A way to keep my lift but gain a smoother ride?

[JJMaine]

Thanks Eric, that doesn't seem to bad, I'm sure I can get it done in a day

Thanks for the tool info as well Uncle Gump, if I can't find one to rent anywhere I have no problem buying one. I'd rather buy a tool before I pay a stranger to work on my stuff. Are you using the Rough Country 1.5" keys? It looks like Ford doesn't sell the "prekeys" anywhere. I'd like to get those if anyone knows where I can buy them or just get the same keys you are running.

 

[2011Supercab]

It doesn't matter if you use the factory 2011 keys and crank them to maximum or use 2" lift keys and crank them to minimum.

The torsion bars will still have the same amount of twist in them to get to the same height/lift giving the same ride.

 

[ericbphoto]

I'm not an expert on that style of front end setup.

But on the rear, I would;
1. Flip the shackles around so the flat side us pointed rearward. Even though you will see in the picture that mine are oriented the same as yours.
2. Replace the bushings. Usually the bushings have flat flanges that will fit snugly between the sides of the shackles.
3. If you want the rear lowered, put the spring bolt through the upper set of holes on the shackle and put the head of the bolt toward the inner side of the shackle. Orienting the bolt properly will give extra clearance. Having the shackle flipped around to face the other way will give more room for sprung and shackle to clear each other when heavily loaded.

 

[JJMaine]

I'm trying to figure out how much lift I have now to see if I only have a 2" lift in the front. It seems like a 2" lift should be no big deal but I don't know why I have the torsion keys backed out so far and still my axles are at such a steep angle?

Uncle Gumps truck has 1.5" keys and his axles look almost parallel to the ground. It appears I have 1-2" lift shackles in the back so the rear as it is now is lifted 2" and if the front sits 2" lower than the rear from the factory, then that would mean my front is lifted 4" to be level with the rear?

Thanks again Eric, I will definitely look into doing those things.

I think I need to just install some 1.5" keys so I have a KNOWN starting point to work with.

I'm going to email Rancho as well and confirm that my shocks are the correct length for a lifted truck. Rock Auto says that the Rancho Rs5229 (what I have) fit a Ranger w/ 0" of front lift. They show a different model of Ranchos that says they fit a Ranger with 1-2.5" lift

 

[JoshT]

You will never get the torsion keys out unless you have the torsion bar tool unloading tool. I own this one but there are cheaper units out there.

OTC 7826 Torsion Bar Tool for Ford Truck https://a.co/d/8jyvaM8

I have done it with a jack and an extension, after the lower control arm was disconnected from the shock and sway bar. Wasn't my smartest move, vut can be done.

I have done it with the C-clamp syle rental tool from the auto parts store a couple of times. It's reall made for GMCs, but can work on the Ranger if you're really careful.

I've read that it can be done with a strong two jaw puller, never tried it and would be wary of thhe jaw slipping under load.

I finally bought the tool thatGump posted a few weeks ago and used it the last time and was worth every penny. If you're going to buy one, get the one he posted, a lot of the others apparently aren't wide enough to wrap around that crossmember without a fair bit of grinder action on the crossmember.

It appears I actually have a little more room to drop the torsion keys (about 1/4" on passenger side and 1/2" on driver's side) I may take them down more just to try it but I don't like the idea of having them so close to fully backed out and also the adjustment bolts are hanging down quite far.

Given how much preload is on those bars, you should be ok to completely remove the bolt and let the key rest on the adjuster block. Lots of guys have done that when lowering a torsion bar Ranger. Another thing that they've done it to remove and flip the key upside down for less angle. Don't know if it would work with those keys and I'd probablt try to find the right keys first.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks! I really appreciate all of you guys help. I’m starting to grasp how these work. Believe it or not, before I bought this truck, I had never heard of torsion bars

I do want to change to the 1.5” keys because I just feel like something is off. It seems like my truck is lifted too much for just 2” keys backed off most of the way. Is it possible that whoever installed them, indexed them wrong? If so, how will I know how to index the new keys that I install?

I also confirmed that it has the wrong length Ranchos in the front. He put stock length shocks on it and Im guessing thats why it rides horribly. I have not checked the rear to see if they are correct for the lift but I think I will just order those at the same time since those are fairly inexpensive.

So, 1.5” keys, the Otc torsion bar tool and front and rear shocks will be on order tomorrow. Then I’ll have a million questions on how to install.. Thanks again guys!

 

[JoshT]

It looks like Ford doesn't sell the "prekeys" anywhere. I'd like to get those if anyone knows where I can buy them or just get the same keys you are running.

Ford never listed them as pre-keys, the mod just got that name in Ranger groups because they were pre-08 keys.

You can still buy then new through Ford, you just have to look up the part for a 1998-2007 Ranger. To make it easy here's the part number, F57Z-5B328-B, and a link to Ford Parts Giant that lists them in stock. You don't have to use stock, but that is the P/N for future reference. Sounds like you've settled on the 1.5s to coppy Gump and its not a bad plan, but keep in mind that every truck can be different.

 

[JoshT]

Is it possible that whoever installed them, indexed them wrong? If so, how will I know how to index the new keys that I install?

I doubt it, but anything is possible. When in removed and installed my keys there was really only one position they would install and come close to working, and it was pretty obvious when looking at the truck with the suspension and bar hanging there. IIRC it was pretty much in line with the angle of the control arm itself.

Here's how I did my keys.***

1) Jack up front of truck with frame on stands, remove wheels and tires.
2) Disconnect shock (you're replacing anyway) and antisway bar, let lower control arm droop completely. Pop upper ball joint out if necessary.
3) Remove torsion adjuster cover plate, and install removal tool
4) Use torsion adjuster tool to remove pressure from adjuster bolt, remove bolt, and remove adjuster block. (may have to run key up more with removal tool to clear block)
5) Back removal tool off until no pressure and remove tool.
6) Knock key off, might be stuck pretty good.
7) **skip several steps because I was removing control arm**
8) Install new torsion key on bar and reverse proceeding steps.

Honestly not knowing what was done previously, when you get to step two, it might not hurt to loosen (not remove) the control arm mounting bolts. When you get the suspension reassembled and set where you want, retorque the bolts so you know the bushings are relaxed at ride height. Just make sure you remember to tighten them up before you hit the road.

***Disclamer: I may be forgetting something. It was several weeks ago, I've done a bunch since, and I'm tired.

 

[JJMaine]

Thanks Josh, I may just go with the 1.5” keys but I appreciate the info. I was searching for Ford torsion keys and nothing came up.

Can anyone confirm how much the front of my truck is lifted? I measured as gump showed me and got 5 7/8” but is there anyone with 32” tires that can give me a measurement from the ground to the fender so I have a known starting point when installing the new keys? With a 1.5” lift, how far should my fender be off the ground?

I don’t have a stock setup to compare to so I have no clue on how many turns to go in with the new keys and also both sides seem to be turned in different amounts now to level my truck side to side.

I ordered the shocks and will be ordering the keys and tool so I can tackle it this weekend hopefully.

 

[superj]

If you are measuring the point from the control arm to the frame, you have your measurement versus the factory setting. That is where all the measuring is done to make the ride better.


If i remember, i can measure my fender but i have 30s so you will have to add .75 (since yours are 31.xx). When i di my torsion bar adjustment, i used the factory points and set it at what the book said to set it at

 

[Uncle Gump]

@JJMaine

I'm thinking that you already have lift keys and are unhappy. I'm not sure that buying another set of lift keys is the answer for you. I'm thinking you should just get a set of the 98 to 07 factory keys...

These trucks are funny in that what works for one... may not work out exactly the same for another.

When I set my torsion bars I went with 6 inches. That's 1 1/2 inches over the stock setting.

I ran my 265 75 16's for a couple years with the factory stuff. The early factory keys should give you plenty of room to clear your current tires.

My truck with factory keys and 265 75 16's... at factory settings.

 

[MaicoDoug]

JJ,

Your title is a very good one, pls do not change it. It says a whole lot and is a great induction for realization of how & why. Someone took your truck, did what they thought would look good in a picture, and then quit. In reality of all the hows & whys is the actual reason why we're all here. And why TRS is such a success. Everyone wants the "stance" and hardly anyone wants their girlfriend to be scared as hell when she wants to borrow it and then drives it for the first time.

The Rancho RS55374 is the one. I have 2 of these, with only 1500 miles on them, The boots look new as the shock is too. If you want, their yours if you pay shipping from Texas. EDIT: Maybe $25. All the new bushings & hardware included. My front end was modified w/ coilovers and no longer need them. These are the adjustable type. See the pics below.

Working on grass? Sheesh....Plywood, dry, new, stacked & thick. Maybe an inflated tire of two under the front A frame. Down east style you know! We here are glad to hear that you want to learn and safely do your own work, there is a whole bunch of satisfaction waiting for those sorts you know.

My stock 2007 Level II keys- I'd have to keep searching for. If I find them you can have those too, but maybe there gone. I'll keep looking. Also later today I'm going to give you my measurement after a 1.5" front lift with 31.6" tires from the underside of the fender lip to the ground.

 

[JJMaine]

So my truck is only lifted as much as yours uncle gump? Not sure why my axles look so different to yours. Thats why Im so confused but maybe its just the angle of my pictures but all of my front suspension parts look like they are at too steep an angle.

Wouldn't the pre keys be the same equivalent as 1.5” lift keys? Or do they offer less lift at no crank than 1.5” keys?

I have ordered the 1.5” keys and the tool but can return them if I decide I dont want them.

I have a feeling that some of my harshness is coming from the front shocks as they are stock length with the lift.

Thank you Doug! I would have taken you up on this but I already ordered shocks from Rock Auto and they should be here tomorrow. Maybe I’ll try just putting the new shocks on and see if they fix my issue. I expect it to ride stiffer than my Ford Edge but not as bad as it is now. You are correct that the previous owner probably lifted it for looks and consequences be damned haha. The front was cranked up even higher when I bought it and it was downright dangerous on bumpy roads.

Note to self: next time I test drive a truck, find some bumps!

 

[superj]

they probably did do it for just looks.

when my uncle got the truck i have now, it was low. like really low. i drove it for him to put gas one time and commented on how it rides rough, like a wagon. well, the people before he had lowered it all the way to where the springs were on the bump stops.

maybe for looks, or maybe they were very short? the seat edge was worn through from sliding in and out and had a hole, which ih ad to sew up when i got the truck

 

[Uncle Gump]

The early keys and the RC lift keys are definitely different. I thought I had a picture of them but I can't find it right now.

Also like I said... what works for one truck doesn't work for another.

Remember... pictures are or can be deceiving. Try standing back a bit and get a picture the captures the entire front of the truck including axle shaft and control arm angles.

I'll try to get a picture of mine today if the rain let's up.