A way to keep my lift but gain a smoother ride?

[superj]

i have 30s on mine (at stock height) and soooo much room, i would think that 32s would fit (yours come out to 31.6 x 10.4). the only thing i would think might be an issue is rubbing when turning

 

[JoshT]

i would think that 32s would fit

@JJMaine is this correct, you have 32s? I may have overlooked it or it may be in your signature which I can't see on my phone.

You can definitely run 42s with the "pre-keys" and stock 2" lift block found on 07 and earlier trucks. I used to have that very setup on my 99 Ranger. No rubbing just took a mild torsion bar twist to match level the front to the rear. IIRC Dad was running a 32 equivalent on his 01 at stock height with mild rubbing. You might be able to do it with the 1.5" blocks too, but not sure.

 

[Uncle Gump]

this is definitely about as far as i would try...more then i would be comfortable with. at that height its gonna ride rough. like gump indicated there could also be shock bump but that looks like a higher travel shock.

lift knuckles and the high travel cv axles would be ideal for these situations.

I'm going to agree... that looks pretty much maxed out if the weight of the vehicle is fully on the suspension.

My truck with new 1750lb rear springs with a one inch lift shackles. The Rough Country lift keys and my factory t-bars which are the small diameter with 1 1/2 crank. It rides currently 265 75 16's.. It will get the large diameter t-bars I got from @MaicoDoug ... thanks again sir... and when that happens... I will likely go back to my factory keys... if i can get enough adjustment out of them. I kinda need the heavy t-bars due to the AOR bumper/skid plate. It's also getting a 10k winch. The heavy bars will handle the load much better.

I need to get a quality picture of my front suspension at ride height.

I'm not gonna lie... it rode better with all factory stuff. But where's the fun in that or making it your own... building it for what you want to do. So with that in mind... I chose to build it how I want it with the understanding I was gonna lose some of the cush.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Oh... and I like a little rake.

I'm too off center for level... and I can haull a load and be level... the way trucks were intended.

 

[JJMaine]

Yes I believe like superj said my tires are around 31.6”. That’s good to hear that I can go down quite a bit and keep my tires. Now to find some of the prekeys, and ‘07 lift blocks? The lift blocks are what is between the rear axle and leaf springs? I will need to go back to stock 2011 rear shackles correct?

My shackles are not original and I may message the previous owner and see if he has the original parts. I’m not even sure if he did the lift or he bought it like that I never asked. He bought the truck with 96,000 miles on it and sold it to me with 101,000 so he hadnt had it but a couple years. Thanks guys, this gives me some options and at least a direction to work towards.

I wouldnt mind a mild rake either Uncle Gump now that you mention it. It would probably help this winter when towing my snowmobile.

 

[Uncle Gump]

If I were you...

I'd get out there and use a tape measure to determine where you're at using the information i posted. Grab a couple tools and see if you can turn it down a bit more... inspect and ensure you have the shock spacers. Then see if it's better and good enough.

The rear... I would first ensure your leaf springs are in decent shape. If they're flat or negative arched at curb weight... they need replaced. Many times people will put a lift shackle on to compensate for weak springs. Being from a place that uses road salt... you really need to inspect your spring hangers... pretty common rot point. Also a lift shackle will offset the height of a lift block. Factory shackles are cheap so I wouldn't bother asking for the old ones. Lift shackles are typically more robust then the factory replacements.

 

[ericbphoto]

It looks like your shackles have another set of holes. Moving the spring to the upper holes may get the rear where you need it.

 

[JJMaine]

I will measure the height using the two points you referenced and will have to find out what the measurement is for stock ride height to compare.

If I turn the torsion bars down anymore then the keys will be sitting on the stops and the bolts will fall out. That's my problem. I just need to replace them I guess. Regardless of how much higher mine is than stock, it's too high and I need to lower it. I'll go out in a bit and check with a tape measure.

 

[bobbywalter]

so you are saying you are all of the way slacked off?

 

[JJMaine]

Another question. How hard is this stuff to do at home? I'd be working in the grass but I have all the necessary tools, jack, jack stands etc.

To remove the keys, do you guys just use a two jawed puller to push up on the keys to get the stops out? I saw that is how they recommend doing it in a 1A Auto video.

I can also try moving the bolts to the other position in the rear shackles as Eric suggests. Is that as easy as lifting the rear of the truck and taking the bolts out? Any advice is welcome, I'm willing to learn and enjoy working on my own stuff.

 

[JJMaine]

Yes one key a little more than the other but they are both pretty close to all the way backed off. Maybe 1/8" or so before the keys are resting on the block that the bolt threads into

 

[Uncle Gump]

You will never get the torsion keys out unless you have the torsion bar tool unloading tool. I own this one but there are cheaper units out there.

OTC 7826 Torsion Bar Tool for Ford Truck https://a.co/d/8jyvaM8

 

[Uncle Gump]

If you have the tool... they're pretty straight forward.

If you look at the second page I posted... the spec for front ride height is listed. But 5 inches between your two measurements is barely over the max factory soec.

 

[ericbphoto]

I can also try moving the bolts to the other position in the rear shackles as Eric suggests. Is that as easy as lifting the rear of the truck and taking the bolts out?

In theory, it is that easy. In practice, it may take some jiggling, juggling, prying and hammering.

I normally like to lift the frame to unload the suspension and put the frame In jack stands. Then put my floor jack under the differential to give me good control over the posiiion of the axle, springs and shackles. Sometimes have to find a sweet spot where the shackle is turned so he bolt clears other objects.

another way is to leave the wheels on the ground and just jack up the frame to the necessary position.

SAFETY !!! Chock the front wheels to prevent the truck from moving forward or back and coming off the jack or jack stands.

 

[JJMaine]

So I had to go to a parking lot to get a good measurement but measuring as you described Uncle Gumps, I got 5 7/8".

It appears I actually have a little more room to drop the torsion keys (about 1/4" on passenger side and 1/2" on driver's side) I may take them down more just to try it but I don't like the idea of having them so close to fully backed out and also the adjustment bolts are hanging down quite far.

Just snapped a few more photos with a better camera