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2.3L ('83-'97) Add a crank sensor to an '85 block

frozenrabbit

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Can a crank sensor be added to an '85 2.3l block?
Have a worn out '94 Ranger with 370k, but have a line on a hopped up '85 block.
Are there mounting holes on a '85 the crank sensor bracket can mount to?
I'm running an '84 head, on a '94 block. port blended to a '90-'91 intake. 8 plug to 4 plug back yard conversion.
 
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RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

No, front of engine is different, no crank sensor bungs

1983-1988
1989-1994
1995-1997
1998-2001(2.5l version)

3 different, not interchangeable 2.3ls

Might be able to run the 1988 in the 1994 as a 1988 setup, with distributor
 

frozenrabbit

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Thinking I can fabricate something that mounts to the lower timing cover bolt holes, maybe. Don't really want to go to a distributor.
I am currently running an '84 head, on a '94 block. Swapped roller cam to '84 head, and port blended a '90-'91 intake, D port to oval port. 4 plug runner now. Not 'ideal', but works, had to keep second coil pack connected for tach to work.
Would a distributor even work with '94 fuel injection?
Rebuild head on a tired bottom end.
 
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RonD

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People have done 1995-2001 block conversion to 1989-1994 hall effect crank sensors

Haven't read of 1983-1988 to hall effect conversion, crank needs the same nose to mount the vane wheel, and it needs to be pretty accurate alignment for spark timing

You have the 1994 to use as a template
 

scotts90ranger

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Swapping to a '89-94 crank sensor on an older block isn't hard, I've done it twice... I literally just made a cardboard template off of a newer block (take a hole punch and put that hole around the alignment pin for the crank sensor mount, then line up the outer front seal housing holes in the block then mark the crank sensor bracket holes), transfer the holes, take a 6mm bolt with a long shoulder, cut the head off and drill/tap the block for that and loctite that bolt in. Then once you get the newer style front seal housing in place you'll notice that one hole doesn't line up right, mark that and slot the hole so you can get a bolt in...

The real trick on the pre '86 blocks is the oil pan gasket, the older blocks have a trough in the rear main cap, the aluminum oil pans have the trough in the oil pan... What worked best for me was to cut up a brake clean can, make a mold then melt a stick of lead that just fits in the rear man cap then massage it to fit with hammers and files...
 

frozenrabbit

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That doesn't sound too involved, within my skills, and have tools to do that. Wasn't sure about the oil pan, but knew there was some difference, haven't torn into it all yet.
Is there a difference in the crank snout?
 
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scotts90ranger

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You have to shorten the crank bolt some likely but that's it.

The front and rear areas of the oil pan sealing surface are slightly different but switching to the newer front seal housing fixes that (and filling in the rear bearing cap like I mentioned...), there are a couple holes in the oil pan that will need to be enlarged to 8mm instead of 6mm but everything lines up. I'm assuming you were planning on using the aluminum pan. There's a chance you might need to use a newer oil pump on the older block to clear the oil pan, I did with the turbocoupe block and the Ranger oil pan, just used the Ranger oil pump...

There were some changes over the years near the distributor area, I've had to drill and tap the third hole for the power steering bracket... This hole goes through to the aux shaft area, the crank sensor holes you'll be drilling go into the crankcase as well so clean up after doing that...

That's all I can think of, just make a good and accurate template for the crank sensor, I used thin cardboard like beer box or cereal box, punched the one pin hole, pushed a pencil point (or center punch, pick your poison, just push hard enough to get a sharp indent from the block hole into the cardboard) hard into the outer front seal housing bolt holes so you get far out references for accuracy
 

frozenrabbit

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Thanks for the tips.
 

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