muwaha
Member
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2020
- Messages
- 88
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 8
- Location
- Hazel Green, AL
- Vehicle Year
- 1991
- Make / Model
- Ranger XLT
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hi All,
So I have a 1991 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 2WD and I am trying to improvise on the AC Control Knob.
The knob itself (that turns the blower on) is basically crumbling into pieces.
I figure I just do a little upgrade to a 4 port switch.
The issue is this though, I have a wire that goes into this knob that is Blue/White and this wire is not showing on any of the diagrams (Google or my Chilton Manual), but for the blower to engage on the settings (Low, Med, High) this blue/white wire has to be crossed with the wires that do the knob settings (orange/black, red/yellow, etc).
Is there anyone that is a tad more familiar with the wiring and could help me investigate where this blue/white comes from?
I thought of running a hot wire straight from the batter, but I'm that would cause damage, seeing that when the key is in the "On" position, the blue/white wire kicks to ~1.2mv, while the other wires (black/orange, red/yellow) kick to 12V.
The picture attach is how my unit should look.. The knob itself is what breaking. The rest of the unit is fine.
So I have a 1991 Ford Ranger 3.0 V6 2WD and I am trying to improvise on the AC Control Knob.
The knob itself (that turns the blower on) is basically crumbling into pieces.
I figure I just do a little upgrade to a 4 port switch.
The issue is this though, I have a wire that goes into this knob that is Blue/White and this wire is not showing on any of the diagrams (Google or my Chilton Manual), but for the blower to engage on the settings (Low, Med, High) this blue/white wire has to be crossed with the wires that do the knob settings (orange/black, red/yellow, etc).
Is there anyone that is a tad more familiar with the wiring and could help me investigate where this blue/white comes from?
I thought of running a hot wire straight from the batter, but I'm that would cause damage, seeing that when the key is in the "On" position, the blue/white wire kicks to ~1.2mv, while the other wires (black/orange, red/yellow) kick to 12V.
The picture attach is how my unit should look.. The knob itself is what breaking. The rest of the unit is fine.