Adjusting Timing

[The Fox]

Adjusting Timing +++ New IAC Question

Okay, I have be unable to find how how to adjust the timing on the 2.9L. Me and my dad spent an hour looking at how to adjust the timing. I have hunted over the internet and have not found a thing on it. Does the distributor rotate like a 351, or does it have to be done some other way?
Nick

 

[gertsdsbs]

theres a bolt on the backside of the distributor in the transmission. Loosen it and you can move it right or left.

 

[BlackBII]

Yup. Dizzy rotates.

13mm bolt holding the dizzy down, loosen it and turn her whichever way ya need.

Don't remove said bolt, the dizzy can 'pop' out and you'll be scratchin yer head wondering wtf happened to your timing.
(I know that from experience )

 

[The Fox]

I found that bolt, but it is such a bitch to get to me and my dad were like this can't be it.
Thanks
Nick

 

[BlackBII]

It's it...

I have a 13mm wrench that I cut in half that I use on that bolt, so that it clears the firewall. It is easy to get to with your right arm from the drivers side.

 

[cocoasranger]

I think you need to pull the spout connector to get a true reading (without advance) when you adjust the distributor. Otherwise it will bounce all over the place when you shine your timing light on the marks.

 

[gertsdsbs]

Yeah! remove spout connector and time it to 10 degrees. once done reinstall conector.

 

[The Fox]

Which connector is that? I remember hearing something that it is the one that goes to the coil from the dizzy.


Also, just something that has bugged me. I cleaned out the IAC with throttle body cleaner(spray can type), as it was dirty. I use almost a whole can to get it cleanish. Well, a few mins after I did that, the truck was running okay, then it began to surge and was almost impossible to drive. I reved the motor to 5000rpm for a second and it has not surged at low RPM(under 2500). Now, at exactly 2500RPM the tack jumps up and down by 100-300rpm while it is in gear, but the truck does not really feel any different. If I let it go for a little while it will then start to feel like it is surging. I normally shift at around 2600RPM on this truck, so this is always at the end of a gear when it does. I am thinking that there still might be some cleaner inside the valve causing this. I am going to take it off tomorrow and get it fully cleaned in a ultrasonic washer with warm soapy water to clean it again. What do you guys think?
Nick

 

[sjr53]

You should see a pair of yellow wires coming out of the split loom on the passenger side of upper intake near the IAC valve that has a pull apart connector on the end of the wires. That is the Spout connector.

 

[gertsdsbs]

you probably need a new gasket. happened to me

 

[The Fox]

Thing about a new gasket, when I took the old one off, it just fell apart. I did not have a replacement with me, so I just used Formagasket sealer to make one. I will get a new one when I go to the parts store tomorrow for a few bucks while I am getting oil.
Nick

 

[JTH1972]

Yeah! remove spout connector and time it to 10 degrees. once done reinstall conector.

The tech pages was suggesting 12 deg. Does it make that much of a difference?

 

[gertsdsbs]

Mines 10 and it does make that much of a difference, oh well. I have a 1986 ford ranger 4WD 2.9 6cylinder so maybe they are different. Yup it's definitely a new gasket. I took mine off fell apart to and tried to mickey mouse it but didn't work. Put a new one in and it works great. Heres the picture of the spout connector and my engine.

http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc351/gertsdsbs/spout002.jpg
http://i527.photobucket.com/albums/cc351/gertsdsbs/spout001.jpg

 

[The Fox]

Thanks for the pics. I was wondering what the hell that was.

Anyways, I got a new IAC with a gasket and it is still doing it. I went to a friend who is my mechanic to have a new front seal put in because mine is leaking. He said to try a different gas because I normally run mid grade gas in it, but my dad used the truck and filled it up with regular. Odd thing is that for the first 200 or so RPM that it is jumping around, you can feel almost nothing. But after that you feel it a lot. I am wondering how the hell it id jumping around that much since the engine is locked to the wheels with the clutch. Makes me thing it could be something with the tack and/or coil.
Nick

 

[cocoasranger]

As lazy as I am, what I would do is pull the spout connector and shine a timing light on the pulley marks without fooling with the distributor hold down. If it shows 10 degrees you are home free and don't have to screw with it. If it's off you have found at least part of your problem and you won't feel too bad about messing with the bolt.