Already bled?

[Fryedbm]

So this would be an incorrect statement "Just replaced master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly."

Replacing the Master was a good thing to try, easiest thing to do
But you WILL need to replace the slave, pressure plate and clutch disc now

Use a self adjusting pressure plate(SAC) not a "regular" pressure plate

Do not use a clutch disc that mentions anything about "racing", lol, they are made of softer material so they get "sticky", and grip better when hot, but wear out in 1/2 the time of a regular clutch disc

Sorry I am brand new at this stuff. Was just reading what the packing slip said.
Having a hard time finding a SAC without getting a kit with stuff you did not mention. Any suggestions on where to get exactly what you said. I have checked Rockauto,1A, and carports.com as well as AutoZone.

 

[Fryedbm]

So this would be an incorrect statement "Just replaced master cylinder and slave cylinder assembly."

Replacing the Master was a good thing to try, easiest thing to do
But you WILL need to replace the slave, pressure plate and clutch disc now

Use a self adjusting pressure plate(SAC) not a "regular" pressure plate

Do not use a clutch disc that mentions anything about "racing", lol, they are made of softer material so they get "sticky", and grip better when hot, but wear out in 1/2 the time of a regular clutch disc

Ok. Is this what I need? (See pics) Anything else? Remember I am brand new at this!! Lol

 

[RonD]

There are two different clutch sizes
In 1999 Ranger there is the 2.5l and 3.0l engine model
And the 4.0l engine model

Not sure which engine you have

I prefer LUK brand clutches, but not required

You need:
pressure plate and clutch disc, self adjusting is best
Slave with attached throwout bearing<<90% come with throwout bearing attached
Pilot bearing, small bearing that sits in center of fly wheel, and not expensive
Those are the new parts

When transmission is pulled back or out, you want to give the flywheel a good look, run your hand over the flat surface, there should be no ridges, should be "smooth as glass", same as a brake rotor surface
Some discoloration is OK but its a judgement call, discoloration is because flywheel got HOT because clutch was slipping

You can pull off the flywheel and have it surfaced, or replace it
If you do decide to pull off the flywheel then I would also replace the Rear Main Seal, this is an inexpensive seal that prevents engine oil from SQUIRTING OUT of the rear main crank bearing, if this seal fails/leaks then when engine is running it will pump out QUARTS of oil in a few minutes
And its hard to get to if that happens, so..................if you are there already why not replace it

If you have a local auto parts store, and the cash, then you can get new flywheel and rear main seal to have on hand when replacing the clutch
Then return both if your current flywheel is OK

 

[Fryedbm]

There are two different clutch sizes
In 1999 Ranger there is the 2.5l and 3.0l engine model
And the 4.0l engine model

Not sure which engine you have

I prefer LUK brand clutches, but not required

You need:
pressure plate and clutch disc, self adjusting is best
Slave with attached throwout bearing<<90% come with throwout bearing attached
Pilot bearing, small bearing that sits in center of fly wheel, and not expensive
Those are the new parts

When transmission is pulled back or out, you want to give the flywheel a good look, run your hand over the flat surface, there should be no ridges, should be "smooth as glass", same as a brake rotor surface
Some discoloration is OK but its a judgement call, discoloration is because flywheel got HOT because clutch was slipping

You can pull off the flywheel and have it surfaced, or replace it
If you do decide to pull off the flywheel then I would also replace the Rear Main Seal, this is an inexpensive seal that prevents engine oil from SQUIRTING OUT of the rear main crank bearing, if this seal fails/leaks then when engine is running it will pump out QUARTS of oil in a few minutes
And its hard to get to if that happens, so..................if you are there already why not replace it

If you have a local auto parts store, and the cash, then you can get new flywheel and rear main seal to have on hand when replacing the clutch
Then return both if your current flywheel is OK

Ok Ron. Wow that's alot!!! Lol. Ty so much.

 

[Fryedbm]

There are two different clutch sizes
In 1999 Ranger there is the 2.5l and 3.0l engine model
And the 4.0l engine model

Not sure which engine you have

I prefer LUK brand clutches, but not required

You need:
pressure plate and clutch disc, self adjusting is best
Slave with attached throwout bearing<<90% come with throwout bearing attached
Pilot bearing, small bearing that sits in center of fly wheel, and not expensive
Those are the new parts

When transmission is pulled back or out, you want to give the flywheel a good look, run your hand over the flat surface, there should be no ridges, should be "smooth as glass", same as a brake rotor surface
Some discoloration is OK but its a judgement call, discoloration is because flywheel got HOT because clutch was slipping

You can pull off the flywheel and have it surfaced, or replace it
If you do decide to pull off the flywheel then I would also replace the Rear Main Seal, this is an inexpensive seal that prevents engine oil from SQUIRTING OUT of the rear main crank bearing, if this seal fails/leaks then when engine is running it will pump out QUARTS of oil in a few minutes
And its hard to get to if that happens, so..................if you are there already why not replace it

If you have a local auto parts store, and the cash, then you can get new flywheel and rear main seal to have on hand when replacing the clutch
Then return both if your current flywheel is OK

That clutch kit says say "all necessary pilots" do I have everything I need here? The fly wheel and rear seal I will look at once I am in there.

 

[RonD]

LUK 07140 fits 2.3l/2.5l or 3.0l Ranger engine, NOT 4.0l engine
Kit shows it has a self adjusting pressure plate and clutch disc and pilot bearing with alignment tool

LUK LSC003B shows correct slave with throwout bearing attached, for 1993 and up Rangers


Slave will not be prefilled
So after its in, open the bleeder, remove reservoir cap and air bladder
THEN hook up the master and let it Gravity bleed, put a pan under bleeder, and keep an eye on reservoir, don't let it run dry
Shouldn't take more than 2 minute before just fluid is coming out of the bleeder, then close it off

 

[Fryedbm]

LUK 07140 fits 2.3l/2.5l or 3.0l Ranger engine, NOT 4.0l engine
Kit shows it has a self adjusting pressure plate and clutch disc and pilot bearing with alignment tool

LUK LSC003B shows correct slave with throwout bearing attached, for 1993 and up Rangers


Slave will not be prefilled
So after its in, open the bleeder, remove reservoir cap and air bladder
THEN hook up the master and let it Gravity bleed, put a pan under bleeder, and keep an eye on reservoir, don't let it run dry
Shouldn't take more than 2 minute before just fluid is coming out of the bleeder, then close it off

Ok. So sounds like I should go ahead and order these. Thanks bro!

 

[Fryedbm]

LUK 07140 fits 2.3l/2.5l or 3.0l Ranger engine, NOT 4.0l engine
Kit shows it has a self adjusting pressure plate and clutch disc and pilot bearing with alignment tool

LUK LSC003B shows correct slave with throwout bearing attached, for 1993 and up Rangers


Slave will not be prefilled
So after its in, open the bleeder, remove reservoir cap and air bladder
THEN hook up the master and let it Gravity bleed, put a pan under bleeder, and keep an eye on reservoir, don't let it run dry
Shouldn't take more than 2 minute before just fluid is coming out of the bleeder, then close it off

This may be a stupid question but do I need to drain my transmission before I drop it?

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you have a plug for the tailshaft after removing the driveshaft... no

If you don't have the plug.... It will be less messy if you drain it.

 

[Fryedbm]

If you have a plug for the tailshaft after removing the driveshaft... no

If you don't have the plug.... It will be less messy if you drain it.

Ok. Thanx man!

 

[Eddo Rogue]

yep, some of come pre filled and ready to go, you probably got one of those.

 

[Fryedbm]

LUK 07140 fits 2.3l/2.5l or 3.0l Ranger engine, NOT 4.0l engine
Kit shows it has a self adjusting pressure plate and clutch disc and pilot bearing with alignment tool

LUK LSC003B shows correct slave with throwout bearing attached, for 1993 and up Rangers


Slave will not be prefilled
So after its in, open the bleeder, remove reservoir cap and air bladder
THEN hook up the master and let it Gravity bleed, put a pan under bleeder, and keep an eye on reservoir, don't let it run dry
Shouldn't take more than 2 minute before just fluid is coming out of the bleeder, then close it off

I gotta say I am quite surprised this LUK slave is plastic

 

[scotts90ranger]

All slaves are plastic on these...

Did you say the clutch disengages when you push the pedal about 2"? That's completely normal, what's the problem? Is it slipping when trying to accelerate? I'm confused, but I did just skim through the clutch component talk above...

 

[Fryedbm]

All slaves are plastic on these...

Did you say the clutch disengages when you push the pedal about 2"? That's completely normal, what's the problem? Is it slipping when trying to accelerate? I'm confused, but I did just skim through the clutch component talk above...

When I push the clutch to the floor it does not begin to engage until I have almost completely released it. Hopefully that explains it better.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Yeah, it should engage about 2" from the resting position of the pedal, it is how hydraulic clutches should be I believe, most cable clutches I've driven release closer to the floor, but the hydraulic clutch on my F350 with a ZF 5 speed releases soon similar to both my Rangers. When the friction business of the clutch is warn out they disengage as soon as you move the pedal and slip if you are in a low gear and floor it up a hill. When there is a hydraulic issue normally the clutch won't disengage at all even with the pedal at the floor.