A/C High Side Service Port Leak

[bilbo]

I had no AC in my 94 F250 today and noticed oily residue around the high side port. I haven’t driven it in a month or so but it worked fine then. After confirming all the refrigerant is gone with a gauge or getting it recovered if it isn’t, can I just replace that component or do I need to change any others like the dryer before evacuation and recharge?

I know it’s not a Ranger but the HVAC system components don’t seem too different model to model.

 

[4.0blue98]

I'd just change the Schrader valve or whatever you think is leaking and then pull a vacuum to confirm fix. If it holds then refill. If the system is original then wouldn't be a bad time to change at least the condenser. That seems to take a beating in most cases. I'm assuming the dryer is in the condenser.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

Id change the orifice tube. I believe rangers or fords of these years have orifice tubes. Its a cheap part and if its never been changed its not a bad thing along with a flush. If you pull it out and its got a lot of crud on it, you should really flush the Ac system.

 

[bilbo]

I'm guessing the system is original. I think the dryer is in the accumulator, at least they call it an accumulator/dryer in the manual. One of the guides I saw mentioned that any time the system is opened the dryer gets saturated with moisture and must be replaced. I'm not sure removal of the valve constitutes opening in their eyes. In my Ford manual it says that any time it's opened for longer than a "minor repair" it will need to be replaced. I'm going to start with the service valve and see how that goes. Now to find my gauge set in the boxes of crap I still haven't unpacked after moving...

 

[MISWFL]

Depends how long it's been open, which I doubt has been too long and that much could get past a failed Schrader valve. My big concern would be finding a good quality A/C Schrader valve and doing a good evacuation job with a strong vacuum pump. I'd replace both valves.

 

[txsleds]

Schrader valves do stick open. Remove the cap and blow it clean with compressed air. Now, squirt some WD40 on it and see if it bubbles. If so, gently tighten the valve and replace the cap.
Ford Parts here: Ford® A/C Repair Parts (Heating, Ventilation and Cooling System) - FordParts.com

Old hoses dry out and leak. First, check for leaks; Helpful video here:

 

[bilbo]

I looked at the service port yesterday and the high side looks like it has a ball in it, not the Schrader valve stem I expected to see. There was about 30psi in the system, and I tried poking it a bit to see if it would reseat but no joy. A soap test shows it's definitely leaking there. It was evening and the mosquito swarms were getting started so I didn't spend a lot of time with it last night. I've ordered one of the dye injectors to track down any other leaks before I take it in to have the refrigerant reclaimed.

 

[bilbo]

I've got a question. I went to pick up some UV dye at the local auto parts store and they only had oil/dye mix. I remember tiny bottles from my days working at Firestone of what I assumed were just pure dye. My truck calls for PAG46 oil, which they had. Is that going to work? I don't believe I've leaked an appreciable amount of oil. I've never really messed with air conditioning before so I don't want to unwittingly screw something up.

 

[bilbo]

Got everything working again. I ended up leaving the dye out. I figured holding vacuum means it isn’t leaking.