplug the 2 or 3 wire connector on alternator
Test Yellow wire, should have 12.8volts, if not a Fuse is blown in engine fuse box, fuse 17 maybe

Test Green wire, should be 0 volts
Turn key on
Test green wire again, should be 12.8v, if not fuse in Cab is blown, fuse 15

If all the wires test OK, and Battery voltage is not above 14volts with engine running, then replace alternator

 

[EnzoSZ]

I'll check tomorrow, night's already here ahah

Oh yeah I didn't mentioned, but I've checked the battery voltage.

Engine off: 12.3v
Engine on: 12.3 and less so yes the alternator doesn't work.

I'll check for the fuse, alternator wire and connector tomorrow! Thanks for that!

I think I'll start to look for an alternator in EU, it will cost me ass skin (not sure if you use this expression ) if it come from the US ahaha

 

[RonD]

Also check for places/shops that rebuild electric motors, they often rebuild starters and alternators, all the same stuff

 

[EnzoSZ]

If the noise is a bearing it's an easy fix, and for the electrical parts it's generally not too hard to change. I can do that, but I think the alternator is the stock one so 25yo

I'll see tomorrow when I'll check what you explain!

 

[Uncle Gump]

it will cost me ass skin (not sure if you use this expression ) if it come from the US ahaha

I've never used that term before... but I just might start.

 

[Josh B]

Hahaha, I do like your translator

 

[EnzoSZ]

Ahahah! Litterally translate french to english "Peau du cul"
It also work with the balls skins when it's even more expensive

Always a pleasure to share our good expressions

 

[EnzoSZ]

Well!
I've checked everything, without the belt, it rotate smoothly but I'm now sure that the noise come from it.
I've checked all the wires, fuse, all are good.
But my battery's still at +- 12V when engine running. I had a sweet 14V but it drop off at 12 few seconds later.

I don't know what's the best option now. Find a rebuilt kit with coal and regulator, with possibly some bearing, or a brand new alternator?...

 

[RonD]

If the bearings sound OK and there is no wobble on the shaft then try just replacing the regulator and brushes

Video here on how to do that:

 

[EnzoSZ]

I know it's not difficult, but the little clicking noise we can hear in my video, it doesn't seem to be a bad bearing. It actually rotate smoothly. I think the noise come from a little part inside (a wire or some cooper idk).
I'll try to open it and see what's my best option.
In term of price, for me with the shipping there's not a big difference between the rebuild parts and the brand new alternator ^^ So I think i'll go for the new one, keep the old one on the shelf and restore it!

 

[RonD]

The tick/click is one of the brushes which is why is no longer works

 

[EnzoSZ]

Well I've finally find the parts.. Why do I have bought an american car? ahah
Everything cost me twice

 

[Josh B]

Think of it this way Enzo, you still have us

Shipping has long been a problem here also. I remember when the foreign manufacturers were getting a foothold here, one of the primary complaints was having to wait 3 months for a part.

If you can do Spanish you may find better rates out of Mexico(or maybe even Canada) (I cannot at all fully endorse this route as I've never actually tried it, although I did get the idea from someone who had) here is an Autozone link https://www.autozone.com.mx/ (mexico)
Canada doesn't show a lot but I saw this thread that might give you a start for Canada https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/autozone-canadian-equivalent.262165/