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All of a sudden codes: 121,522,629,and 566 HELP!


roadrunner76

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Engine loafing like it has a cam! Any ideas? Thanks
 
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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

It would be good to include your definitions with the code numbers, just so we are on the same page
Here are the ones I have, from this page: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/3digitcodes.shtml

121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
522 (O) Park/Neutral Position (PNP) or Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) circuit fault - PNP
566 (O) transmission 3/4 shift solenoid/circuit - Transmissions
629 (O,M) Torque Converter Clutch circuit fault - Transmissions

So 566 and 629 are for Automatic Transmissions ONLY?
Your profile says Manual trans?

If you do have a manual trans then you will need to pull out the computer and open it up and have a look at the circuit board
Picture of it here: http://www.auto-diagnostics.info/ford_eec_iv

The 3 blue cylinders are capacitors, these will fail after 20+ years and leak, easy to replace, under $5 in parts
You can usually see leakage
But have a look around for corrosion anywhere on either side of the circuit board

Code 522 wouldn't cause engine issues, more of a nuisance code, but can cause starter motor not to active using the key

The only code that "might" effect engine operation is 121, but wouldn't effect it as you describe, might have sluggish acceleration but would run fine once at speed

In a 1994 4.0l spark is done by a separate module, EDIS-6
Computer controls the fuel system, injectors and fuel mix

Symptom reads like a fuel issue which is why you should check the computer
Just to take it off the table, when did you last get gas?
Easy to get bad gas, too much water in it, takes about 1 day to notice it, hard to get a good running engine with water added, lol
 

roadrunner76

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I will definitely check the computer thank you guys for all your help! I don't understand while I'm getting transmission codes when I have a manual transmission
 

roadrunner76

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I change TP sensor. Also I disconnected the negative on the battery. How long will it take for this to reset itself? I have driven it 10 miles plus. Symptoms driving: 55 in 5th gear and it will all of a sudden start jerking. If that helps any.
 

roadrunner76

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Actually blew up this capacitor. I have to order me one. Thank you very much RonD!
 

RonD

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Good work

I would change all 3, as they will all fail with age

They are capacitors so have a + and - side
You need to match the uF, like 16uF, exactly

But Voltage can be a higher rating, if it has 50v you can use 100v, if 16v then 50v is OK, so higher voltage rating is fine


The white speckles you see are from a coating that's sprayed on to the circuit board after its assembled to seal it
Obviously clean up the circuit board using electronics cleaner or isopropyl alcohol, to remove the shorts the capacitor corrosion caused
 
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roadrunner76

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One of them is a 47 microfarad does that sound right?
 

roadrunner76

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cant find a + or - on the blue cap, but I do on the replacements. Is there some other way to tell?
 

RonD

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Black stripe is the "-" side/pin

Your first picture shows the "-" side on each capacitor, the black stripe

Yes I think there were 16uF, 47uF(maybe 2 of these) and maybe a 10uF

There were different values in different years

As said the voltage on the replacement can be higher but not lower, so 63v can be replaced with 100v
 

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